contact cleaner for pots...

[thermionix]

DeOxit D5.  It's expensive but pays for itself in the long run.  Many times over for those of us who use it professionally. 

CRC makes stuff that seems to work...for a while...then you're back at it a month later.

Never, EVER use WD-40 on electronic components!  NEVER!

[vigilante397]

Never, EVER use WD-40 on electronic components!  NEVER!

Sorry

[bluebunny]

Oh you're in trouble.  No Kirk Hammett thread for you for a month. WD40 indeed.

No Tayda discounts for you, Nathan, for a whole six months! Not that you might notice...

[italianguy63]

I think WD-40 is actually a fish oil.  It does get gummy after time.. not a good choice!  Poor Nathan...

[tommycataus]

Tremendous response guys, thanks for your input! And poor Nathan...

I, er, already bought the one in the link as it's a 5 minute trip from my house. Seems to be ok though. It's also made by whoever manufactures WD40 so that could be a mistake! If things don't work out then I'll definitely take your advice. Much appreciated.

[duck_arse]

you need to ask yourself, tommy - wwku.

what would kirk use?

[Gus]

I have been experimenting cleaning potentiometers with openings in the back with degassed distilled water in an ultrasonic cleaner.  This is if you can remove the potentiometer from the device.

Anyone else try ultrasonic cleaning?

[blackieNYC]

Oh yea, as pointed out earlier, dropper bottles are essential.  spray will get all over the place, or you'll use delicate little blasts and run out of propellant long before lube.
Like I said, I'm an LPS-1 guy (a recording studio standard, when studios needed such things), but I've heard lots of good things about particular dioxit products (both Caig and LPS make things that are not recommended for this.  I'm not seeing my favorite LPS product at MCM)
The right Deoxit is available in a dropper http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/200-208

War story time. I've successfully done ultrasonic bathing on a Neve console's oxidized switches.  I don't recommend it for your purposes -Here's what we decided had to be done though:  The switches were horribly corroded.  This console sat in Andrew Lloyd Weber's storage space for years.  Switches and pots need to be used - period. Drastic measures were taken. "Tarn-X", used on silverware.  Nasty stuff.  you dip a 200 year old piece of silver in it and it comes out like new.  But you have to clean it off. We Tarn-X-ed the exposed rotary switches. We used the ultrasonic to clean off the TarnX. The ultrasonic bath is great, but with any cleaner, you run the risk of flushing out all the original lubricant (there is) and the risk of losing the part.  Seems the contacts can tear each other up if there's no lube at all.  The ultrasonic had a citrus cleaner in it - just water isn't enough.  The ultrasonic solution therefore had to  be cleaned out as well. With  plain distilled water in the ultrasonic.  Then a non-lubricating electronic cleaner.  Evaporation, then the lubricant.  All this worked very very well, but again,
     I don't recommend plain cleaner because the original lubricant in there may have let you down but it is still your friend.

(Still awake? for modern conductive plastic faders, the PTFE dry-lube stuff is best.  dries to a powder, then you buff it off.  Not for the inside of a pot or switch.)

[vigilante397]

Poor Nathan...

And actually it wasn't even my amp, so poor that guy

[bluebunny]

you need to ask yourself, tommy - wwku.

what would kirk use?

WWKI, surely??  (What would Kirk invent?)   

And actually it wasn't even my amp, so poor that guy

Ssshh!  We won't tell!   

[PRR]

> I think WD-40 is actually a fish oil.

WD-40 is kerosene. Fancy-spec kerosene (just a sliver of all the fractions sold for lamps/heaters), but that's all it is.

It DOES evaporate (keeps you coming back).

It can attract dirt.

It shouldn't gum-up much.
_______________________

Contact Cleaners: there are ALL kinds of contacts. Engine starter relays. Micro-switches. Some need a harsh cutting cleaner. Some will just dissolve in the stuff used for BIG contacts.

Stabilant and De-Ox are at least aimed at the general class of contacts most folks here deal with. They are super-expensive per gallon, but a micro-drop may be all you need.

Tarn-X, sheesh. (Anhydrous Aluminum Silicate) I can see why _you_ had to go there. I think you agree most folks should stay out of Mr Weber's storage shed.

[tommycataus]

Funnily enough, I reckon Kirk would just invent a "new" wah pedal, probably from the same line as his unique tube screamer variant...

I found out a while back that for the sealed pots (Joe Gagan), they can be easily disassembled and cleaned gently with a bit of kitchen towel. They are great!

That console sounds crazy Blackie. Thankfully mine are not quite so bad as that! Useful info too PRR. I never realised this subject would be so in depth.

[thermionix]

I should add, I didn't notice at first that you said wah pots.  If you have the sealed (J-style) type, I have never found a good method for saving those once they go scratchy.  I've opened them up and tried various cleaners, nothing worked.  Replacement is my recommendation.