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Drilling PCBs

Started by bifbangpow, January 28, 2016, 05:54:11 PM

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bifbangpow

So I have been having a little trouble lately drilling my circuit boards.  Despite using the dremel press, and the right sized bit and speed (according to threads here), I am finding that my holes come out a bit off center, (some so much so that I'm not sure the board is even usable... does the entire hole need to be surrounded by copper all the way around to work?). Other times it seems if I lower the drill too far down before pulling up again, the bit breaks off (specially since it is such a small bit .7 i think).  I suppoe it's possible that I've been out of practice for awhile and have just lost my finess, but I wanted to run this past you all for support. Tips?
Keep on keepn on.

armdnrdy

I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

amptramp

You may need to get a Dremel drill press so you can mount your Dremel in it and get a totally perpendicular plunge into the board.  This way, you can see where the drill is going to cut and centre its position before you go through the board:


GiovannyS10

#3
Hi bifbangpow.

So, i only have cheap tools. When i started i drilled my PCBs with one "generic dremel" like this:



Its very horrible to work with, but i accustom with few time. I drilled only with this and my hand, not used other tools. All you need is time. Time will make you get better.

But right now i use a PCB puncher. Is very well and useful. Is only hard to press, but you accustom. Sometimes, with larger PCBs my shoulder hurts a bit, but the final work seems very good and professional. You can choice in 4 different sizes of holes... I recommend.



Its cost too much cheap here on Brazil.

I hope i helped you! :)
That's all, Folks!

"Are you on drugs?"
-ARSE, Duck.

www.instagram.com/allecto

PRR

> entire hole need to be surrounded by copper all the way around to work?

Nice but not essential. Even if you miss completely, just bend the lead over so it does touch part of the pad, and solder.

Or stop through-holing. I gave that up decades ago. "Through hole" parts mount fine without holes, if you are not going to jeep it over the Andes mountains. And IF you flip the layout!
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PRR

> use a PCB puncher


I have NEVER seen that!! Google only finds many-K-buck robot machines. If it is a Brasil-only product, you should sell them to the rest of the world.
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davent

If you use pads with small holes for the etch, the drill bit will self-center as you drill, as long as you maintain a very light hold on the pcb so it can shift positions to self center.

I use a 20 mil pad hole no matter the size of the pad or what the needed size of the hole will be.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

GiovannyS10

#7
Quote from: PRR on January 28, 2016, 08:33:15 PM
I have NEVER seen that!! Google only finds many-K-buck robot machines. If it is a Brasil-only product, you should sell them to the rest of the world.

Really? If someone want to buy, i can sell one! :) Is very easy to perforate your pcbs with this
Is like to use a stapler. Only! You put your PCB, press, and voy là! One hole! Hahahaha!
If you want to see a video, i can recorder it!
That's all, Folks!

"Are you on drugs?"
-ARSE, Duck.

www.instagram.com/allecto

PRR

#8
product link at TMG Comércio de Componentes Eletrônicos Ltda

49.80 Brazilian Real equals 12.24 US Dollars today.

I could see Small Bear negotiating $10/each for a full crate, selling near $20 US. With his haggling time, shipping, and cost-of-money, would not be much profit (maybe none, if the import tax-man gets his hooks in), but some. If it works good, maybe he could ask $25 or $30 each. We pay much more for a Dremel which is a poor tool for drilling.

Same/similar but with many sizes of punches and extractors:
http://www.soldafria.com.br/perfurador-de-placas-de-circuito-impresso-mod-pp4-p-1423.html
R$51,18
Same but with just 1.5mm punch:
http://www.soldafria.com.br/perfurador-de-placas-de-circuito-impresso-modelo-pp-3-p-1834.html
R$29,59
Another, at least two punches?
http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-724947666-kit-perfurador-de-placa-circuito-impresso-kp-1-suekit-_JM
R$ 42,00
Another:
https://www.lojacasadosreles.com.br/Perfurador-P--Pci-Placa-Circuito-Impresso-Fenolite-Manual-PP3/prod-1379256/
R$ 35,90
Different version:
http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-704952273-perfurador-de-circuito-impresso-suetoku-_JM
R$ 60,00

Some listings say "Suetoku" which seems to be a local small company. But factory or importers?
Suetoku Ltda
Rua Ernesto Biester 77
Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo, 04777-120 Brazil
+55-1156675381

Total de Empregados 12
Ano de Fundação 1998
Visão Geral - Suetoku Ltda. é uma empresa de componentes eletrônicos diversos localizada no Estado de São Paulo. A organização encontra-se na Rua Ernesto Biester 77. Esta empresa de capital privado foi fundada no ano de 1998 (16 anos atrás). Suetoku Ltda.
Empregados - Atualmente, a organização emprega 12 pessoas (estimado). No Estado de São Paulo, uma empresa tem, em média, entre 3 e 12 empregados.

{robot translation}
Total Employees 12
Foundation year 1998
Overview - Suetoku Ltda. It is a company of various electronic components in the state of São Paulo. The organization is in Ernesto Biester Street 77. This privately held company was founded in 1998 (16 years ago). Suetoku Ltda.
Employees - Today, the organization employs 12 people (estimated). In São Paulo, a business has, on average, between 3 and 12 employees.

