Arcadiator PCB build problem.

[Jamforthelamb]

Hey guys,
I've been building an Arcadiator using the Rullywow version 1b pcb and I've ran into some problems. The high octave and general fuzziness seems to be there, but the more synthy sounds and lower octaves don't come through/aren't there (depending on knob setting). It also appears that the rate knob does nothing at all, and the LED kinda blinks when playing depending on thresh. setting, but never anything steady like a normal osc. I've tried putting an OCD in front of it to boost it (Fredrik says it's meant for high output pups). and that really didn't change anything. Only substitutions are a 33k res. in place of the 27k res. at R6 and 250k rate pot instead of 200k. I've double checked diode and elec cap orientation, and all the components appear to be the correct values. Here are the voltages I'm getting.

Source voltage: 9.4 from 1Spot

IC1 (4069)
1: 4.20
2: 4.23
3: 4.27
4: 2.97
5: 3.29
6: 6.10
7: 0.00
8: 9.17
9: 0.50
10: 0.01
11: 8.55
12: 9.02
13: 0.01
14: 9.18

IC2 (4024)
1: 8.36
2: 2.62
3: 0.00
4: 0.00
5: 0.00
6: 0.00
7: 0.00
8: 0.06
9: 9.18
10: 0.01
11: 4.61
12: 0.00
13: 0.00
14: 9.18

IC3 (4070)
1: 4.61
2: 7.40 to 0.00
3: 9.18
4: 0.00
5: 9.18
6: 9.02
7: 0.00
8: 0.00
9: 9.02
10: 0.00
11: 0.00
12: 8.45
13: 8.02
14: 9.18

Thanks for any help you can give.
-Kevin

[jez79]

Ok just finished 4 of these...
The octave sounds turn off depending on the mode toggle and blend knob
Are you sure it's not just a settings issue? The lfo effect on octaves is also dependent on mode toggle and blend setting.

The first one i made stopped working all of a sudden. Couldn't figure it out, until i by chance saw i had forgotten to solder in the input cap. Reused cap had tin on legs, fooled me into thinking it was soldered. Happy problem resolution...

[Jamforthelamb]

I've tried a variety of settings. I do get the low octave sometimes, but it never modulates at all. I've double checked all my solder points also reflowing any that looked even remotely suspect.
Thanks!
-Kevin

[R.G.]

What's an arcadiator? Does it have a schematic available that would let us have a chance to help?

There's a reason for all that stuff other than just voltages in "what to do when it doesn't work".

[Jamforthelamb]

The only copy of the schematic I can find is in the build docs. link = http://www.rullywow.com/build_docs/Arcadiator%20Build%20Doc%20v1B.pdf
It's hard to explain but I guess it be considered a type of fuzz. It can do octave up, octave down and sub octave with the ability to be modulated by an LFO. Very 8 bit sounding. Designed by Freppo who I think is on here at times.
Thanks!
-Kevin

[jez79]

I want to help you make this circuit work.

Here’s a quick guided tour of the sounds the Arcadiator can make. Follow along plugged in and loud if you can.
1)   General: Volume around 12:00 is usually close to unity. Depending on the blend setting, there may be slight dips or boost to the overall loudness of the sound. Use Volume to compensate.
Suggested initial toggle settings: Mode down (octave off), LFO down (off), and Octave down (1 oct down)
2)   Fuzz: Turn blend fully CCW, 100% Fuzz. Octave is off so you can’t hear that anyways.
Set this way the Arcadiator is a bit crushy fuzz. Play around with the Width knob and the PWM/Octup toggle to hear the range of Fuzz tones.
The fuzz will work with chords and needs no special playing technique.
3)   Octave: Toggle Mode up (octave on) to activate the octave. Leave the Octave toggle down (1oct down) for now. Turn the blend CW, you’ll hear the octave introduced to the sound.
*Analog octavers require playing in a certain manner in order to track well. The circuit needs to hear the fundamental tone of the note you are playing. Tips: use neck pickup, play nearer the neck than the bridge, palm mute a little bit to make precise notes and kill higher harmonics.
Toggle Octave up (2 oct down). Now you’ve got 2 octaves down. If you’re using bass, this is way lower than is useful, but sounds great on guitar or high up on bass.
Play around blending some fuzz with 1 or 2 octaves down. Try blending octave up fuzz with 2 octaves down, or wide PWM fuzz with one octave down. Lots of different sounds.
4)   LFO: LFO activates secondary octave and cycles between primary and secondary octaves with adjustable rate. If mode is off, only secondary octave is heard.
Toggle LFO up to activate. LFO is only active when triggered by signal from instrument.*
With a low Rate, LFO can produce rhythmic arpeggio-like basslines. With a high rate, a warbly video game sound can be produced.
The LFO functions best with the Octave toggle down. Toggling Octave up makes the lower octave (2 down) primary and the higher octave (1 down) secondary. Tracking is sometimes more difficult this way; try turning the Width knob CW as this seems to help. Depending on the frequency resolution of your instrument, sometimes using Octup fuzz with LFO makes the lowest note a fifth lower instead of a full octave lower.

