Sanity check for Dunlop 535Q Mods

[navin]

Ok I know this topic has been done to death. I am looking at buying a wah but could not find any that I liked. I saw (in my order of preference) the Fulltone Clyde deluxe, Dunlop MC404 CAE, Dunlop Dimebag, Dunlop Slash SW95, Carl Martin 2Wah, T-Rex Shafter, and the Xotic XW1.

If I had to buy 1 I would have to settle for the Fulltone or CAE. Both have true bypass, buffered output, 2 easy to find sounds (Fulltone's 3rd sound is too wild for me), 12-15db boost, and don't sound too dirty.

Then I saw the Dimebag and figured, it is flexible as hell so why not try and make it "better". The big thing the CAE has is the second (Yellow) Fasel inductor. I liked that sound to cut through. So can one add a second inductor to the Dimebag (with a switch of course)? is there enough room inside the pedal?

Also I wonder if the pedal is really true bypass. The link below claims that the bypass sucks tone (although I did not her this).
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=92387.0

I have not tried the Dimebag with a Fuzz pedal but is the output truly buffered?

Lastly from an aesthetic point of view is there any simple method one can change the paint job on the Dimebag? I don't really care for the camouflage look. The Xotic's white or Slash's Red paint job looked much nicer to me.

[deadastronaut]

''Lastly from an aesthetic point of view is there any simple method one can change the paint job on the Dimebag? I don't really care for the camouflage look. The Xotic's white or Slash's Red paint job looked much nicer to me.''

remove all parts inside..

use a centre punch to push out the treadle rod (non thread side..(comes out one way..thread side)

now you have the bare bones base..

sand with 400-600 wet n dry..

spray primer..white/grey..

light sand when dry...clean..remove residue/dust..

spray colour...(optional clear coat after)

put it back together..

heres a couple of mine....i sanded the tops back to metal too, and added true bypass and light plates..

[navin]

OMG Deadastronaut, that is brilliant work! Simply amazing!

I thought the Damibag Wah already had True Bypass inside it.

Not having the painting skills you have I got to thinking....

what if I start with the 535Q.

add a light for the on/off using a 3PDT switch as shown here
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/dunlop-535q-wah-led-mod.1168208/

Still confused as to where I could stuff a second inductor and a DPDT switch any ideas?

Even better would be to add a Halo option as well along with a RGB 3 color LED to indicate which inductor was active. Ok I am getting ahead of myself. LOL.

[Ben Lyman]

just something to take note of. The feel of the range of motion. I have a Clyde, Fulltone made their enclosure and it's nice, the treadle actually moves over a wider space than my old Thomas crybaby. Didn't take long at all to adjust to the new foot sweep and I like it a lot.
The downside to my Clyde and the reason I went back to my trusty ol Thomas: the my pedal board lid pushes down on the clyde's tall enclosure that it bent the metal platform underneath. Not too big a deal, I lived with it for awhile, then said fkit I'm bending the metal back and going back to the crybaby.

[navin]

just something to take note of. The feel of the range of motion. I have a Clyde, Fulltone made their enclosure and it's nice, the treadle actually moves over a wider space than my old Thomas crybaby. Didn't take long at all to adjust to the new foot sweep and I like it a lot.
The downside to my Clyde and the reason I went back to my trusty ol Thomas: the my pedal board lid pushes down on the clyde's tall enclosure that it bent the metal platform underneath. Not too big a deal, I lived with it for awhile, then said fkit I'm bending the metal back and going back to the crybaby.

I loved the motion on the Clyde Deluxe too. Just that the prmary usable sound for me was the Jimi. The wacked sound was just too wacked for me unless I was just fooling around. With the MC404 on the other hand I could find usable sounds with both the red and yellow Fasels. Which is why I am thinking of adding a second Fasel to the Dimebag or 535Q. The 535Q was only considered because I don't particularly like the look of the Dimebag.

However out of the box, if I did not have soldering skills, the MC404 would be it. 2 very usable sounds. The Fulltone's second sound it also pretty good and the travel of the pedal is excellent. The MC404 was a little easier to dial in, just a wee wee bit. From a pure tonal perspective the Slash Wah sounded nicer than the Dimebag but the Dimebag is uber flexible and that's what got me interested.

I don't use a battery to power any of my pedals and the battery compartment could be used for 2 or maybe even 3 inductors (2 Fasels and a Halo maybe). This is something I have no idea about and would seriously love some help. How does one fit 3 inductors, a DP3T toggle or rotary, and a tri-color RGB led?

