What am I missing about these 3PDT switches?!?!?

Started by castelow13, April 05, 2016, 09:41:14 AM

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castelow13

Hello all, first time poster here.  Followed a lot of other instructions I found on here.  Trying to make a breakout footswitch box for my zoom G3X a la the ashbass mods.  My issue I'm running into is I bought 5 3PDT switches (wanted a few extra) and on latching 2PDT, the 2PDT is a breeze...the 3P's I cannot get to read correctly on my multi-meter.  I measure from the common(middle) lug to either the top or bottom and have continuity, then keeping the common in place I move my other lead to the opposite lug of the initial test.  I have nothing, no matter if the switch is pressed or not...in fact with the switch pressed I still have continuity on the initial lug to common. (Top lug and middle lug continuity whether the button is pressed or not, cannot find continuity anywhere else when the button is pressed except for the top still)  I hope this makes sense.  I like to think I'm somewhat educated when it comes to electronics but 2PDT and 3PDT switches have gotten me kinda boggled eventhough I know people say they are the same principle as 1PDT. What am I missing?!?!
Gary!!

Kevin Mitchell

#1
Hope they're good!

Here's a breif explanation;

Look at the bottom with the lugs flat

3 Pole Double Throw:
1 2 3
_ _ _  A
_ _ _  B
_ _ _  C


The middle row "B" is the main lug and ones above and beneath it are it's throws (A and C). It should have continuity with either one or the other depending on the position of the switch. Each column "1, 2  and 3" are poles. So it's like having three spdt "single pole double throw" in one switch.


Just in case you're not up to speed with basic relays...
Post a picture of your switches if you think it's different from the typical ones.
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Bonemud



So what you're saying is if you have common on 2 you can get continuity on 1 but you never get it on 3 no matter how many times you push the button? If that is the case then the switches would be non-functioning, but the way you worded the explanation is kinda confusing. " I measure from the common(middle) lug to either the top or bottom and have continuity". Which one do you mean, either top or bottom? They will never both have continuity to common at the same time.

You want to make sure that the lugs are horizontal not vertical as you look at the back of the switch like in the image.

Gargaman

Kevin's explanation may help.
Let me just correct that The middle row "B" is the main lug and ones above and beneath it are it's throws (A and B)
I guess he wanted to say ...are it's throws (A and C)
"My profile pic was stolen!"

Kevin Mitchell

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castelow13

 :icon_redface: :icon_redface: :icon_redface:
UGHHHH!!!!! I totally understand everything you all are saying which is why this was confusing me so much!!!  Next time I will be sure to push the button in COMPLETELY before posting next time.  All switches check out fine I did not realize how tight they were to completely press/engage.  Thanks for all the rapid responses and useful diagrams!!
Gary!!

Gargaman

#6
Good to know!
DPDT was like black box to me in the very beggining.
Keep Bonemud's diagram with untill it fixes in your brain.. :o

- I did not realize how tight they were to completely press/engage. -
There are some really soft switches that almost make no noise too.
regards
"My profile pic was stolen!"

bluebunny

Quote from: castelow13 on April 05, 2016, 10:43:24 AM
I did not realize how tight they were to completely press/engage.

That's why they're called "stomp" switches and not "kiss" switches.  Brute force required.   :D
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...