Ibanez Tone Lok rehouse

[alange5]

I'm rehousing an Ibanez PD7 phat-hed bass overdrive for a friend.  I've got a handle on how to wire up the new jacks and pots, but I'm not sure what kind of toggle switches should be used in place of the 3-position sliders.  Here's the schematic:

http://rudn.nodevice.com/preview/big/358/358491-1.jpg

3PDT? DPDT? on-off-on? on-on-on?  Can't wrap my head around it...

Also, would a normal momentary SPST stomp switch work for the foot switch?

Thanks.

[PRR]

That image is pretty squinty?

If you mean the switches top-left---

They *appear* to be common 3-throw devices. One is shown as 4-pole, the other as 2-pole; however there is an un-used pole on each one. (The basic switch is probably made 2-wide, and 1- or 2-long, so you have to buy 2 or 4 poles even if you need 1 or 3 poles.)



A 3-throw toggle is a VERY rare device. ("On-off-on" is only 2 useful poles.)

3-throw *rotary* switches are common and cheap. Put chicken-head knobs on, they are almost as finger-friendly as toggle. You will probably "have to" buy 4P3T: they put in all 12 contacts whether you need them or not. They are very inexpensive.

Yes, the effect/bypass switch appears to be a SPST momentary.

[alange5]

Thanks for the info.  I think I'll have to go rotary...  I've never wired a rotary switch before.  Any useful sites that explain the basics?

Just to clarify...  SW-1 is wired as 3-throw 3-pole, and SW-2 as 3-throw, 1-pole?  And both can be accomplished with a 4p3t rotary?

[Kevin Mitchell]

Alpha 3P2-4T rotary switch is a common rotary switch. The way it works is there are 3 connections "poles" and each connection can switch to one of 4 connections "throws"(12 outer lugs - 4 for each pole). Well actually each can connect to 12 throws but that isn't practical because once you pass the 4th it goes to what you could call pole #2's 1st connection (lug 5) and so on so it's practical to think only 4 throws per pole unless you're using it for other intentions (ideally needing only 1 pole and more than 4 throws). The switches come with a tab so you can position it to whatever "throw" limit necessary.

What you need is a 2 and 3 pole - up to three throws. This common switch should do it for you. Didn't look at the schematic-I just read real quick hoping to answer about rotary switches. I couldn't find much help waiting for mine to come in a while back.

Hope that helped.

[Gus]

Why are you rehousing a tone lok case effect? 
I like how the controls can be pushed flat with the case and the use of slide switches. 
Small toogles are easy to step on and break slide switches are harder to step on and break

[alange5]

it's for a friend, and he's paying me to do it.  still trying to wrap my head around how to wire the rotary switches per the schematic.  if anyone sees this and would care to share some insight, i'd appreciate it!

[PRR]

> how to wire the rotary switches per the schematic.

I don't know if you don't understand the schematic or don't understand the switch. The switch is very cheap, and you can see all the guts, what connects to what. May be good to have one in hand while studying.

[alange5]

> how to wire the rotary switches per the schematic.

I don't know if you don't understand the schematic or don't understand the switch. The switch is very cheap, and you can see all the guts, what connects to what. May be good to have one in hand while studying.

Very helpful.  Thank you.  I think I'm starting to wrap my head around it...  Admittedly, I'm more of a "follow the layout" pedal builder, but I'm trying to get better at reading schematics and comparing to a layout.  So just to confirm... Per the schematic, J301 EQIN goes to SW1 pole 1. Lugs 1 and 2 are tied together and both go to J201-1 (OD).  Lug 3 goes to J201-2, and so on and so forth.  Am I on the right track?

One last thing... As far as JP4-JP14 go, am I correct in assuming that no connections are made when the lines are left broken on the schematic?  For instance, SW1 pole 3 has 1 lug connecting to J201-5 (ZL1).  Since JP7 and JP8 are broken, is that the only connection made at pole 3?

I sincerely appreciate the help thus far.

[Kevin Mitchell]

Sorry didn't realize the schem called for a 4 pole switch 

If it's not labeled then it probably doesn't lead anywhere. But from what I can tell it wouldn't make sense for those to be broken connections assuming you're talking about the right side of that pic which the arrows signify poles. If I could read it I'd tell you what those connections are relevant to. But I can't 

[alange5]

Here's an up-close

[PRR]

4P3T switch pin-out
http://www.sonelec-musique.com/images2/electronique_commutateurs_rotatifs_001_4p3t.gif

I don't like the way it is numbered, 1-12. A1 A2 A3, B1 B2.... makes more sense to me.



This is the backside numbered like I like it. The red arrows show the connected lugs in position 1; the pink arrows show positions 2 and 3.

On the right I extracted *one* of the four poles, and show it above an extract of your Lok schematic. See the similarity?

Below that I show my interpretation of the overcomplicated Lok schematic and the essential connections. AFAICT the JP links are for other models on the same PCB. No link, no connection.

I'm no fishmonger, so I leave the SW2 connections for you to study and solve.

[alange5]

Awesome! Just started making sense and a visual confirmation is tremendously helpful.  I really appreciate it.  I'll pop in with an update when it's all wired up.  Again, thank you one and all.

[alange5]

All wired up and working perfectly.  New switch, LED, jacks, pots, and two rotary switches in place of the sliders.  The work was extremely tedious.  It was a great learning experience, but I don't think I'd ever do it again.  Thanks again for all the help.