If this is not possible I will just get the 404, however given this is a forum with people passionate about DIY I won't be surprised if one of you has a solution and has probably even done this before.

P.S - not related but in case it helps.

I don't play Metal. I am not a professional just do it for fun. I play rock from the 70s. Hendrix, Dire Straits, Eagles, Deep Purple, etc and the obligatory GNR number (everyone still wants to hear Sweet Child).

My rig is basic and is powered by a Truetone CS7. Once I get a Wah, it will be Guitar to Wah to JHS Keeley Steak and Eggs compressor-drive to Earthquake Hoof-Reaper fuzz to a TC Nova for all my modulation (Chorus, Reverb, Flanger...) and then to a 15W Studio or 18W 1974 Marshall (6V6 or EL84) and sometimes to a AC30. The TC also has a lovely compressor and a lovely drive so I have the choice of using the TC or steak and eggs if I tap dance a bit. LOL.

[mfunky]

In terms oft space and flexibility, have a look at this:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=20871.0

[navin]

In terms oft space and flexibility, have a look at this:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=20871.0

Wow that is a crazy build. As explained in the link below my requirements suddenly changed.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113295.0

I am now going to mod a Dunlop 535Q.

These are the changes I hope to make:
1. Change the DPDT switch to a 3PDT switch and use the 3rd pole to turn on LEDs. This is documented here. I hope to install a Blue or Green LED in the top left corner.
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/dunlop-535q-wah-led-mod.1168208/

2. Use the battery compartment to accommodate a Yellow Fasel, Red Fasel, and a Halo (tubesandmore.com has these in stock) and add a rotary switch to switch the inductors and a RGY LED indicator in the top right corner. This has been discussed in the link below but I don't think it was ever implemented. I need some help: for example is there enough room to stick a rotary switch next the the existing 6 way rotary?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=92387.0

Will a 2 pole 6 way rotary switch do? First pole switches between L1, L2, L3, L1+L2, L2+L3, and L1+L3 and the second pole switches a Red, Yellow, Green (GRY) to make Red, Yellow, Green, Orange, etc ? Where can one get a Red, Yellow, Green LED as shown below?
http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9031

Anyone know which retailer will sell me a single GRY or BRY LED?

I wonder why GGG used a 3 pole 3 way switch instead of a 1 pole 4 way switch here. Any ideas.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_wah_mod2_lo.pdf

3. Change the caps on the existing 5 way rotary switch to provide for a wider range. Does anyone know what are the existing stock cap values on the 5 way rotary switch.

[MrStab]

Dimebag DB-01 wah isn't True Bypass and is all SMT components. dunno about the DB-02. if you look inside, you'll find a latching SPDT (well, DPDT with poles shorted together) to hard-switch a FET on & off.

i managed to TB a DB-01 a few months ago, but it wasn't too easy. it involved unorthodox activities like soldering to the jack lug and hijacking the "Impedance F***er" switch holes (they thought it was a good idea to passively split the signal before the input and put an internal switch to choose between that or a copy of the wah output).

due to the SMT, modding won't be as straightforward (unless you're into that sort of thing).

[navin]

Dimebag DB-01 wah isn't True Bypass and is all SMT components. dunno about the DB-02.

My plans changed MrStab,

I am modding a Dunlop 535Q now. The details of that are here. I could use all the help I can get there.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113295.0

I believe the 535Q too is also SMD but if you look at post #14 in the link below I think others have managed to true-bypass this pedal.
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/dunlop-535q-wah-led-mod.1168208/

Thanks for your reply.

[navin]

In case someone missed the other thread I am listing all the changes here for a sanity check. These mods are for a 535Q and NOT a Dimebag DB01.

