Millenium bypass vero daughterboard.

[digi2t]

Maybe it's been done before, I don't know. Cooked this up tonight. The build is the Knucklehead version of the Frantone Peachfuzz, except the PCB has no option for LED. I wanted something elegant, and pop free, so I whipped this up...









In a nut shell, it's this layout;



but 7 holes wide, to make up for the reach over the switch, and to split the power to the main board from here. Before you tell me that the FET is installed backwards, it's a 2N7000. 

As for the switch, I cut the center (common) lug off the row holding the vero (VERY IMPORTANT that you remove this lug), and trimmed the top and bottom pins to the point that they would fit in the holes. I had to spread them apart, ever so slightly, but there's enough pin that shows to solder.



There you go. Cheap and dirty, but it works.

[chuckd666]

I was trying to work out what was happening with the lugs that the vero is mounted on, but you're just using it to mount it right?

[digi2t]

Correct Sir!

The center lug does line up with a hole, but using it would short the circuit or power supply, so that's why I stressed that it should be removed. I just snipped it off with my flush cutters. The upper and lower lugs serve purely as attachment points for the daughterboard. Since the center lug is now gone, there's nothing to short out.

[chuckd666]

Ingenious. Why do you like millennium bypass more than regular true bypass? I notice you implement it in most of your layouts!

[digi2t]

Most? I wouldn't say so. I tend to stay with true bypass for most stuff. It just seems that in the last few projects that I've done, Millenium Bypass keeps showing up, and I try to stay true to the original. My last project, Cozybuilder's Moonstone, Russ penciled in the MB, so I just went along with it. Fact is, when I was thinking about adding the LED, the pack of 2N7000's was still sitting on the bench, so I think that's when my brain drifted to MB for this. I think it was more subliminal than anything else.

[Jay]

Just curious, but why add a Millenium Bypass - an LED control system for DPDT switches - to a 3PDT switch that can control the LED directly? 

[digi2t]

Just curious, but why add a Millenium Bypass - an LED control system for DPDT switches - to a 3PDT switch that can control the LED directly?

Apart from the fact that it's nice if you only have a DPDT switch, it's a sure fire way to get pop-free switching as well. Like I said before, I wasn't sure if a pull down resistor would do the job if I simply used the direct method.

Besides... gave me an excuse to try it. Right?