Headphone splitter??

Started by WholeLottaDimitri, June 12, 2015, 03:51:34 PM

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WholeLottaDimitri

I want to built a headphone splitter for running out of my console for recording.
Can I just connect all the new outs from the 1 input?
Or is there a better way?

GibsonGM

#1
Do it using a proven design...you never want to connect 'outs' all together, or you can seriously pork whatever is driving the output (like your console)!   

Here is a passive way to do this, with just a few resistors.  1K or what have you:  http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schematics/audio/6headphonesplitter.pdf   

The "Left" and "Right" can be done with one (stereo) cable, of course.

If you're adventurous, you could build maybe 2 or 3 of THESE:  http://makezine.com/projects/bass-bump-headphone-amp/  and use the front of the one linked above to split the signals...might be easiest to use the one above and just add vol. pots, and crank the line out, tho...

"Headbanger" headphone amp is simpler than the 2nd one I just linked to, couldn't find it fast enough ;)  Let me know if you need it.
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PRR

#2
If you just have one friend, don't need loud levels, you can often just split.

It is not likely you will "pork your output". Most headphone jacks are pretty blow-up-proof. Stuff does happen.

But I suspect you want LOUD levels to ALL your bandmates. The 1 or 2 HP jacks on a console won't do that. Also some players want more than others. You want a many-channel headphone amp. There's at least one good one from Rane, though not cheap. A 12-pack of LM386 with a 12V supply will feed a whole band pretty good.

The old-skool trick is a Crown D-75 speaker power-amp and a lot of 100 ohm dual-gang pots, maybe some resistors. However the suitable pot has gone out of production.
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The heavy-duty foolproof way to do it is to use a chipamp. If your console PSU is strong enough to run it, it is a very trivial thing to make it a "daugter module" or even an "outborad add-on" module and jut power it from the console PSU.

Beware that a chipamp needs a certain gain scheme to run as advertised and stable, usually somewhere around 20-26dB gain. So you need to pad the signal down before it goes into a chipamp. Not a very elegant solution by any means, but it works ... and it works LOUD and clear. Of course you can also incorporate some form of a "volume" control and/or a simple tone control.

Suitable chips are TDA2030, 2040, TDA1521 from the TDA family, and LM1875 (single) and LM1876 (twin). My personal recommendation is to use a LM1876 or TDA1521 for the ease of use. Read the datasheets and study the recommended factory circuits.

Without saying, it is understood that you will "split" the output signal with multiple resistor divider combinations into multiple headphone outputs. Here is a good explanation on how to do it:
http://sound.westhost.com/project100.htm

good luck

NakedApe

Quote from: PRR on June 12, 2015, 11:21:18 PM
If you just have one friend, don't need loud levels, you can often just split.

It is not likely you will "pork your output". Most headphone jacks are pretty blow-up-proof. Stuff does happen.

But I suspect you want LOUD levels to ALL your bandmates. The 1 or 2 HP jacks on a console won't do that. Also some players want more than others. You want a many-channel headphone amp. There's at least one good one from Rane, though not cheap. A 12-pack of LM386 with a 12V supply will feed a whole band pretty good.

The old-skool trick is a Crown D-75 speaker power-amp and a lot of 100 ohm dual-gang pots, maybe some resistors. However the suitable pot has gone out of production.

Those LM386´s work well, I made a headphone amp out of a pair (Left and Right channels) and it works like a charm.  I run it directly off of my 1 spot daisy chain.
What are you, some kind of wizard?