1.   Change the DPDT switch to a 3PDT switch and use the 3rd pole to turn on LEDs. This is documented on post #14 in the link below. I hope to install a Blue or Green LED in the top left corner.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113295.0


2.    Use the battery compartment to accommodate a Yellow Fasel, Red Fasel, and a Halo (tubesandmore.com has these in stock) and add a rotary switch to switch the inductors and a RGY LED indicator in the top right corner. Will a 2 pole 6 way rotary switch do? First pole switches between L1, L2, L3, L1+L2, L2+L3, and L1+L3 and the second pole switches a Red, Yellow, Green (GRY) to make Red, Yellow, Green, Orange, etc ? Where can one get a Red, Yellow, Green LED as shown below?
http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/5mm-rgy-round-with-domed-top-leds/39622?mpart=SSL-LX5097SISGSYC&vendor=67&WT.z_ref_page_type=PS&WT.z_ref_page_sub_type=PD&WT.z_ref_page_id=PD&WT.z_ref_page_event=DC_Link_Table

If a 2 pole 6 way switch will work, where on the 535Q is there room to add a 2 pole 6 way switch? Will this brake-before-make switch do? Or is a make-before-break preferred for this application?
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H393

Why did GGG use a 3 pole / 3 way switch to switch between only 3 options (L1, L2, L1+L2)?  Would not a 1 pole 3 way switch have been adequate? http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_wah_mod2_lo.pdf


3.    Change the caps on the existing 6 way rotary switch to provide for a wider range and add a 5M (pop reducing) resistor in the switch. Can this be done on the 535Q?

original schematic without caps


new schematic will look something like this

4.    Add a 10k "fine tune" pot in series with the WAH pot (similar to the 5K resistor added to DimeBag's Wah). How do I tap the wire from the Wah to the existing resistor? Can anyone show me where this wire is?



5. Replace 1K pot in series with inductor with 2.2K pot OR replace 33K resistor with series combination of 10K resistor and 22K pot. Which is preferable?

[navin]

Hi guys,

I just realized I made a huge mistake in the inductor switching schematic. The old schematic would have the inductors in parallel in positions 4, 5, and 6. I have now rectified this and am posting a schematic which I hope will have inductors as follows:
Position 1 - L1
Position 2 - L2
Position 3 - L3
Position 4 - L1+L2
Position 5 - L1+L3
Position 6 - L1+ L2//L3

Will the scheme below work?


Can I use this 4 pole 6 way switch?
http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/Rotary_Switches.html

Can I use a 2 pole 6 way switch in place of the existing 6 way capacitor change switch and use the second pole to turn on some LED so I know which position the switch is in?

Stewmac also has the 3PDT stomp switch I would need for the LED indicator mod
http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/3PDT_Stomp_Switch.html

So in effect I am looking to make 5 or 6 Mods (see my earlier post).

1. Change the DPDT switch to a 3PDT switch and use the 3rd pole to turn on an indicator LED
2. Add a Yellow Fasel and a Halo to the existing Red Fasel and switch using a 4 pole 6 way switch (schematic given above)
3. Add a 5M (pop reducing) resistor in the switch and change maybe 3 of the caps.
4. Add a 10k "fine tune" pot in series with the WAH pot
5. Remove 1k pot in series with inductors and replace 33k resistor with series combination of 22K pot and 10K resistor.
6. Replace existing 6 way capacitor switch with 6 way 2 pole switch and use second pole to turn on different LEDs.

A sanity check and any advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

[navin]

Trying not to bump this thread too much but I am really short of people I can ask for help. Not getting any response here I did post on another forum but was re-directed to post here.
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/sanity-check-for-535q-mods.1674504/

To summarize.

The Mods I intend to make are as follows:
1.   Change the DPDT switch to a 3PDT switch and use the 3rd pole to turn on an indicator LED
2.   Add a Yellow Fasel and a Halo to the existing Red Fasel and switch using a 4 pole 6 way switch (schematic given above)
3.   Add a 5M (pop reducing) resistor in the switch and change maybe 3 of the caps.
4.   Add a 10k "fine tune" pot in series with the WAH pot
5.   Remove 1k pot in series with inductors and replace 33k resistor with series combination of 22K pot and 10K resistor.
6.   Replace existing 6 way capacitor switch with 6 way 2 pole switch and use second pole to turn on different LEDs. (optional)

The Parts I would need are;
1.   3PDT switch and white LED http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/3PDT_Stomp_Switch.html
2.   Red Fasel and Halo Inductors, 4 pole 6 way switch, and a RGB LED http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/Rotary_Switches.html https://www.tubesandmore.com/search/node/inductor
3.   6 nos 5M 1/4W resistors and 2 caps (I hope to use the existing 1.2nf, 3.9nf, 6.8nf, 15nf, and 27nf and add a 47nf and 68nf).
4.   10k pot (Dimebag's wah uses a 5K pot).
5.   10k resistor and 22k pot
6.   2 pole 6 way switch and 6 blue LEDs (optional)

I would like to know
1.   Any tips to fit these parts in the 535Q box. For example can I snip the ribbon of the existing 6 way switch and move the switch closer to the main PCB to make room for the 4 pole 6 way inductor switch?
2.   Are the schematics I have posted correct?
3.   Do I need any other parts?
4.   What do I need to watch out for while modding this wah (I will be drilling at least 4 holes - 2 for the LEDs, 1 for the 4 pole 6 way switch and one for the 10k pot)?
5.   Does adding the 5M resistor for the capacitors make sense? Anyone does this?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the bump.

