subcaster 6111

[LightSoundGeometry]

sounds like a super nice clean boost, I like it a lot!! 


as far as the audio probe? can I use a 4.7 nF instead of a 10? I have a larger 600 volt silver mica i need to use someplace

wooot tube boost !

time to move her to a 30 x 30 pad per hole perfboard home

[idiot savant]

just hooking it up this way caused the regulator to smoke and look like it caught on fire :



IS, I am not going to order a 10 watt resistor ..I am going to give in that I have no idea what I am doing..the smoke from the breadboard scared me a little but all I can say is the tube didnt glow and my bench supply probably is not working right either.

The reason you saw some fireworks is right there in the pic. You missed the 220R resistor connection to that little orange jumper to the left.

Anyways, glad you've finally got something working! Rock on!

[LightSoundGeometry]

oh shoot, haha I see it now. I might have to give the 6111 another go ..i want to see the glow of a tube

this boost sounds fantastic. I am enjoying the challenge of moving it to perf tonight, its like a chess game since I am new to perf lol ..got me brain a working and sweating lol..its really challenging me and I like it!

its on perf and sounds great ..lost some volts someplace but it still sounds great ..its at 6.9 and 3.3 volts ..my perf layout needs some pre thought but that will come next time with a tone.gain stage next

[bluebunny]

as far as the audio probe? can I use a 4.7 nF instead of a 10? I have a larger 600 volt silver mica i need to use someplace

You can use anything you have to hand in that ballpark: 47uF, 100nF, 1uF, ...

[duck_arse]

well , I think I should give the pentode another go, might be easier to learn on with less parts

I may be understanding this PS better, looks like its drawing  .5 amps? the regulator still works despite smoking like a bonfire earlier. There is 1.229 vdv on the F+ G3 which from what i can tell, with what I have learned so far, is the filament and one of the 3 grid plates inside. . pin five , labeled F- coming off the symbol ^ and junctioned with pin 3, labeled F+, is grounded to my common buss rail on BB.

look on the ammeter, all the way to the right - ".5" on the lower (lo current), "1" on the upper scale (hi current). your meter shows half of .1, read from the lo scale because of the "current" switch position. what is the current draw of your valve's filament, as listed in the datasheet, 50mA? this is what 50mA looks like.

if you have got the circuit wired right, and the filament is drawing its 50mA, and there is no other odd faults in your wirings, turning the "current" knob (which sets the maximum current the supply will allow you to have, so it won't destroy itself as well as yr circuit) further clockwise will result in no movement of the needle.

also, the regulator may still run hot enough to melt/deform your bb. ask me how I know this.

[LightSoundGeometry]

well , I think I should give the pentode another go, might be easier to learn on with less parts

I may be understanding this PS better, looks like its drawing  .5 amps? the regulator still works despite smoking like a bonfire earlier. There is 1.229 vdv on the F+ G3 which from what i can tell, with what I have learned so far, is the filament and one of the 3 grid plates inside. . pin five , labeled F- coming off the symbol ^ and junctioned with pin 3, labeled F+, is grounded to my common buss rail on BB.

look on the ammeter, all the way to the right - ".5" on the lower (lo current), "1" on the upper scale (hi current). your meter shows half of .1, read from the lo scale because of the "current" switch position. what is the current draw of your valve's filament, as listed in the datasheet, 50mA? this is what 50mA looks like.

if you have got the circuit wired right, and the filament is drawing its 50mA, and there is no other odd faults in your wirings, turning the "current" knob (which sets the maximum current the supply will allow you to have, so it won't destroy itself as well as yr circuit) further clockwise will result in no movement of the needle.

also, the regulator may still run hot enough to melt/deform your bb. ask me how I know this.

Stephen , how do you know this ?

I have 4 more tubes left so by the 5th one I will have a decent layout designed ! this first one was really a proto - forgot the pulldown,pro diode and filter ..and i want to add a tone stack possibly

[thermionix]

Grounding bus...nice.

[duck_arse]

does the reg get hot/warm in that red box? see, now, if you had an insulating washer and an insulating bush, you could mount the LM317 onto the aluminium box itself, insulated like, and use it as a whacking big heatsink.

[LightSoundGeometry]

it doesnt get hot at all..i dont see a need for a heat sink. maybe in another circuit but not this one. sounds good with 9vdc too. not sure why tayda only sells the heat sinks with no fasteners or washers etc for teh parts... I would add this circuit to byc's list of clean effects he wants to build !

I need to go in and clean her up a bit, the hi-def camera picks up things I missed and my eyes cant see lol like the switch need snipped up and the output jack needs a new wire the pliers molded it up while she was hot  . my layout can be better thought out ..on stripboard it would look perfect but perf is another animal for me right now

[thermionix]

insulating bush

[LightSoundGeometry]

help! please someone spot the error ..i cant seem to find it ..i been at this all night so sorry for sloppy mess its turned into but its all I have for pics now

current meter shows .1 or .05 amps I believe on bench supply

5672

1-62 volts
2- 61 volts
-
-
0

6111

1 - 63v
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
8 - 62 volts




fackin hell ..I see one error pin 3 to ground supposed to go to +12 all it did was short out my supply current in red , no soudn when put to plus 12 and drops the BS voltage to near zero or zero

pins now measure around 56 - 60 volts after this

[LightSoundGeometry]

anyone interested in buying two transformers and some 6111 tubes? usa only plz and PM me

[grg32437]

I'm gonna a different route here. I'm going to use a 6.3 volt transformer for the 6111 heater , then use a voltage doubler or triple circuit for the B+.

[Guurf2]

Hi,

Since wer'e discussing 6111's here i thought it's an opportunity to throw in a question about these,
do you know any 6111 equivalents? what are the best equivalents for these?
Thanks!

Guy F.

[frequencycentral]

Hi,

Since wer'e discussing 6111's here i thought it's an opportunity to throw in a question about these,
do you know any 6111 equivalents? what are the best equivalents for these?
Thanks!

Guy F.

7327

[Guurf2]

Hi,

Since wer'e discussing 6111's here i thought it's an opportunity to throw in a question about these,
do you know any 6111 equivalents? what are the best equivalents for these?
Thanks!

Guy F.

7327

thanks!

[Guurf2]

Would Russian 6N16B also work?
6N17B, 6N21B ?

Thanks.

[frequencycentral]

6N16B almost certainly, with suitable pinout changes, and attention to the heater requirement - I really can't recall it's heater requirement.

6N17B, possibly not. it's closer to a 6112 than a 6111, so would presumably have similar issues in this circuit to if 12AX7 were to be used in a Valvecaster.

I don't know the 6N21B sorry!

[Guurf2]

6N16B almost certainly, with suitable pinout changes, and attention to the heater requirement - I really can't recall it's heater requirement.

6N17B, possibly not. it's closer to a 6112 than a 6111, so would presumably have similar issues in this circuit to if 12AX7 were to be used in a Valvecaster.

I don't know the 6N21B sorry!

Thanks a lot!

[wordtobigbird]

Does someone have the 6111 pinout to 6N1XB pinout conversion to hand?

Never mind, found it. Incase anyone else is lazy like I was, I *think* its this:

6111  6N
1         1
2         7
3         4
4         6
5         2
6         8
7         3
8         5