This Suetoku seems to be about the same size as Small Bear's operation.
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GiovannyS10

Oh man, i really did not know this puncher is only from Brazil. On this case... I think everyone deserves to can get one... I will work to can provide it for who wants one. Yes, mine is Suetoku too. I can tell their tomorrow, and negotiate prices and other things...

Thanks for all your information. I will work in it!
That's all, Folks!

"Are you on drugs?"
-ARSE, Duck.

www.instagram.com/allecto

slashandburn

Wow. That PCB puncher. That "Shut up and take my Money!" Meme would sum up my feelings perfectly right now if only I could be bothered looking for it.

I'm surprised the OP is having so much trouble with the dremel press (I've never used one, but it is built for this specific purpose, after all) but then I hear there are a few different revisions of that unit amptramp posted, some that apparently flex and wobble more than others.

As Paul said, it just needs to touch make good contact with the pad or trace. It doesn't even need to be pretty. Good luck. Drilling PCBs can be frustrating and tedious enough even without having to change drill bits every few holes.

antonis

Quote from: PRR on January 28, 2016, 08:33:15 PM
I have NEVER seen that!!
You aren't the ONLY one...!!! :icon_eek:

As far as I assume, this is a pressing tool (like hammering a nail..) so maybe PCB will have some cracking problems.. :icon_wink:

Maybe Giovanny will make things clear.. :icon_biggrin:
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

duck_arse

I'm another never see-er (except in gio's video). I'm wondering if it does fibreglass board as well as phenolic. giovanny?
" I will say no more "

bifbangpow

Quote from: davent on January 28, 2016, 09:40:18 PM
If you use pads with small holes for the etch, the drill bit will self-center as you drill, as long as you maintain a very light hold on the pcb so it can shift positions to self center.

I use a 20 mil pad hole no matter the size of the pad or what the needed size of the hole will be.

dave

Interesting. Perhaps I'm holding the PCB too tightly.  I will try loosening my grasp a bit. 

(Definitely drooling over that puncher though)
Keep on keepn on.

bifbangpow

Quote from: PRR on January 28, 2016, 08:31:40 PM
> entire hole need to be surrounded by copper all the way around to work?

Nice but not essential. Even if you miss completely, just bend the lead over so it does touch part of the pad, and solder.

Or stop through-holing. I gave that up decades ago. "Through hole" parts mount fine without holes, if you are not going to jeep it over the Andes mountains. And IF you flip the layout!

That's great to know! Now I can salvage the couple boards I thought I had ruined!
Keep on keepn on.

GiovannyS10

Quote from: slashandburn on January 29, 2016, 05:39:14 AM
Wow. That PCB puncher. That "Shut up and take my Money!" Meme would sum up my feelings perfectly right now if only I could be bothered looking for it.

Hahaha, if you really want one, only MP!  :P

Quote from: antonis on January 29, 2016, 06:05:08 AM
Quote from: PRR on January 28, 2016, 08:33:15 PM
I have NEVER seen that!!
As far as I assume, this is a pressing tool (like hammering a nail..) so maybe PCB will have some cracking problems.. :icon_wink:
I use it for more or less one year, and NEVER cracked. Because the hole where the "nail" pass have the exactly size of the "nail", so, can not to crack....
Quote from: duck_arse on January 29, 2016, 09:33:19 AM
I'm another never see-er (except in gio's video). I'm wondering if it does fibreglass board as well as phenolic. giovanny?
Duck, normally, when i am in a free time, i make holes is all i find... Of paper to lead, its hole very well...
That's all, Folks!

"Are you on drugs?"
-ARSE, Duck.

www.instagram.com/allecto

davent

#16
Something else with the Dremel, if you're using carbide bits with the 1/8" shank, mount them in the Dremel using the appropriate collet rather then the  adjustable chuck, no wobble and much less breakage.

dave

Dremel drill press hack. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=105520.0
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

stringsthings

Quote from: amptramp on January 28, 2016, 07:23:55 PM
You may need to get a Dremel drill press so you can mount your Dremel in it and get a totally perpendicular plunge into the board.  This way, you can see where the drill is going to cut and centre its position before you go through the board:



I've used this press countless times and it works very well.  Using good bits with a larger shank is also recommended

https://www.drillbitcity.com/catalogue/product_detail.asp?Tg=101-10W69-60

garcho

#18
i've used the dremel drill press for etched PCBs many times without any connectivity issues regarding the volume/roundness of the solderable pad and the lead. not one of those boards has ever had perfectly centered holes. as long as you don't drill away the part of the pad that connects to the trace, you're fine.

at some evaluation point, you might find it worthwhile to just order fab'd PCBs from OSH Park or dirty cheap. you won't have to buy dangerous chemicals that will be stored in your home, you won't have to worry about the ironing/photo process, you won't need to buy press n peel or magazine pages or expensive photo stock, you won't have to spend time meticulously checking the traces on your board or troubleshooting the build later only to find out a little bit of one trace didn't etch right, you won't have to buy F4, you won't have to spend many hours designing your board becuase you'll be able to use EagleCAD for free to make auto-routed gerber files (if you want to route them better than auto it would take the same or less than to make an etch layout), no sanding, no toner, etc.
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"...and weird on top!"

davent

Gary, that doesn't sound like very much fun...

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg