katzenkönig

[LightSoundGeometry]

the Katzenkonig was let go for us to use, thank you catalinbread very awesome you guys, but i cant get it together on perf  or in the creator on strip..I need help ! asking if someone has a layout to share? I didnt think it would be much harder than a normal TB lol ..wrong! Im still a noob at creating layouts though ..haha

[dbp512]

Heres a perfboard layout: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/09/catalinbread-katzenkonig.html

[LightSoundGeometry]

Heres a perfboard layout: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/09/catalinbread-katzenkonig.html

that doesnt make any sense to me..nothing is color coded or labeled , I cant tell what wires go where and looks like the input is not connected from what I can see in the lower left corner ? right corner looks unconnected as well ..I dont trust that googled search layout for some reason just by looking at it ..

I will get it myself. i almost have it. its easier for me to just solder it as i go and screw the diy creator ..

I have a strained neck and arm, cant go on but I have half already laid out on strip

[dbp512]

The input has the 1M to ground and also goes into lug 3 of the Input pot, which works as a variable resistor the the 68n cap above. Same thing on the right: the output connects to lug 2 of the volume pot, which in this case is a voltage divider. You can see the 3 holes each pot goes to, and the labels along with the numbers 1 and 3 to show orientation. Its designed to mount the pots directly to the circuit board.

If you want to make your own schematic go right ahead, I've just never been very good at it so I've relied on layouts I've been able to find. I haven't used any of their layouts because I prefer stripboard to perf, but I've seen them as often as tagboard, of which I've built multiple designs without problem, so long as they're verified (I've never tried otherwise, but I'd assume they're good too, those people do great work).

[LightSoundGeometry]

The input has the 1M to ground and also goes into lug 3 of the Input pot, which works as a variable resistor the the 68n cap above. Same thing on the right: the output connects to lug 2 of the volume pot, which in this case is a voltage divider. If you want to make your own schematic go right ahead, I've just never been very good at it so I've relied on layouts I've been able to find.

I think I see it now. if this strip layout I have working doesnt turn out, I will give the perf another go.

the input pot doesnt make a whole lot of sense unless you are switching between a 1959 with original pups to a 2016 les paul in a hurried rush ..lol I probably will leave it off as I only have one guitar , a MIM strat - dont have a 150nF so I am using a 100 nF like a MKII would use ..we shall see ! she will be remixed/tweaked fo sho

that right side output still looks weird to me, not conneted, i cant see it ..I can see the schematic 1 to ground, 2 output and 3 in series with a 1uf cap to the base of the q4 and junctioned with a 3k3 to ground, i cant tell where his marks or wire connections are going  but not on his perf layout ..maybe I need sleep and look again manana but something looks out of place to me

lol NM ..i see it now ..too much party on 420 lool

[Phoenix]

the input pot doesnt make a whole lot of sense unless you are switching between a 1959 with original pups to a 2016 les paul in a hurried rush ..lol I probably will leave it off as I only have one guitar , a MIM strat - dont have a 150nF so I am using a 100 nF like a MKII would use ..we shall see ! she will be remixed/tweaked fo sho

The input pot changes the source impedance the circuit sees, so alters the amplitude of the signal entering the first stage, but more importantly, will also alter the tone - allowing proportionately more bass through and dumping more treble as the source impedance rises. This is a low input-impedance effect, so this interaction with source impedance for shaping the tone is very important. A passive guitar has a DC output resistance of anywhere between a half-dozen-ish kOhms to 130-ish kOhms, depending on the pickup type, control arrangement and volume control settings. A typical effects pedal or active pickup system will have an output impedance from around 100 Ohms to a few kOhms (can be higher, but that's rare). Because of these grossly different output impedances, feeding a low input impedance pedal such as this from a low impedance source will dramatically alter the tone - and generally for the worse (or at least make it sound different from how it was designed to). This input pot allows you to mimic the DC resistance of a passive pickup system to help retain some of the intended tone. Passive guitars are of course a more complex impedance source than a simple resistance (they have large inductive and capacitive elements that form a resonant filter when lightly loaded, but is damped by low input impedance effects), but it'll get you in the ballpark.
Low input impedance effects also generally respond well to changes in the setting of passive guitar volume controls - cleaning up and changing the tone as things are rolled down - techniques involving volume swells can take advantage of this. The addition of this input pot adds another dimension to this also, allowing you to set a "minimum" source impedance to get a different range of effect from your guitars onboard volume control.

So the point of all that is: it's not a simple volume control, it has a wholly different purpose, so I wouldn't recommend you leave it out. It could be equally useful with your "1959 with original pups" or "2016 les paul".

[LightSoundGeometry]

right on ! I have it finished and tested without the input pot, which I can easily add on since its right at the input of teh stage

sounds fantastic, its a wonderful sounding pedal . I instantly love it and am certainly a huge fan of catalinbread.

