Tayda Englisman

[no6h]

I have built a kit Lovepedal Englishman from Tayda electronics, and the pedal works in bypass, but whenever I engage the pedal it doesn't let any sound through. I currently don't have a multimeter, but am looking to get one, so I can probe for continuity across all the components and continuity from input to output. Is this the best way of doing it?

[Cozybuilder]

Without photos, its hard to help you. However, check to see that you didn't mix up the input and output jacks- its a very common problem with the symptom you describe.

[induction]

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.msg202738#msg202738

[no6h]

Hey, thanks for the replies. Sorry for the lack of information. I will post some photographs later, but now I can give you the rest of the information. Once I have a multimeter I will probe the transistor pins, and get the voltages from that. The input and output jacks are wired correctly, I just double checked. Here is the link to the instructions I followed. I followed their order of soldering the components.

http://www.taydakits.com/instructions/english-man

Here is the schematic

[Kipper4]

If you have an audio probe in the meantime while you wait to get a DMM. You could check your getting audio in the right places.
Google audio probe.
Google how to use it.
Build it. It's something you will make good use of in the future.
Then trace the audio from input to output. (Others do it out to in)
So the audio path input to out is
Places to check
Input
Middle pin (base) of 2n5088
Before and after c2
Pin3 of the vol r9 pot.
Hope this helps
Rich

[no6h]

Thanks, I will check those points and reply later.

[Kipper4]

Without photos, its hard to help you. However, check to see that you didn't mix up the input and output jacks- its a very common problem with the symptom you describe.

Cozy makes a good point here and you may have wired them correctly, but I think what he was getting at was maybe you put the guitar cable in the output Jack and vice versa the amp cable in the input Jack.
It wouldn't be the first time I've done it and many more beside.

Also it's a good idea to test the circuits before you wire up the bypass switching. If that's what you did.
Rock it before you box it as we say round here.

[no6h]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/other-electronics/other/auction-1043387639.htm

Is this a good multimeter?

[no6h]

I just probed it, and I got a signal at all of those points you specified...

[no6h]

Hey thanks I have solved my problem I think. When I first soldered up the project the DPDT switch with the diodes melted, so I removed it from the circuit and didn't add it back. I'm now getting a signal through but no clipping, from the diodes. I'll solder it up on Monday, and get back to you then. Thanks again, No6h.

[Lukie]

Hi did you ever get this working? I have a very similar problem with my tayda englishman PCB, sound in bypass only (tried switching input/output jacks just in case, but no change). I noticed two small errors on the PCB but neither should break the pedal.

1. D5 and D6 look like they are the same orientation so will not form a clipping pair.
2. C5 (C2 in the lovepimple schematic above) is 100n on tayda guide, but all schematics show 220n.

Using a sound probe to OUTPUT I get a weak signal from INPUT to Q1 middle pin (base?) but nothing after.
Using a sound probe to INPUT I get weak signal from OUTPUT back to Q1 top pin (Collector?) but nothing before.

This makes me think it's Q1 but I tried 3 different 2N5088s in both orientations and still no signal (I socketed Q1).

Q1
C: 9.6v
B: 0.2mv
E: approx 0v

What else can I do to find the fault? I would really appreciate any help people can offer!

PS I have a multimeter and basic sound probe.

Additional info:
http://www.taydakits.com/instructions/english-man/pages/designators-and-components--5
I used a big metal film cap instead of poly box for C1.
powered from EHX 9.6v power supply
Circuit is ground negative

[Kipper4]

Check the R6,R2 net. The voltage divider should give around 1V7 at the base of the transistor, and just over 1v at the emitter pin.
edit
Resistors refered to from schematic

[Lukie]

Tested voltage of all components with 9v power supply connected, no input/output jacks connected. I can get photos tonight.

Parts relate to the codes here: *(Added codes in brackets to match Lovepimple schematic)



+9v: 9.01
ground: 0
in: 0
out: 0

Voltage at each end of resistors.
R1 (R3): 0, 0
R3 (R6): 0, 0.6
R4 (R1): 8.68, 8.68
R6 (R7): 0, 0
R7 (R4): 0, 0
R8 (R11): 8.68, 8.86
R9 (R2): 0.19, 8.86

C1 (C1): 0, 0.18
C2 (C3): +side = 0, -side = 0
C3 (C2): 8.68, 0
C4 (C4): + side = 8.69, -side = 0
C5 (C5): 8.69, 0

Q1:
C= 8.68
B= 0
E= 0 - Does not change when gain knob is adjusted.

D3 (D3): A= 0, K=0
D4 (D4): A=0, K=0
D5 (D1): A=1.12, K=0
D6 (D2): A=1.12, K=0 - Currently removed from circuit, will switch polarity and replace.
D7 (D5): A=9.03, K=8.7

[Lukie]

Check the R6,R2 net. The voltage divider should give around 1V7 at the base of the transistor, and just over 1v at the emitter pin.

Thanks, I don't get those voltages, ill try replacing those resistors.

[duck_arse]

as kipper says, it looks like your transistor is not drawing any current (R1 should have a voltage dropped across it when the transistor is biased right), because it is turned very off by the base voltage. which is possibly shorted to ground, or a very wrong value resistor at R6.

power off, get yer meter on ohms range, measure the resistances from the base to ground and base to R1//R2 junction, supply. (numbers from the pimple dia.)

[LightSoundGeometry]

looks like an electra distortion lol

[Lukie]

. . . or a very wrong value resistor at R6.

Like a 470 instead of 470k?

Well that was it, its working now thanks for your help!

Just out of interest do you know what effect would changing C2 from 100n to 220n have? Would it just be softer clipping?

[Kipper4]

Changing C2 from 100nf to 220nf allows more of the lower freqauncies to pass to the output.
Around 1 octave lower than the 100nf would allow. If my hotch potch  calcs are right.

[Resynthesis]

looks like an electra distortion lol

You mean Lovepedal gadgets are Electra-based!? 

[Lukie]

Socketed C2 and squished it back into the 1590a, gotta say the original spec 220n sounds better to me. 1st 1590a build completed! Looking at the electra this is basically the same design with some extra bits soldered around the edges