[duck_arse]

navin - a switching problem, we all love those.


I think you should be able to follow the dia above, I couldn't find/make a decent rotary switch in eagle. running inductors in series adds the inductance, you sure you want such massive lumps in yr wah-er? if you go with the full string, you might need to rethink your cap values.

I hope this helps some, might even prompt some others to chip in .....

[navin]

navin - a switching problem, we all love those.


I think you should be able to follow the dia above, I couldn't find/make a decent rotary switch in eagle. running inductors in series adds the inductance, you sure you want such massive lumps in yr wah-er? if you go with the full string, you might need to rethink your cap values. .....

Thank you soooooooooo much!

Wow! this is a far simpler scheme than I envisaged. It saves one pole. I can either use a 2 pole switch and forgo LED indication or try and find a 3 pole rotary (usually rotary switches are 2 or 4 pole). I am not sure what a L1+L2  or L1+L3 will sound like leave along 1.5mH (L1+L2+L3). I expect the sound to be fat as hell but at least the option would be available. I am clear that the Red and Yellow Fasel have distinct sounds. I expect the Halo to have it's own sound. How they will combine, I don't know.

Having the 47nF and 68nf on tap will allow me to use the wah with a Bass guitar in case the need arises. I suspect with any of the series combinations for the inductors will also be useful in the bass.

Meanwhile:

1.            Is the 3PDT switch schematic correct?
2.           Will adding a 5M resistor in the capacitor switch help?
3.           Can I add a 10K in series with the WAH pot? I suspect the 535Q already has the option to add a pot in series with the WAH pot (this is after comparing pics of the Dimebag Wah and the 535Q).
4.          Should I change the 1k pot in series with inductors? People suggest that replacing the 33K resistor with a 10K and a 33K or even 47k pot in series may offer nice tones. Read "Change the Rq to change the "sharpness" of the bandpass" here http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/wahpedl/wahped.htm#tropical
5.           Does one really need a visual indication for the inductors and capacitors?

[duck_arse]

1. as far as I can see, that will true bypass and led indicate at the same time, yes. how many leds did you want to switch with this?
2. if a cap has a hanging terminal, it may pop/will need a pulldown. you can't fit 1 resistor for 6 popping caps. are those caps known to pop when switched? unless you know they popp, don't bother with pulldowns.
3. and 4. are both beyond my qualifications (grade 2 bozo, certified).
5. personal choice/weight of componentry/cash in your pocket.

I think you really need to bung this onto a breadboard before $$$$$, you might change a fair bit of stuff. you can 2p6pos for the circuit I showed, you might find the 3 L's is arse, and go to a fully ledded 3p4pos arrangement. and, you could wind your own potcore inductor, load on a few taps, save plenty of $$ and probs.

and the mojo!

(joe gagan is the man you want for these Q's.)

[navin]

1. as far as I can see, that will true bypass and led indicate at the same time, yes. how many leds did you want to switch with this?
2. if a cap has a hanging terminal, it may pop/will need a pulldown. you can't fit 1 resistor for 6 popping caps. are those caps known to pop when switched? unless you know they popp, don't bother with pulldowns.
3. and 4. are both beyond my qualifications (grade 2 bozo, certified).
5. personal choice/weight of componentry/cash in your pocket.

I think you really need to bung this onto a breadboard before $$$$$, you might change a fair bit of stuff. you can 2p6pos for the circuit I showed, you might find the 3 L's is arse, and go to a fully ledded 3p4pos arrangement. and, you could wind your own potcore inductor, load on a few taps, save plenty of $$ and probs.

and the mojo!

(joe gagan is the man you want for these Q's.)

Thanks again duck_arse.

