Pots.....which do you like best?

[Canucker]

Its time for me to start building again and put an order in to Tayda for some supplies...  I usually use the solder lug type pots....


but since I etch my own boards I wanted to try out some pcb mount types....  





so....which do you love and which do you hate?

[armdnrdy]

It all depends on the build.

When you get further into designing boards...you'll see that. 

[Canucker]

Oh I'm pretty far in and I do see it....I was just wondering what others were thinking and maybe if they had some quality issues with and of the styles or things like that.

[mth5044]

I'm a huge fan of the 9mm ones you posted. Easy way to mount the board, snap right in.

[Canucker]

I'm a huge fan in theory....the less wire the better!

[thehallofshields]

I've been doing the same with recent builds on Perf.

4 Pots and a Switch with Jacks and Power ends up being like 26+ wires. This is the downfall of all my projects.

But the problem I run into with board-mounted Pots is the Board running into the Jacks.

[Beo]

I have scrounged a lot of knobs off old mixers and the like, which tend to not have set screws, and need the split shaft. I've pulled a lot of 10k split shaft pots out of those same units, but that is pretty limiting. I've done some cool knob coloring with my airbrush setup which adds in some spice. These are often the most expensive components to a build, so if you want to throw a bunch of pedals together, this is a great way to scavenge and reuse parts.

But for the most part, I plan my builds, do my own layouts, board mount my non-split pots, and get nice aluminum knobs for my best pedals.

[italianguy63]

I usually use the 14mm? split shaft at the top...   But, as I have evolved with Eagle, I've made it a point to start PCB mounting the pots.  My last project was the clear-shaft Alpha's (not pictured).  And currently, I am doing my first board with the 9mm solid shaft ones.  I think I am liking them alot.  The footprint is really small.  I still do my jacks off-board.  But, I'm starting to think about doing the enclosed jacks in the future to eliminate even more wiring...

^ HAHAHHAHAHA..  Just realized I said "jacks off-" above.  My Beavis and Butthead moment.  Sorry.

Carry on.
MC

[Kipper4]

you need to be sure that normal 6mm knobs will fit on those 9mm onboard pots.
I recently tried some all boxed up and ready for the final touchs when i discovered the knobs didnt fit.
Now its also the first time i tried those particular knobs but If I was you i'd check before you get as far as I did.
Personaly I prefer the Tayda 19mm pots with split splines.

[duck_arse]

I MOST hate having to mix flatted/plain shaft and splined on the one build. also, I won't name tayda, but, tayda, for not servicing their line of splined pots with spline knobs.

my most preference is for pcb pins, 14mm (cause I've never gotten at 9mm's yet), with the longer D shaft. 24mm are ok for big boxes, but I don't wanna mix sizes in a build either. I'd rather have to cut shafts than mod knobs.

and chips of vero on the pins to ease the wiring.

[nickbungus]

Not this one...

[italianguy63]

I won't name tayda, but, tayda, for not servicing their line of splined pots with spline knobs.

Their cheapo colored knobs are splined.. I use them on some of my builds.

My next project is "higher-end" so I went with the 9mm/smooth with the set screw Davies....

Edit:  I've tried cutting down the pots before, and ruined as many as I was able to cut...  Ultimately, I found it was easier and faster/cheaper to buy extra pot nuts, and add an extra underneath to space the pot down, so the knobs fit flusher-- assuming you have the real estate inside the enclosure.

[duck_arse]

.... assuming you have the real estate inside the enclosure.

never, EVER make that assumption. [I just wish I could get to have a go on a few top-loader builds, where parts go in or come out, without a specific order of assembly. mine are sheer hell, every time.]

[Cozybuilder]

never, EVER make that assumption. [I just wish I could get to have a go on a few top-loader builds, where parts go in or come out, without a specific order of assembly. mine are sheer hell, every time.]

Amen DA    Working with the 1590B recently was a luxury for roominess compared to that doggone LB itch I've been scratching.

[anotherjim]

I like to get 16mm spline ones with pcb pins (even if not pcb mounting). Happen to be cheap, but the supplier I uses for some mad reason doesn't do 10klog. Another issue is the shafts are too long for any knob I'd want to use, so I have to cut them down. These are Tru-Ohm brand.
As I build for myself, and most of it is an experiment, I'm not too fussy so long as they're cheap. Recently I've been trying all plastic ones. Finding them ok so far if a little "loose" in feel. These are Piher brand in black plastic and have a good range of values, duals and switched. Did try some green Omeg ones but those are too cheap - very flimsy.

[italianguy63]

LOL  Cozy and DA!!  This 'ole dude still plays in the 125B sandbox, and I don't have your high falutin' issues!

Indeed, I have others... but, I still got room in me boxes!!  (did I say that?)...  Another hash mark on the road to Nakita/Big Ange....

MC

[Keppy]

9mm - These pots have two non-circuit pins for extra security in mounting to the board, plus the pot mounts all the way against the board. The pins use .1" spacing, so they don't take up much room but are hard to run traces between. Don't forget about the two extra holes for the mounting pins. As a bonus, these pots mount at the same height as the board mounted SPDT and DPDT toggles from Mountain and other suppliers (3PDT is a little taller).

16mm - These pots mount via three somewhat more flexible pins that seem more prone to straining the solder joints if the nut ever loosens. The spacing is .2" so you can run traces between the pins. If you get the long pin ones that Small Bear sells, you can fit most components between the pots and the PCB, so you don't have to leave space on your board for the body of the pot. Do not try and fit the long pin 16mm pots in a 1590B, however. I made the mistake of designing a bunch of boards that way and ended up having to insulate the back plates with electrical tape and hope that the physical strain of the back plate on the PCB wouldn't break the solder joints.

To me, the 9mm pots seem to mount more securely, but the 16mm leave more room on the board.

[Jdansti]

I've been using the little green PCB mount type even when I just mount the to the enclosure and not the PCB. I take a small piece of Vero and cut it 5 traces wide and solder the 3 lugs and 2 mounting pins to it. This makes it very easy to connect multiple wires to the lugs without worrying about them bending shorting against each other.

[KazooMan]

Mounting options aside, any preferences based on the actual electronic performance of the pots?  It would seem that the longer wiper in a larger diameter pot would allow for more precision in setting the value of the pot. 

[armdnrdy]

It would seem that the longer wiper in a larger diameter pot would allow for more precision in setting the value of the pot. 

No difference...it's the same 300 degrees scaled.