First ever build (GGG Rangemaster)

[roswell]

Hi everyone,

First of all, thanks. I've been lurking for over a year and have learned a lot from you all.

Just picked up my first kit, the rangemaster from GGG. Also treated myself to a new soldering station and am anxiously awaiting delivery (Hakko FX-888D).

Was at first disappointed that the box is "Made in China"; I was expecting a genuine Hammond box (unless Hammond's are made in China?). Anyway I hit it with 220 and it's fine, so the box is ok as far as I'm concerned. I'm happy with the kit!

I didn't do anything heroic with the sanding; 3 minutes tops I spent with it. Shined up nicely which I wasn't expecting. No mineral spirits on hand so washed it good with regular ivory soap prior to spraying. I'm letting it dry overnight following 3 light coats of primer; will go over it in the AM with 0000 steel wool and start the color coat.

This is fun and I'm already shopping for more boxes. Wondering where some of you source your enclosures?

[davent]

Welcome to the fun!

Hammond enclosures are Far East now, last batch i received were labelled Taiwan on the wrapper, before that had some with molded Made in EU and before that Made in Canada but that was years ago.

Best source for enclosures is going to depend are where in the world you are and maybe who you are already placing parts orders with.

dave

[GibsonGM]

Looking good so far!  Be sure to post pics of when it's done

Small Bear Electric has always been a good source for me, for enclosures and stompbox parts in general (stomp switches etc).   They're on the forum here, and contribute as well as sell.   
( smallbearelec.com )

Welcome to the forum!

[antonis]

I can't tell if BBQ grill has remained unpainted  but your work is definately professional...!!!

(although you could cover the lips of jacks housings with tape to avoid excesive sandpaper work after the final painting..)

[Buzz]

I haven't used the rustoleum brand of etch- primer myself, but I can chuck in some advice I have discovered through experimentation.

If you have a heat gun or hairdryer warm the enclosure up thoroughly before painting.

Gets rid of any residual moisture that may be on the surface of the enclosure. Spray while the enclosure is still warm.

Seems to make a better bond, especially with the dollar shop etch primer I use. Less prone to chipping off later.

YMMV.

[roswell]

New soldering station came today so I'm ready to dive in!

Going to breadboard the "Oh My Darling" rangemaster from Small Bear first, my first time using a breadboard. Waiting for warmer weather to finish painting the enclosure.

[roswell]

My original intent was a pristine perfect white gloss paint job. About a half dozen catastrophic mistakes later I ended up with this

[davent]

Nothing wrong with that! As far as enclosures, sometimes you just have to go where these things take you. You may want to distress the various  hardware bits to match the aesthetic. (Before mounting) I use a propane torch to heat and discolor any stainless steel parts and sandpaper followed by gunmetal bluing on the plunger cap of the stompswitch, microcrystaline conservators wax to seal and protect the distessed cap. Similar abuse for the knobs.
dave

edit:Went and torched a few bits after posting this and managed to melt a few stomp nuts, one was from an old 2pdt from Tayda and one was from a new batch of high end Alpha's from Small Bear. The melted Tayda had virtually no magnetic attraction, the Alpha, marginal, the successes were noticebly more magnetic... in any case watch out for the stomp switch nuts, mixed bag of materials being used. The Alpha appears quite different, looks cast, the Tayda did look similar to those that were successsful but no go.

[Buzz]

Just a thought Dave,

Maybe a wipe of ferric chloride with a Q tip would be a way of ageing the stomp switch button?

It could be followed up by a light coat of dark coloured paint, which could then be buffed off so as to just stay in the pits, giving a dirty old stomp switch look.

I have no idea how this would go or if it would work. 

[davent]

Hi  Buzz, haven't tried the etchant (use peroxide/muriatic acid) but have done as you describe using India Ink after scuffing, works quite well, the Bluing may give a more consistent, more predictable(?) and i think more durable finish then the ink.

Ink http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg896206#msg896206

Bluing  http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg1001281#msg1001281

Well, on second viewing... it's more either/or... more then one way to skin a cat as they used to say.
dave

[roswell]

Hi  Buzz, haven't tried the etchant (use peroxide/muriatic acid) but have done as you describe using India Ink after scuffing, works quite well, the Bluing may give a more consistent, more predictable(?) and i think more durable finish then the ink.

Ink http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg896206#msg896206

Bluing  http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg1001281#msg1001281

Well, on second viewing... it's more either/or... more then one way to skin a cat as they used to say.
dave

Wow! I've got some work to do, that looks incredible.

[brianq]

All good ideas, but don't get any debris inside the switch. This may be bad for it... Great lookin' box Roswell!!!

[roswell]

Thanks everyone, it was a learning experience that's for sure.

[LightSoundGeometry]

from my experience, after washing, wet sanding and drying..no primer is needed ..you can actually buy the 2n1 primer coat paint ..I love it and its cheaper

you have to apply in a warmer environment with a VERY THIN layer..almost nothing to get the best results ..my best paint jbs come out semi-translucent the paint is so thin..thick coats look bad and cause runs etc

I ruined about 20 enclusures before I started to get my technique down and it is still a work in progress.

i am now looking into waterslide decals and  gloss finish as my next step

hey small bear, do you guys have water slides already made up ? because I do not own any fancy cad software or a laser printer. I rather just buy them and apply them

[smallbearelec]

hey small bear, do you guys have water slides already made up? because I do not own any fancy cad software or a laser printer. I rather just buy them and apply them

We have all the work we can handle filling orders for parts, thanks! You don't necessarily need a laser printer; the ink jet decal stock works pretty well. What you do need is some fluency with creating artwork using a draw program. While the assistant who did my logo uses Photoshop, other, less-expensive packages can be made to do comparable designs. But getting good results takes a lot of time and practice.

[davent]

hey small bear, do you guys have water slides already made up? because I do not own any fancy cad software or a laser printer. I rather just buy them and apply them

We have all the work we can handle filling orders for parts, thanks! You don't necessarily need a laser printer; the ink jet decal stock works pretty well. What you do need is some fluency with creating artwork using a draw program. While the assistant who did my logo uses Photoshop, other, less-expensive packages can be made to do comparable designs. But getting good results takes a lot of time and practice.

Still going to need a printer but something to get you started.

http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10

[Buzz]

http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10

Chromesphere has a selection on his site. Low postage costs pretty much anywhere.

Edit... oops he seems to be out of them at the moment. Bookmark the link though, he's got some great stuff.

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

Nice looking box, there's something about freshly painted boxes.

[LightSoundGeometry]

couple of my hand painted ones :

http://www.ebay.com/sch/lightsoundgeometry/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

I talk to paul on youtube comments all the time. he is a good dude

[roswell]

Had an epiphany with the Dremel tool this morning: stop worrying about perfection and things not only get a lot more interesting, they also get a lot more fun! Not sure if I'm going to keep this, but it was a great learning experience.






Ordered 10 of the 1590B's from Mouser; here's my first drilled box (for the Madbean Rangemaster)