1. I intend to switch just a single white LED on with the 3PDT switch.
2. I intend to have individual resistors for each cap as shown in the schematic below. http://www.4shared.com/download/g81tBuySce/capacitor_with_bleed_resistor_.jpg?sbsr=62a3e4e93851959407a90e9a0bba67f6967&lgfp=3000

3. I can assume this will work because The Dimebag Wah has a 5K pot at this location.
4. This one is confusing because both a series pot such as the existing 1K and a parallel pot such as the schematic change I suggested will change the effective Q of the circuit. Which one will sound better is something I don't know.
5. I only suggested this because I could not find a 3 pole 5/6 position switch anywhere. If we don't need visual indication I could do with a 2 pole switch. It would be more likely to fit too given the limited confines of a Wah.

I don't know how to read Mr. Gagan. Is he a member here?

Your last idea of rolling a single multi-tap inductor is an exciting one. How would a DIY inductor compare to a Fasel or a Halo? Can on pot the inductor using epoxy or does one have to use melted wax? Epoxy is easier for me.

Rolling my own inductor (if it sound the same as a Halo or Fasel) would mean I can use a 3 pole 4 position switch and have taps at 450mH, 550mH, 650mH, and 750mH. Perfect for a 4 way switch, the 3rd pole can switch on a single RGB LED where putting all 3 LED parts on will give a colour for the 4th position.

Thanks again duck_arse you have helped more than you know. You are getting me to think louder and are also correcting many of my errors. Thanks a lot.

[duck_arse]

see, now you're getting excited.

re 2. that dia is wrong, I think. the end of the caps that has the long string of 5M resistors are all shorted together, I'm assuming that end is pemanently connected to some more of the circuit, so the plates of the caps at that end are all always at the same potential. those resistors are effectively all shorted out.

the 1n2 and the 3n9 - as drawn, which is all I have to go on - are also permanently in parallel, so ~5n1 total, and always connected to the 10k resistor. it's all the caps below this point that, as you can see, have floating plates, swinging in the breeze. each of those empty circles will need a pull-down/-up/-to something resistor.

a switch circuit should clearly show where the common connection is, and where it actually connects to, so an arm with an arrow, like.

4. a pot in series with a something will only affect the something while it is set to other than 0 Ohms. how's that for a mangled sentence? so you wind the pot to 0, and it effectively is not there. similar for the parallel pot, when it goes to a value higher than something (68k is often sweet acros the L, so ~500k would probably be high enuff) it has as good as no effect.

5. mark hammer (the great man) will often suggest a chicken head knob, because of how well they indicate. personally, I haven't built a pedal I could put a chicken head on, I don't much like the look.

Mr Gagan (the great man) is a member on this very forum. you can search some threads on wahs to find his profile, or member search for him.

rolling your own inductor. I have about 3 I've done laying about, but have no idea what the real commercial inductors tones are to compare. I used a threadline fishing reel of the nearly right size to wind mine. gagan may even have the cores and formers for winding. you might wind your own tone, better than all those named.

and if you have a single tapped coil, you only need to switch from tap to tap, so a single pole. more positions! more taps! and leds!

[navin]

see, now you're getting excited.

re 2. that dia is wrong, I think. .... those resistors are effectively all shorted out.

the 1n2 and the 3n9 - as drawn, ....

4. a pot in series with a something will only affect the something while it is set to other than 0 Ohms. ... similar for the parallel pot, when it goes to a value higher than something...it has as good as no effect.

5. mark hammer (the great man) will often suggest a chicken head knob

Mr Gagan (the great man) is a member on this very forum.

and if you have a single tapped coil, you only need to switch from tap to tap, so a single pole. more positions! more taps! and leds!

Dear duck_arse,

You have been most helpful.  I live in Mumbai, India and no one here as any idea of what a Wah is leave alone modding a wah. If you ever are in Mumbai, I owe you a beer, heck I owe you a whole case of beer.

I am trying to rationalize the number of LEDs. This is after all a WAH pedal not a Christmas tree. LOL.
So I figure:
1 LED to indicate if the pedal is on. I would like to have some way to indicate if the boost is on and use a bi-color LED to indicate both: boost is on and pedal is on.
1 RGB LED to indicate which inductor is being used
1 RGB LED to indicate which capacitor is being used

I cannot find a 3 pole rotary switch in India so I might have to use a 4 pole switch for the inductor switching (I need 2 poles for your schematic and a 3rd pole for the LED switching).

