Drilling PCBs

[garcho]

EagleCAD is "fun" in its own right

[davent]

I'm a simpleton, i'm staying in the sandbox with ExpressPCB.

dave

[deadastronaut]

If you want to see a video, i can recorder it!

yes please...i'd like to see that in action...and the results.

like many others ive never seen that either...

[Gargaman]

I tried this PCB puncher here in Brazil.
Didn't work for me. The hole dimension is good, although is hard to position where to drill.
Also it didn't last two 5x5cm (20/30 holes) phenolic boards.  For me, total crap. Maybe Giovanny got the real way to work with it.
I went to back to my mini-drill, drilling the non-copper side, getting reasonable results.
I use to draw the traces by hand, after drilling the holes. This ways I never missed a hole anymore..

[GiovannyS10]

If you want to see a video, i can recorder it!

yes please...i'd like to see that in action...and the results.

like many others ive never seen that either...

Ok, i will.

I tried this PCB puncher here in Brazil.
Didn't work for me. The hole dimension is good, although is hard to position where to drill.
Also it didn't last two 5x5cm (20/30 holes) phenolic boards.  For me, total crap. Maybe Giovanny got the real way to work with it.

Really? For me ever worked right... This week i will try to make a new pcb for show you how it works right for me. I am not making propaganda, is only a tip for people here.
Guerilla, can you say me how you are using it on MP? Maybe i am able to help you. Thanks!

But... I think the problem is you are making the holes on the component side to solder side. It can push the copper down, for out from the board. I thought about this when i bought the puncher, so, i NEVER tried to perf from the component side, only from solder side. You understand?

Tente perfurar do lado da solda para o lado dos componentes, ou o furador irá "empurrar" o cobre pra fora da placa. Sempre use o lado do cobre virado para cima. Talvez você também tenha trocado a ponta para uma mais fina, e não mudou o suporte embaixo. O furo do suporte tem que ser da espessura da ponta... Cheque isso e me envie uma MP, talvez eu te ajude.

[davent]

This week's pcb playtime, power supply boards for an amp.

dave

[Cozybuilder]

Those are some good looking boards Dave!

[garcho]

handsome boards Dave!

[deadastronaut]

+1...cool boards..

thats got to be the cleanest hammer ever too..

[Gargaman]

I'd like to sorry about my manners on the the other reply, I didn't mean to be rude or selfish; maybe I did that.
Well, in the spirit of this awesome forum, I wish to add that I got one Giovanny's buncher looking for a good size hole. Seems like I used the tool in the wrong way (I'm sure this is very common with begginers as me) and maybe it was an inferior brand, I can't remember. I'm learning while making and I use very few and cheap tools also, Giovanny, but the buncher didn't choose me. The way I found to get centered holes was to drill before etching. Since I make the traces manually with a sharpie pen (copy visually from a layout picture)  I have to position the holes on the components side and perforate. It's kind of trick flipping layouts back and forth, I still get confused after some boards. To perforate I use the 5th bit of this image
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mmdNEhjUQJhsC7_fez5uKAg.jpg
When drilling I use a metal plate under the copper side that holds the bit as soon as the cooper has been perforated. I finished the hole by passing a component lead through. For bigger holes (like wire and DPDT lugs I  use a 1mm bit, I guess, this model:
http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/Dremel%20Rotary%20Tool%20Bit%20Cutting%20Bits,%20561%20(EN)%20r19822v15.jpg
This one goes straight through.
I didn't get that point tha Gary mentionated yet, I'm still on small and begginers circuits, everything is just fun!
Very beautifull boards, Dave! Do you use this big dremel press??

I think a good word for simpleton in portuguese is "simprão"

[davent]

Thanks everyone!

Rob the hammer's a small jeweler's "chasing hammer" that i did buy expressly for flattening the backs of eyelets, not very much money and performs exactly as hoped, makes my anal self very happy.



Gabriel i first drill all the holes with the upside down Dremel press and laptop so i can see what i'm doing  (a #71 carbide bit covers most of the holes). Then i use the press in the normal position to redrill the few holes that need to be bigger. A #70 will be my go to size after i finish breaking all my #71's and need to order more.

Thanks again,
dave

dave

[GiovannyS10]

Veeeeery awesome boards, Dave!

I understand you Gabriel. Is normal. Today i continue with some issues with make PCBs, but if i can help you with somethings, you can call me, man! We are Brazilians, we understand ourselves. 

[amptramp]

Thanks everyone!

Rob the hammer's a small jeweler's "chasing hammer" that i did buy expressly for flattening the backs of eyelets, not very much money and performs exactly as hoped, makes my anal self very happy.



Gabriel i first drill all the holes with the upside down Dremel press and laptop so i can see what i'm doing  (a #71 carbide bit covers most of the holes). Then i use the press in the normal position to redrill the few holes that need to be bigger. A #70 will be my go to size after i finish breaking all my #71's and need to order more.

Thanks again,
dave

dave

Of course, it helps to be from Hammer Mountain.  Hammers grow on trees there as can be seen from the wood branch sprouting from the hammer head.

[davent]

The legacy of Mark Hammer having lived here in this fair city...
dave

[davent]

Follow-up, Mosfets get added/soldered in once everything gets mounted in the chassis.

dave

[Cozybuilder]

Your workmanship is absolutely artistic! Can't wait to see the finished amp.

[davent]

Thanks Russ, it's a race to the finish... wedge- amp, wedge - amp, i'm a very reluctant, wandering finisher, blah, some day.
dave