First Overdrive based on Blue Collar

[DottJ]

sorry i don't understand ...

dottj, if you keep saying

and please please please

we'll be getting your coat.

I hope that's not too obtuse a reference?

[DottJ]

Thanks for the guide. i have a question regarding the 3PDT. what i saw there ( how to connect this part ) http://www.guitarpcb.com/PDF%20Files/A%20Beginners%20Guide%20to%20Effects%20Pedal%20Components.pdf
is different from this
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.it/2012/02/offboard-wiring.html

Last question is: on this layout i saw that  there is gain 2&3 starting from the same position. i have to connect 2 cable or 1 and than putting a cable from position 2 to 3 pot?

Here's a wee read for you posted elsewhere on the forums but.......we are here to please, please, please after all...

A beginners guide to effects pedal components:

http://www.guitarpcb.com/PDF%20Files/A%20Beginners%20Guide%20to%20Effects%20Pedal%20Components.pdf

I'll get ma coat!

[mcknib]

The 3pdt wiring diagrams do the same thing they're just wired slightly differently they both connect the pcb circuit in and out to the in and out jack tips and both connect the LED to ground to light it in effects mode or the other way to bypass mode. I use this method because I find it easy to remember so you can use either method and decide which you prefer the tagboard one grounds your jacks and input so I'd use that one for this build.

This may explain the 3PDT wiring better although it is explained in the doc you have 3 poles (3P) the columns 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 and 7,8,9 and 2 or double throws (DT) 1,4,7 at the top and 3,6,9 at the bottom with the middle being the common row 2,5,8 so for ease of explanation it either switches or throws up connecting 2,5,8 to 1,4,7 effects mode which connects the circuit in and out to the in and out jack tips taking you guitar signal in to the circuit and out through it to your amp and lights the LED or down to 3,6,9 bypass mode turning off the LED joining the in jack straight to the out jack via the jumper between lugs 3 and 9 and bypassing the circuit.




Your gain pot is wired as a variable resistor so you can put one wire to the board from 2 or 3 and connect them together with a small jumper wire on the pot lugs like this:

[DottJ]

Everithing ok now. Just to be sure the pots for tone and Gain have 1-2-3 wired , the volume has only the 3 and presence 2 -3.
The 1-2 for volume and the 1 for presence arte not wired, is it ok? 
The 4558 component has the pin 1 in the left upper point?
If everithing ok, i'll start to wire and quite sure burn in the fire when i'll test it.. 

The 3pdt wiring diagrams do the same thing they're just wired slightly differently they both connect the pcb circuit in and out to the in and out jack tips and both connect the LED to ground to light it in effects mode or the other way to bypass mode. I use this method because I find it easy to remember so you can use either method and decide which you prefer the tagboard one grounds your jacks and input so I'd use that one for this build.

This may explain the 3PDT wiring better although it is explained in the doc you have 3 poles (3P) the columns 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 and 7,8,9 and 2 or double throws (DT) 1,4,7 at the top and 3,6,9 at the bottom with the middle being the common row 2,5,8 so for ease of explanation it either switches or throws up connecting 2,5,8 to 1,4,7 effects mode which connects the circuit in and out to the in and out jack tips taking you guitar signal in to the circuit and out through it to your amp and lights the LED or down to 3,6,9 bypass mode turning off the LED joining the in jack straight to the out jack via the jumper between lugs 3 and 9 and bypassing the circuit.




Your gain pot is wired as a variable resistor so you can put one wire to the board from 2 or 3 and connect them together with a small jumper wire on the pot lugs like this:

[mcknib]

Volume 1 goes to ground volume 2 is the circuit output if you look at the notes on the vero layout or connections on the schematic.

Presence 1 is not connected

The 4558 does have pin 1 on the upper left if you look closely you will see a shaded notch at the top of the IC this indicates pin 1 is to the left of it - the actual IC itself will either have a notch, a dot or both on it's body pin numbers are set out like this regardless of whether it's an 8 pin or a 16 pin or whatever you would always read the pins from the notch pin 1 to the left down up and around in a U shape:



Just take your time and do as you are - ask as many questions as you like if you're making it on vero just in case you don't know - remove any possible oxidation by cleaning the copper side with a light sanding until it's shiny not dull then give it a wipe, when it comes to populating the vero board I would normally do the cuts and links first then the usual - solder the smaller profile components on first resistors - diodes - IC socket - ceramic capacitors - film caps and electro caps and finally wiring, pots etc.

You can make your cuts using a small drill bit what I normally do is on the component side of the board poke a resistor leg through where the cut should be e.g row 1 hole or column 3 on the top left mark it then cut it on the copper side and continuity check it's not connected to the holes either side of it then do the next one and so on for the links or jumpers I use cut off component legs obviously making sure it doesn't short on anything. The 3 links on this are all around the IC the only one I'd be careful with is the one that goes down from the 4558 pin 4 over the 2 cuts to the bottom row making sure it doesn't touch the 22u body

Good luck and have fun

[duck_arse]

[history] way back when he was alive, James Brown used to do a song called, or at least containing, "Please, please, please". it would often be the last song he'd do, and would get very worked up and emotional, such that he would be overcome, and collapse at the mic. one of his band members would appear on stage with his robe, wrap it around his shoulders, and help James off.

but Mr Brown was made of stern stuff, and would regain enough strength to return to the mic, for another round of pleading, viz "please, please, etc". and then he would be overcome again, be re-robe-ed (he'd shrug it off each time), etc. it was called "putting on a show".
[/history]
[etiquette] rightly or wrongly, many members here will take every opportunity they think they see to crack wise. with the jokes, gags, japes, funny photos. sometimes, they will even wait until the original poster's question has been answered to their satisfaction. the general etiquette, when making one of these gags, is to indicate that you are aware of how bad said joke is/is going to be, by saying - "I'll get my/me/mae coat", an indicator that you are just about to exit, into the cold, outside.

some jokes are made so subtlely that others, realising the cleverness, offer to get your coat for you. so, you see, when you said "please, please, please", I said "I'll get your coat", refereing to the great man himself, the Godfather of Soul, Mister James Brown.
[/etiquette]

I'll get me coat.

[DottJ]

ahahahahhaaha
now i understand !!!!

[history] way back when he was alive, James Brown used to do a song called, or at least containing, "Please, please, please". it would often be the last song he'd do, and would get very worked up and emotional, such that he would be overcome, and collapse at the mic. one of his band members would appear on stage with his robe, wrap it around his shoulders, and help James off.

but Mr Brown was made of stern stuff, and would regain enough strength to return to the mic, for another round of pleading, viz "please, please, etc". and then he would be overcome again, be re-robe-ed (he'd shrug it off each time), etc. it was called "putting on a show".
[/history]
[etiquette] rightly or wrongly, many members here will take every opportunity they think they see to crack wise. with the jokes, gags, japes, funny photos. sometimes, they will even wait until the original poster's question has been answered to their satisfaction. the general etiquette, when making one of these gags, is to indicate that you are aware of how bad said joke is/is going to be, by saying - "I'll get my/me/mae coat", an indicator that you are just about to exit, into the cold, outside.

some jokes are made so subtlely that others, realising the cleverness, offer to get your coat for you. so, you see, when you said "please, please, please", I said "I'll get your coat", refereing to the great man himself, the Godfather of SOul, Mister James Brown.
[/etiquette]

I'll get me coat.

[DottJ]

Hi all,
this are 4 images about my wiring.
i've check twice every components but if you see something wrong advice me.

Tomorrow i'll install the JRC4558 and than i wire the pot etc...

Waiting for your opinion and check. thanks

http://postimg.org/image/wakbco8bx/
http://postimg.org/image/qe8yq9v7l/
http://postimg.org/image/7pbj21zy7/
http://postimg.org/image/qe8yq9v7l/

[mcknib]

Don't have time to check all the values etc got to go to my bed for work! but make sure that links not touching the 22uF did you drill the holes on the copper side? kinda looks like you did it from the component side not that it really matters as long as there's no continuity on the copper side and are you going to use a socket for the 4558 always a good idea saves it from heat damage and you can change it easily




Your resistors all look to be the correct value can't really see the 220R but if it's red red brown gold it's correct diodes ok you can't actually see every connection so wire it up and go and hopefully it'll be fine anyway up early so night night

[DottJ]

Hi, this is the back
http://s11.postimg.org/qeohw0n9f/IMG_3177.jpg I have drill like you say in some post.

just one thing, when you say  "but make sure that links not touching the 22uF" you mean in the upper side or in the back where is settled??? in front, nothing touch the 22uf but in the back, the copper is connected between the link and the 22uf like the layout.

Don't have time to check all the values etc got to go to my bed for work! but make sure that links not touching the 22uF did you drill the holes on the copper side? kinda looks like you did it from the component side not that it really matters as long as there's no continuity on the copper side and are you going to use a socket for the 4558 always a good idea saves it from heat damage and you can change it easily




Your resistors all look to be the correct value can't really see the 220R but if it's red red brown gold it's correct diodes ok you can't actually see every connection so wire it up and go and hopefully it'll be fine anyway up early so night night

[duck_arse]

in front (the component side), nothing should touch. the general rule is 1 hole, 1 wire. some layout-ers will cheat, and put two wires into a single hole to easy-up their layout. on the back (copper or solder side), you want only the solder touching the copper and the component lead/link/wire - good connections.

and! I look at your copper side, you need to get a sharp knife (exacto, scalpel, snap-blade retractable) and, where you have drilled to break the tracks, cut the little slivers of copper, like half-moons/crescents/whiskers. this will save you pain later as they may be microscopic shorts.

[DottJ]

Hi all, i've finished wiring the board but when i try to wire all together i saw this picture and i have a question.

I saw in this picture the component marked in red... what is it? i haven't bought and now i have to take 1 to finish my pedal...
http://postimg.org/image/cshw8s43j/


Is it correct the wiring in this image? i don't know if the connection between the jack and the power is ok.. i have to solder the tall or the short pin in the power component?
http://postimg.org/image/f40fysrpx/


thanks

[mcknib]

Not sure what component you're talking about there are a few things in red is it the ? mark - the enclosure

You'd wire your DC jack like this obviously if you're not using a battery snap you'd just leave the middle connection the +9v is where the pcb +9v goes to and ground for your main ground connection



if you are using a battery snap you'd need a stereo input jack with your battery snap wired like this



I'd advise you just follow the tagboard off board wiring link you posted if you're not going to include a battery snap and stick to it and you'll be fine.

*EDIT* Or follow this the connections do the same thing on the 3pdt just wired slightly differently as already mentioned and it's a lot clearer which lugs you use on the DC jack and it shows clearly everything you need to ground the DC jack, the in and out jacks, the circuit board and the 3pdt switch

[Cozybuilder]

The convention we use is the center conductor is ground or 0V, the ring connection is positive voltage. On the 2-conductor mini power jack pictured, the shorter lug is 0V, the longer lug is positive voltage. Usually you will use a 9V power source, but it could be something different.

[DottJ]

i don't use battery.

The first question is about the component in your schema wiring called CLR ( current limitor resistor) .what is it? What component i have to buy

Not sure what component you're talking about there are a few things in red is it the ? mark - the enclosure

You'd wire your DC jack like this obviously if you're not using a battery snap you'd just leave the middle connection the +9v is where the pcb +9v goes to and ground for your main ground connection



if you are using a battery snap you'd need a stereo input jack with your battery snap wired like this



I'd advise you just follow the tagboard off board wiring link you posted if you're not going to include a battery snap and stick to it and you'll be fine.

*EDIT* Or follow this the connections do the same thing on the 3pdt just wired slightly differently as already mentioned and it's a lot clearer which lugs you use on the DC jack and it shows clearly everything you need to ground the DC jack, the in and out jacks, the circuit board and the 3pdt switch

[mcknib]

CLR = Current limiting resistor a resistor used to stop too much current going to the LED and burning it out I use anything from a 1K8 to a 4K7 resistor depending on how bright you want the LED to be.

The lowest I'd use is a 1K resistor your resistor CLR choice would depend on a few things the power your LED can handle and what kind of LED it is for example a super bright would need a bigger value CLR to make dimmer than a standard brightness LED.

But rather than complicate things if you want it bright use 1K8 if you don't use a 2K2, 3K3, 4K7 for your CLR resistor

You can of course go even further and use an LED resistance calculator like this:

http://www.theledlight.com/resistancecalculator.html 

[duck_arse]

dottj, in this diagram, which I think we established was "the" circuit ......



.... in the bottom left corner, shows the led hanging under a 4k7 resistor. that 4k7 is the CLR for your led. do you have that resistor fitted on your board? I don't think I can see it on your build photos.

[DottJ]

HI all, this afternoon i've tested the pedal.

The led works, the signal came out ( when is not on the guitar is clean so the true bypass is ok).

when i click, i have no signal. it is completely silent.

i have done this picture to show how i have wired the pedal. i could not understand from the image the in the 3pdt "Please note Green input to ground wired." but i don't think it is the reason of the problem.
do you have any suggestion?

thanks

[mcknib]

Doesn't look like you've got power +9v to the pcb there should be a +9v wire going from the hole below tone 2 to your DC jack too unless you've accidentally left it out on your drawing

The green wire would just ground the input in bypass

[DottJ]

mmmm I thought it was for the battery !! silly me !!tomorrow i try with this mod.... thanks! p.s. could you please check the other my post? i think the problem is the resistence in the led tube screamer because i change the led and is still invisible light.. but i don't know where is it to change with a 4k7.