two pedals - one enclosure. How to have one switch, switch between the two?

[fuzzdoge]

I'm putting a Russian Muff and an overdrive, maybe a hotcake? into the same enclosure. I was wanting to have one switch to switch between the two. Is there a link to any wiring diagrams? I've googled and googled and found nothing. I was also thinking of having two extra stomps, to turn both effects on and off, with a switch to bypass the switching switch.

Hmm, this is hard to word. Probably why I couldn't find anything with google!

I could probably just turn my foot sideways and turn them both on and off, but where's the fun in that!

[JustinFun]

There's more than one way, but this is probably the easiest to understand, using a dpdt:



If you want to use LED indicators just use a 3pdt and wire the cathodes of each LED to the outer 2 lugs and a ground wire to the centre lug, then power to the anodes in the usual way.

[JustinFun]

That said, having two switches and wiring them in series gives you the opportunity to get a third sound out of the box (e.g. both on). If you do that I'd put the overdrive first - you'll get a tighter distortion sound - OD, Fuzz and distortion in one box!

[Kevin Mitchell]

Sounds like you're in need of an a/b/y switch

Here's a picture I quickly found on google;
LINK

I haven't tested it but it's very straight forward. Switch on the left flips flops between the two effects "A/B" and the other switch is for both "Y". The only thing I don't like about that schematic is even when Y is active one LED from the A/B switch wont light. For my taste I would omit the Y LED and solder the ground that was for Y to both LED grounds. 2 switches, 2 LEDs.

Actually now that I think about it an ABY might not be so great stacking two effects like it does - Output of effect1 should go to in of effect2. I'll be back.

[nickbungus]

Two Pedals, One Enclosure.  Is that the sequel to Two Girls, One Cup?

[JustinFun]

For my taste I would omit the Y LED and solder the ground that was for Y to both LED grounds. 2 switches, 2 LEDs.

If you did that then both LEDs would share a common connection to ground - meaning both LEDs would be on all the time!

Even when Y ground was not connected via the switch LED 1 would be connected to LED 2 via the Y switch lug and so both would be connected to ground via either LED1 lug or LED 2 lug.

(I'm sure there's a simpler way to put that, but I can't think of one at the moment...)

[GibsonGM]

IMHO, much much better to use TWO switches, as shown in this:  http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_two_in_one_wiring.pdf
This matches what Justin said above.

This allows you to have both OFF too!   

But if you want to do the above with only one switch (flip back & forth only), use a 3pdt and BICOLOR LED - you can wire it up to give you different colors when using A or B.   I just think that A/B'ing may be limiting, but maybe you have a specific thing you're trying to do. 

[Kevin Mitchell]

For my taste I would omit the Y LED and solder the ground that was for Y to both LED grounds. 2 switches, 2 LEDs.

If you did that then both LEDs would share a common connection to ground - meaning both LEDs would be on all the time!

Yeah I see what you mean. Because of this topic this morning I drew out an idea for an A/B/Y switch circuit with a momentary switch. I have a grasp on a theory to flip from A-Y-B back to A by holding the button and it setting as you release the switch. Just working out how to get a clean bypass through quick click.

Me and my crazy ideas... 

[fuzzdoge]

Thanks for the replies!

Having a switch to quickly switch between, just makes it easier to go from od to fuzz.

Trying to turn off my delay, turn off my od, turn on my fuzz and also sing isn't the easiest thing to make seamless.
One less footswitch would make everything a lot easier.

I was thinking it could have 3 foot switches and another switch to change between switching mode and then in series mode.

so:

stomp 1 would turn effect 1 on/off
stomp 2 would turn effect 2 on/off
stomp 3 (in the middle) would switch between the two.

Has anyone done anything like this before?

Before this I have been using a boss line selector and putting my muff and hotcake on separate lines and just switching between them.
This has worked fine, but it takes up way to much space on my pedal board and it would be pretty cool to have something different.

