Does this schematic look good?

[Cozybuilder]

...by just sticking a cap between Q1C and the first 51K, leaving the rest leading to Q2B as is...

If I do this, what is a good cap to use? My original layout did have a .1uF right there (I think) or maybe it was .01uF

You're generating harmonics here, not tone-shaping, so you want a rather large cap. Why not another 4u7?

Regarding the resistor in series with the Schottky, I like 47ohms. Try out this calculator with different values of R and 100uF, 47R gets rid of most of the audio frequencies on your power supply line, including 60hz:

  http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Low-pass-filter-calculator.php#answer1

[Keppy]

Don't forget, if you add a coupling cap from Q1C to the 51k resistor, you'll have to flip the other 4.7uF cap back to the way it was.

[Ben Lyman]

Regarding the resistor in series with the Schottky, I like 47ohms. Try out this calculator with different values of R and 100uF, 47R gets rid of most of the audio frequencies on your power supply line, including 60hz

Okay, 47r and 100uF gives me a calculation of about 33.86. Does that seem right? A 26r and 100uF gives me 61.21. Wouldn't that be better? I'm really sorry, I don't understand this stuff but I want to.

Don't forget, if you add a coupling cap from Q1C to the 51k resistor, you'll have to flip the other 4.7uF cap back to the way it was.

Okay, and if I use an electrolytic like another 4.7uF, since they are sort of in series will they go the same direction? Like, + to -?

[Keppy]

Regarding the resistor in series with the Schottky, I like 47ohms. Try out this calculator with different values of R and 100uF, 47R gets rid of most of the audio frequencies on your power supply line, including 60hz

Okay, 47r and 100uF gives me a calculation of about 33.86. Does that seem right? A 26r and 100uF gives me 61.21. Wouldn't that be better? I'm really sorry, I don't understand this stuff but I want to.

The filter reduces all frequencies above the cutoff frequency. Lower cutoff frequency numbers are better.

Don't forget, if you add a coupling cap from Q1C to the 51k resistor, you'll have to flip the other 4.7uF cap back to the way it was.

Okay, and if I use an electrolytic like another 4.7uF, since they are sort of in series will they go the same direction? Like, + to -?

Both (-) go towards ground (through a resistor or two), both (+) towards the transistors.

[Ben Lyman]

Thanks Keppy, when I get a chance I will be doing some serious reworking of this circuit and put together a new schematic for the final result. I've been sick as a dawg last couple days so trying to get to bed early and take it easy. Hopefully I will be ready to head back out to the garage soon, stand by for updates!

[Cozybuilder]

Get well soon Ben- I look forward to seeing your final schematic.

[Ben Lyman]

I'm back with new voltage readings! It really does seem like the voltage divider does something but I am doing a "late-night-quiet-time-thru-the-Champion600" test, so nothing is final yet.
Instead of a trimmer, I just put a 1k in place of the 490r at Q1e. So far everything still sounds great even if the voltages aren't perfect but here's the new readings:

Q1c 4.27
    b 0.46
    e 0.33

Q2c 0.78
    b 0.12
    e 0.00

Q3c 4.47
    b 0.78
    e 0.61

Unfortunately, a good test thru the tweed half stack might have to wait until the weekend.
Let me know if there is anything obviously wrong with these readings.

[Ben Lyman]

Today's volts:

Q1c 3.06
    b 0.71
    e 0.58

Q2c 0.82
    b 0.12
    e 0.00

Q3c 5.32
    b 0.82
    e 0.66

How important is it to get Q1b up to 1v? remember Q1 represents a (sort of) stand alone clean boost pedal.
Is there something else I can tinker with?
Would my previous post (^up there^) be a better thing to go with? The sound isn't changing, still sounds like a full stack being driven with a booster pedal at the input, I really like it.
I just wonder if this voltage thing is so important for some reason that I don't know about.
Again, sorry I don't fully understand this stuff and thanks for all the help!
Here's where I'm at:

[PRR]

> get Q1b up to 1v?

Maybe you got that number from a Silicon version.

Your build seems to be using Germanium??

The key thing is to find the Collector "about halfway" from zero to battery voltage, so it can swing both ways.

Here it only has to swing enough to slam Q2, which with Q3 needs only a sub-Volt signal. We want Q1 Collector to be able to swing a Volt either way.

3.0V is fine.

[Ben Lyman]

> get Q1b up to 1v?
Your build seems to be using Germanium??

Yes indeed and thanks again PRR, this thing might be ready to go.
I still have to run it through my real amp at a decent volume so
hopefully tomorrow I will get the chance.

[Ben Lyman]

Getting closer, all the tweaking caused me to lose some of the sustain so I changed the divider into an almost maxed out pot, sounds great now.
I'm not 100% sure I need the 1M right there but I think I heard it get a little harsher when I took it out.
The 10k definitely needs to be there whether it has one 4.7uF or two 4.7uF's.

Did I get those two caps orientated properly? Both positive leads towards the transistors, right?
I still need to give it a "loud test drive" but I think it is ready to solder.

Any tips for creating a layout? I am going to be using pad-per-hole perfboard for the first time.
I have always used plain perf and joined the leads point to point on the underside.
I am hoping I can get a little more creative with this one and make solder trails.

My biggest hangup has always been designing a usable layout with paper and pencil.
Also, a lot of the programs used by most of you seem to be PC only but I have a MAC

[Kipper4]

Solder trails. Use the through hole leads and discarded leads to form the traces.

I use diylc. However there are Mac platform cads. Stripboard cad. Is one I've been playing with as an app for the iPad.(not affiliated) just saying have a hunt around.

Nothing wrong with graph paper layouts. That's how I started with a dod250 variation.

Great fun. Take your time refining and checking.

[peterg]

Take a look at Frequency Central's Rob Holt's work for pointers and inspiration...

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=84832.0

[Derringer]

Nothing wrong with graph paper layouts.

I do all of mine on paper now. The programs just slow me down. Unless of course I'm designing a PCB

[Ben Lyman]

You got any pointers on where to begin?
I tried starting with the +9v and eventually ran into a road block.
I started over again, this time beginning with the input path and the same thing happened.
Should I start somewhere in the middle?
Are there any particular components that should be kept
far apart from each other?
THANKS AGAIN!!!

[Kipper4]

I sometime start at the input and work my way along to the output and keep the in away from the out. Opposite sides of the board.
Rather than litterally copying the componants in their orientation in the schematic try putting them all vertical. so they snake around.
leave the power supply till last.
set out your power rails. sometimes you will need to make the ground go round 3 sides of the pcb.
This made sense in my head when i wrote it. i hope it comes across right.

[Ben Lyman]

Perfect sense Kipper, thanks!

[Ben Lyman]

I think this is close, actually I hope it's dead on. Can anyone tell me which lugs of the tone pot go where so I don't end up with backwards turning knobs?
The green port is input, red is +9v and ground can go somewhere right there too I guess, blue is LED light.
On top under F&G are two brown ports for the tone pot, under R&T are two yellows for the fuzz pot. I can figure out the fuzz pot but I don't know which part of the tone ports is bass or treble.
And, as always, point out any boo-boo's or no-no's.
Thanks!

[Kipper4]

Just had a quick check look all ok to me Ben

[Ben Lyman]

Thanks Kipper! I tried to bend your idea into a horse shoe. I hope it works