I made a huge mistake in the capacitor schematic. This one might work


This is the original capacitor switch circuit



I agree that a pot in series is only in circuit once it is above 0k ohms. Similarly a 1M pot in parallel will do nothing. I understand that. The current scheme has a 1k pot in circuit in series with the inductor and a 39k resistor in parallel with the inductor. People who have modded the GCB 95 (which does NOT have the 1k pot in series) have replaced the 39k resistor with a series combination of a 10k resistor and a 33k or 47k pot. Hence I was wondering if the later option might do something different than a 1k, 2.2k or 4.7k series pot.


I too don't like the look of chicken head knobs. Yes they are functional but they look ugh. I am going for a wah that will look something like this (in black though)


I assume that the 3PDT schematic I posted earlier is good. There is a short tutorial on this LED addition in post 14 in the link below. I hope that is correct as well. http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/dunlop-535q-wah-led-mod.1168208/

On looking at this tutorial I noticed in the 3rd picture that the 535 has the PCB prepared for a 5k or 10k pot in series with the Wah pedal (100k).
Maybe if I am lucky (I am yet to receive the 535Q) my pedal will have this and I can hence just stick the 10k pot in (after removing the short).


I tried rolling an inductor around a ferrite core today. I use 25SWG wire and only managed 400uH. 400mH is a long way off. I am going to make one more attempt with 32 SWG wire tomorrow or the day after.  Tapping the coil takes some delicate hands so I wonder if I can pull that off.

I tried looking for Mr. Gagan today and I found a lot of posts about him. Lets see if I can find the time and courage tomorrow to trouble him.

Thanks again.

[duck_arse]

SWG - gah! every time I run into swg sizings, I need to cross reference and convert. anyway, 25swg seems about 0.5mm - waaayyyy too big for a wah L. the 32swg/~0.2mm is much more like it. then it depends on your potcore size.

as for taps, they are easy, you just stop winding, pull the wire out a way and double it over, twist it, and carefully start winding again. there are some proper ways to wind and anchor taps, but for a wah? and I used to use clear nail varnish - put a dob across the winding as you go, and it squeezes itself into the cracks. (probably not the best method, but it works.)

what parts houses do you have available there? and it's not kingfisher beer, I hope.


oh - and if you think "it's not a christmas tree", go over to the 'building your own wah' (I think that's the thread) and look at deadastro's work. Joe's got stuff there too.

[navin]

SWG - gah! every time I run into swg sizings

as for taps, they are easy, you just stop winding, pull the wire out a way and double it over, twist it, and carefully start winding again. ... and I used to use clear nail varnish - put a dob across the winding as you go, and it squeezes itself into the cracks.

what parts houses do you have available there? and it's not kingfisher beer, I hope.

oh - and if you think "it's not a christmas tree", go over to the 'building your own wah' (I think that's the thread) and look at deadastro's work. Joe's got stuff there too.

Thank you sir duck_arse. About them beers, we have a wide choice in Mumbai, my current favorite is something called Bira White Ale. http://www.bira91.com/

I assume the revised capacitor scheme with the anti-thump resistors is ok.

Nice idea about them taps and clear nail varnish. Since I have no data on the ferrite core I would have to experiment as to how many turns would give me 300mH, 450mH, 600mH, 750mH etc..

As far as electronic parts are concerned I have to import most everything from places like allparts, tubesandmore and stewmac.

I did a lot of searching and could not find any thread on "build your own wah"  but I found these...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93036.420
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=108633.0
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.0
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93036.360
and this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icLXOIDcWA
and this website
http://deadastronaut.wix.com/index

To be honest I am not too much into lights and pizzaz. I like "sleeper" systems. Systems that look ordinary but have been "quietly" modded. So I figured 3 LEDs is more than enough. 1 for the inductors, 1 for the caps, and 1 to indicate on/off (and if I could get it to indicate the boost on/off as well it would be great).

Anyway while doing some reading I noticed the 535Q and the Dimebag Wah are pretty similar (at least from the outside).

This is the 535Q schematic.


This is the Dimebag schematic.


I noticed that Dunlop uses some rather complicated scheme to turn on the LEDs on the Dimebag wah. Can these mods be done to the 535Q?


I also realized that I had missed that the 3PDT switch is not connected to the input jack so if I leave the wah on and pull out the input jack the LED will continue to be on. Not much of a practical issue as one can switch the wah off.

Thanks again.