[Granny Gremlin]

Yep; its been done.  There are even prefab PCBs for the order switching.

http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Effect_Order_Switcher/p847124_13121542.aspx


See also their blender (mixes wet and dry or 2 wets)  and series/parallel switcher.   You can get really fancy here or stay bare bones.  Think it through and then talk yourself down a bit ;P

[fuzzdoge]

Yep; its been done.  There are even prefab PCBs for the order switching.

http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Effect_Order_Switcher/p847124_13121542.aspx


See also their blender (mixes wet and dry or 2 wets)  and series/parallel switcher.   You can get really fancy here or stay bare bones.  Think it through and then talk yourself down a bit ;P

Nailed it! Thanks man.

[fuzzdoge]

Yep; its been done.  There are even prefab PCBs for the order switching.

http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Effect_Order_Switcher/p847124_13121542.aspx


See also their blender (mixes wet and dry or 2 wets)  and series/parallel switcher.   You can get really fancy here or stay bare bones.  Think it through and then talk yourself down a bit ;P

I've had a good look and there is still nothing that answers my question. But damn! That Pot swap is a sick idea!

The a/b is nearly there, but it has to come back into one output.

[fuzzdoge]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pmuk3hjgongu150/wiringidea.png?dl=0

[Granny Gremlin]

I've had a good look and there is still nothing that answers my question. But damn! That Pot swap is a sick idea!

The a/b is nearly there, but it has to come back into one output.

OH, I coulda sworn the question was about order of the 2 fx in series, but maybe that was further up.

I don't actually understand your plan as stated in your reply#8.  You say you want a switch to change between single fx and both in series modes but then that switch is none of the 3 you list.... so 4 switches?  Then will you be satisfied with the series option set to a specific order (5 switches if you wanna change that too).

This is gonna get tight.  I would recomend picking one - individual fx on/offs or a switch between the 2 (you can have a master on off as well).  Even individual on offs you can save a stomp in your workflow by putting them close enough together that you can hit them both at the same time, turning one off and one on (but far enough apart so you can hit them individually if you want).  If you think you will mostly have one of these 2 fx on all the time, then go with the A/B switch + master on/off.  Then if you add a single/series switch that's only 3 switches on the box and manageable.  I put 4 stomps on a 1790NS/1590XX box - that was a bit tight (just barely manageable).  If you do go with single/series switch I suggest making the FX order switch (if you use one) a toggle/slider vs stomp so save space (see the schem of the link I posted above for how to wire that).

[lethargytartare]

Why doesn't justinfun's first reply fit the bill?  2pdt, bounces between effect A and effect B, single output. A second switch would be your complete bypass.

But you also sound like you might be better served by a programmable looper.  If you're really into separate/specific effects, and you sing, and you do a fair amount of shoegazey changes, then a looper is it.  Here's a cheap 4-loop one from overseas/monoprice:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11501&cs_id=1150108&p_id=611680&seq=1&format=2
And there are higher end ones:
http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/219479-Palmer-OCTOBUS

[lethargytartare]

Consider this:

"stomp 1 would turn effect 1 on/off
stomp 2 would turn effect 2 on/off
stomp 3 (in the middle) would switch between the two."

If S1 is on and S2 is off, then S3 is doing the same thing as S1.
If S1 is off and S2 is on, then S3 is doing the same thing as S2.
If both S1 and S2 are on, then S3 is doing the same thing as justinfun's first switch suggestion (call it a simple A/B)
And given your description, there's be no way for both S1 and S2 to be on at the same time.  So, again, S1 as an A/B and S2 as a bypass would fulfill your specs.

[Granny Gremlin]

Yeah, that's what I was getting at.

[fuzzdoge]

ahh my brain hurts.

I think I'll just chuck em both in the same enclosure with two switches.
I'll just kick them on and off at the same time.

Thanks for your help!

[JustinFun]

Don't give up! It's not that hard once you work it through.

I've drawn the whole thing out:

[fuzzdoge]

Don't give up! It's not that hard once you work it through.

I've drawn the whole thing out:

That's great man!
Thanks so much for your help.

I'll have a think about it, but as everyone is saying I will most likely regret not being able to use these in parallel.

Pretty easy build anyways. I could do it for a bit of fun.