DIY dual normally-open momentary footswitch for looper - Need HELP!!

[Some_math_guy]

Hi everybody! I've been playing guitar since I was a teenager but only got really interested in DIY mods and effects pedals after buying my first all-tube amp last year. Since then I've successfully modded about 10 pedals, and built a '78 Big Muff Pi op-amp clone from a kit which was very satisfying

I use a Boss RC-3 Loop Station for capturing new song ideas and licks, and although it's an awesome pedal, you really do need a dual momentary footswitch to use it effectively to switch phrases, stop with a single stomp, etc.

I was going to shell out for a Boss FS6 or FS7, but the fs6 is way too large (5"x9"), while the fs7 has the buttons mounted vertically which is awkward to use without looking down.

So, I thought I could repurpose some old pedal parts to build my own switch. I took an amp switching enclosure, pulled out the 2 switches and replaced with 2 normally-open momentary switches, and shortened the TRS cord (aet up for channel and reverb switching on my amp). I wired it up, which I thought would be simple but no matter how I wired it, I could never get the 2nd button to work without holding down the other one simultaneously!You can see my wiring diagram and some pics below.

I have spent literally days trying to get it going and I hoped maybe somebody could help me before I toss the lot into the junk drawer and shell out the 80$ for a non-ideal Boss FS6 or FS7. Do I have the wrong type of switch? Missing a ground? I confirmed the cord continuity and identified which color wires are attached to the Tip, Ring and Sleeve using a makeshift LED tester as i wrote down in the pics. ALSO, before you say 'those are latching switches pal!, note that the switches you see in the pic look exactly like latching switches that are typically used in amp footswitches and pedals...but they are NOT! They are 2 new momentary switches I installed in the pedal chassis (see the packaging and closeup pic)!

Thank you so much for any help, my wife is still chuckling at me hunched over wiring and buttons on the floor of her home office with furrowed brow and a big frown on my face lol! Help me prove to her that this little hobby isn't a total waste of time and money!!!

[Some_math_guy]

Just so you guys don't think I'm a total bonehead, the mods I've done successfully so far are:

- Dunlop Crybaby true bypass, LED indicator, Jerry Cantrell sweep pot, and bass cap switch mods
- Boss TR-2 Tremolo - Monte Allums mod kit with additional volume pot
- Add LEDs to Amp footswitch
- Add LEDs to Radial EFX true bypass loop box
- Big Muff V4 clone from kit (~75 components)
- Convert TS9 to TS808 with socketed IC and 4 different chips (JRC4558, RC4558P, RC4559, and stock chip)
- Convert all of my vintage Boss ASA pedals (12V) to PSA (9VDC) to run off standard power supply
- MXR Phase 90 switchable R28 and Tremolo mods
- Boss GE-7 sniper mods

That's why it's been so frustrating, I just can't figure out why my simple dual momentary footswitch won't work properly!

[Quackzed]

try connecting the bare wires without the switches. white to black, does it do what you want? then red to black, does it do what you want? it may be that the 'common' wire that the other 2 wires connect to in order to work isn't actually ground 3... but the ring or tip...

it would help if you explained what you want each switch to do. i'm not familiar with the loop station, but if you can explain what each switch normally does etc... then we'll be better able to help.

don't worry, if it CAN be done, someone here will be able to explain how to do it. wiring logic and switching scheme problems are like fun puzzles to some of these sick s.o.b.'s 

myself included... 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGoFgshM7Rc

after watching this vid, it seems like your wiring should work fine...
check continuity on your cable again, maybee something in the cable is shorting to another wire without the switch being pressed. if you do your led test, try all the leads to make sure another lead isn't also connected when it shouldn't be...
check where the cable comes into the box to be sure nothing is shorted...

[duck_arse]

hey pal err bonehead umm, Some_math_guy, did you put those switches on your meter, just to prove to yourself that they were in the right packet? it has happened before, and welcome to the forum.

[slacker]

Don't quote me on this but I think you need normally closed switches. The RC3 manual shows the polarity switches for the boss foot switches in what are apparently the normally closed positions, I haven't got one to check that is correct though

[Some_math_guy]

LOL, I was just playing with the wires and noting how the RC-3 responded, and realized, IT NEEDS NORMALLY CLOSED SWITCHES! Then I came on here to post my findings...but you beat me to it!

Thank you for your help everyone!

[thermionix]

Don't quote me on this

[deadastronaut]

i had the same issue with my nux loopcore..

you really have to have the ''optional'' fs to get the most out of loopers..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44XH9ni_LTc

.........

look in the description of this vid below , there is a diagram of how i did mine...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA9rgagb3dg

if i recall, one had to be NC and the other NO for the BOSS RC3.. (dont quote me on that)

anyway.. here is a vid of  guy that made an FS6 clone...which is ideal for ya!..
stop frowning and build it..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zep3m7Cviqg

[fretzburner]

If RC3 is same with RC2 regarding external footswitch then one switch is normally open while the other one is normally closed as deadastronaut said.I personally made the switch for my RC2 before.

[Some_math_guy]

The RC-3 actually requires two normally-closed switches. I have now built my footswitch and it worked perfectly with two normally-closed switches. Thank you everybody!