Arcadiator Fuzz build

[jez79]

Holy Macaroni folks...
For my first 'effect' stompbox since this 15yr hiatus from hobby electronics, I think I've outdone myself!
Worked perfectly on the first test (probably thanks to mail order PCB!)
Tried finishing the enclosure using découpage technique. White glue and paper, then polyurethane to finish.

[brokenstarguitar]

I like the whole Pitfall graphics. Good job! Here's one I build. This was done point to point. Wish I would've taken some gut shots before I sent it out though.

[willc68]

Nice looking build and your demo was very good in demonstrating what this pedal can do.
Now I need to order a few parts and get my Arcadiator soldered up.

Very good job indeed.

[Freppo]

It looks nice, and very good demo! Nice job

[thehallofshields]

Nice Job. Beautiful Circuit Board. Master Builder.

The Arcadiator is one of the only Pedals out there that I would spend big money on.

One day when I reach Blackbelt level I'll build one of these.

[rullywowr]

Very awesome!   So neat and I love the Pitfall graphics too. 

[thehallofshields]

Very awesome!

I bought 2 PCB's and 2 3PDT Breakouts from you this morning then realized the Arcadiator is back-ordered. Oops.

No problem though. That gives me more time to order mountable pots and switches and stuff.

Are people using pre-drilled enclosures or is everyone just superb at lining up their holes?

[thehallofshields]

I love the Pitfall graphics too. 

It looked like Legend of Zelda to me at first, then I realized it was Pitfall.

I'm going to have to continue the tradition and pick out a Retro Game.
I'm from the Sega Genesis generation myself.

[hymenoptera]

Very awesome!

...

Are people using pre-drilled enclosures or is everyone just superb at lining up their holes?

The build docs suggest leaving the pots and switches unsoldered until after the enclosure has been drilled. This gives a little more wiggle room to fit everything, so you can just loosely install the switches/pots in the enclosure, drop the PCB down onto them, then fiddle with alignment until the PCB is down on over the pins. He even recommends doing all four pots first, then move on to the switches. I haven't tried this yet, but it makes sense.

This method should work for any PCB that is control mounted like this. I thinking I'm going to do this Madbean Slow Loris setting in front of me the same way. Should make things much easier than sweating over every thousandths of an inch.

[hymenoptera]

I have a couple quick questions for Freppo, if I may...

The pdf from the parasit website is the newest version, correct? I'm using the RullyWow PCBs, but it looks like it would be simple to change or omit a few parts to bring the RullyWow board up to spec with the newest version. Does this make sense for someone with the version 1B board?

1) I see that R3 has been changed from 10k to 22k. I was wondering what the reason is and should I sub a 22k in place for R3.

2) Also, it looks like a 100k resistor has been omitted on the new pdf. R19 on the version 1B schematic. It's just pulling one of the XOR inputs down to ground. Should I omit this resistor, and what is the benefit, or why was it omitted in the new 1.1 version?

Thanks for your valued insight, and have a great day!

[Freppo]

Hi,
The only differences are that I changed R3 to 22K. It solves an issue some people were having with oscillation.
I also added polarity protection and DC filtering and a trimmer for the LED. But that's it.

I have to check R19, it should be there. Maybe I missed it

I will have a closer look when I get back home next week. I'm away on travels atm
cheers / Fredrik

[hymenoptera]

Awesome! Then I shall substitute 22k @ R3 if it's a stability thing. Thanks!