I found at 18 volts she splats out a little and sounds best run at 12 volts but with the 250K pot on the input this may change. i havent added the power filter yet, i always do that off board on the input dc jack , same with my protection diode. i think this time I will stick the power filter stage in the upper left hand corner to fill it in and leave the vero uncut and a full piece, going to stick her in a 1590bb anyways as that is the only enclosure I have here at home

* using a 100nF between Q1 and Q2 as i didnt have a 150 and went back to a stock style tonebender value I was familiar with
* mad for not socketing the diodes..grrr might have to pull out the solder sucker
* q1-q4 right now are 2n3094's all around the 400 HFE , I been reading reports that gains in the low 200's sound good to but I havent tested yet, adding the 250 input pot on and power filter first ..and probably socketing diodes as well

strip board, solders as I went , so no layout but the other perf one is verified according to the comments and forum

[LightSoundGeometry]

any advice for perf? its a &^%$ (*&%% O(*&^%$$$%^  anything will help !

my tip micro pencil tip one doesnt seem to be working at the very end, so now I am resorting to a flathead type one ..





looks like the hidef camera caught a bridge I cant see with naked eye, and en open leg..the weller wp30 and a number 6 seems to be working , now its up to me lol

[GibsonGM]

Maybe, but there's still nothing wrong with your work there, LSG!  That's how I've always done them - ALL.  My work is usually messier  

Beats being limited by Vero offerings, or waiting to make/buy a PCB. 

Give it some time, you'll be an old pro at perf!

Sound clips? I'm thinking about building this one, I need something "Muff-like" that isn't a Muff.

[LightSoundGeometry]

Maybe, but there's still nothing wrong with your work there, LSG!  That's how I've always done them - ALL.  My work is usually messier  

Beats being limited by Vero offerings, or waiting to make/buy a PCB. 

Give it some time, you'll be an old pro at perf!

Sound clips? I'm thinking about building this one, I need something "Muff-like" that isn't a Muff.

no sound clips yet from the one on strip but its an awesome sounding fuzz distortion..fuzzortion, build it for sure! thanks for compliments, some very precise bends here in the middle ..patience young grasshopper ..will take a few days most likely lol !!
* once you get the first tak down the bends are easier to manipulate. the challenge is very rewarding !

* $35 Wiha sidecutters earning their salt
* I need better micro pliers or precision needle nose

my concentration Zen Music for this project:

* far as I can make it tonight. Hi-Def Camera will see any errors so far and community

[Ben Lyman]

Looks great to me, as long as all the connections are made I wouldn't worry about it.
My technique may be unorthodox, perhaps even frowned upon, I dunno.
I leave all my components legs on and bend them around to make the connections, carefully bending with needle nose pliers as accurately as I can, snipping with the tip of my wire cutters.
then I just lay solder over everything following my pre made trails and referring to my diy creator print out as a "proof-read."
Later removal of components you ask? yeah, I guess it's harder but I have done it.
First heat and solder-sucker around the part to be removed, exposing the wire trace, snip with wire cutter, heat again and pull from the other side. Not that I like doing it but it's not all that bad, I've gotten a lot of practice removing Ge trannys from old boards anyway.

[GibsonGM]

Yeah, I do about the same, Ben.  It's not really unorthodox...it's practical, but there are pros and cons to all the methods, of course!

Vero is easy, fast, gets you up and running. Perf is cheap, no wait for a 'release' of a design, teaches you to read schematics fast and how to lay out components (trial and error, tho).  PCB - fast, easy, quality product, but you don't learn as much, I feel.

Beating myself over perf (like LSG is doing) taught me tons that I am very glad that I now know!

[Ben Lyman]

cheers to that Mike!!! 

[GibsonGM]

cheers to that Mike!!! 

Back at ya! 

[stringsthings]

Heres a perfboard layout: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/09/catalinbread-katzenkonig.html

I etched a board with this layout and I can confirm that it works.  ( The layout was previously tested good )  Very nice sounding distortion/fuzz. 
Right now, I've just got 2N3904's in the four sockets.  Not sure about hfe.  When I pick up a hfe tester, I may try some different transistors.

[LightSoundGeometry]

Heres a perfboard layout: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/09/catalinbread-katzenkonig.html

I etched a board with this layout and I can confirm that it works.  ( The layout was previously tested good )  Very nice sounding distortion/fuzz. 
Right now, I've just got 2N3904's in the four sockets.  Not sure about hfe.  When I pick up a hfe tester, I may try some different transistors.

any SI from 300 - 450 will work ..I am using 2n3904s myself and sounds fantastic - they are all around 400 Hfe

[Kennt82]

I used this layout a couple weeks ago.  I also used BC550B's. This Tone Bender MK2 with pre-gain control, tone control and clipping diodes sounds great!

Heres a perfboard layout: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/09/catalinbread-katzenkonig.html

[edy_wheazel]

 I build this a while ago, nice pedal.







Is there a way I can attach a pdf with the pcb?

[abakuzam]

I build this a while ago, nice pedal.







Is there a way I can attach a pdf with the pcb?

You can upload it on dropbox or smiliar web site, and share the link in here

[edy_wheazel]

 Ok, hope this works. Here's the schematic, pcb and layout:

http://docdro.id/joL2PWr