[Jamforthelamb]

Thanks man, that actually helped a lot. It seems that everything works but the actual LFO portion. Can't get it to alternate at all regardless of rate knob position when the LFO switch is engaged.
-Kevin

[jez79]

aha!
Have you tried adjusting the trimpot?
CCW increases sensitivity, CW reduces sensitivity.
The trimpot constrols the sensitivity of the LFO trigger. If it's turned all the way to the right (CW), then it's probably too low sensitivity.
Have you tried with an active instrument?

[Freppo]

Here's a manual I put together for the Arcadiators I'm selling.

Ehm.. The Arcadiators that you are selling?? Oh, I see the sale ads now at the talkbass forum...

You have not contacted me and asked for permission. I designed this circuit. It's an original design that I decided to share for free with the DIY community. I've stated clearly in my blog that all my designs are for DIY only and not for commersial use (with one exception - my own original pedal that i'm selling through my blog). I have an agreement with Ben at Rullywow to sell his Arcadiator PCB's and with Musikding.de that are selling complete kit using my own PCB design. If you have any respect for the work i'm sharing or the DIY community, you will take down all topics you have started on basstalk and you will not sell any more arcadiator pedals. Thank you.

Perhaps I should stop sharing my ideas... Sigh..

/ Fredrik

[jez79]

Here's a manual I put together for the Arcadiators I'm selling.

Ehm.. The Arcadiators that you are selling?? Oh, I see the sale ads now at the talkbass forum...

You have not contacted me and asked for permission. I designed this circuit. It's an original design that I decided to share for free with the DIY community. I've stated clearly in my blog that all my designs are for DIY only and not for commersial use (with one exception - my own original pedal that i'm selling through my blog). I have an agreement with Ben at Rullywow to sell his Arcadiator PCB's and with Musikding.de that are selling complete kit using my own PCB design. If you have any respect for the work i'm sharing or the DIY community, you will take down all topics you have started on basstalk and you will not sell any more arcadiator pedals. Thank you.

Perhaps I should stop sharing my ideas... Sigh..

/ Fredrik

I am so saddened by this!
It seems I have misunderstood the rullywow terms of use. I am new to pedalmaking and have been working on this as a summer project while off of school teaching. My enthusiasm for this project and the approaching end of summer had me rushing to finish.
I have a great respect for your interesting work and have taken down the talkbass classifieds add, as well as images and references to the pedals.
I had no idea my actions were in conflict with proper protocol. Please forgive my naive ignorance on these matters.

[Freppo]

@ jez79 - I have PM'ed you.

@ Jamforthelamb - Sorry to hijack your thread like this. I wish I could help, but I can't see what could cause your problem.
Maybe you would have better luck with my version of the PCB? If you're interested, PM me your adress and I'll send you one for free.

cheers
/ Fredrik

[hymenoptera]

Where's everyone getting their C500k reverse-log right-angle PCB-mount pots?

Smallbear is out of the regular ones, but has the "long" ones. I need the regular ones, right? He's got 1Meg, but I'm not sure how that would even affect the circuit, and I don't want to go linear...

Tayda doesn't even stock it, I don't think.

[Jamforthelamb]

I used one from tayda, but made it a right angle lead by wiring some solid core wire to it. Best solution I could come up with.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/anti-log-reverse/500k-ohm-c500k-500kc-anti-log-taper-potentiometer.html
-Kevin

[Freppo]

Both Musikding (screw) and Banzai (split-shaft) has right angle C500K PCB-mount pots.
Don't know of a US supplier though

[Cozybuilder]

Mammoth has it listed:

http://www.mammothelectronics.com/Alpha-Potentiometer-p/210-100-c.htm

[hymenoptera]

Awesome! Placed a Mammoth order for them, thanks guys!

Freppo, what would happen if I replaced the B200k with a B250k pot? I'm guessing 200k was selected either because it's specifically needed, or is it just what you had on hand while prototyping? I've got 250k, but no 200k.

Thanks! I can't wait to get my PCB from RullyWow in the mail. This thing is gonna be a beast, I just know it!

[Freppo]

Freppo, what would happen if I replaced the B200k with a B250k pot? I'm guessing 200k was selected either because it's specifically needed, or is it just what you had on hand while prototyping? I've got 250k, but no 200k.

You can use a 250K insted, no problem.