Drilling Into Aluminium

[djp8djp]

One more technique for particularly thin or fragile stock is to not only back it, but sandwich it between two other (more sturdy) sheets. Of course, unless you're using plexi for the top sheet, you won't see what's going on. But you can transfer your pattern to the top layer, drill all yer required holes, and then trim the fully-holed stock to its final shape afterwards.

[blackieNYC]

I've heard one vote for a drill press and one vote for a hand drill. Never thought of using a hand drill, since I have access to a press. But I am intrigued -
-hand drill has variable speed without changing the belts
-I do have a drill with adjustable max torque so I can hopefully not hurt m'self.
     Hand drill or press?

[stallik]

By hand drill, I think he meant hand operated

[PRR]

> WD40 and kerosene

Just FYI: WD40 _IS_ kerosene.

"Kerosene" covers a wide range of distillate. Thin, thicker, stinky, less-stinky. WD40 is selected parts of kerosene with the right viscosity and not much smell.

For de-damping spark wires, you want WD-40.

For anything else, you can get 2 gallons of kerosene for the price of WD40 spray.

The spray is more convenient than tipping out of a gallon jug.

[Brisance]

I use one of these for most holes into enclosures:


leaves a really clean hole and the next step can be used as a deburr tool too very conveniently.

[anotherjim]

This is the type of hand drill I'm used to...

http://www.rapidonline.com/draper-8mm-3-8-chuck-double-pinion-hand-drill-311679
They don't all come with a chuck big enough for a step drill. You can get spare chucks (or get one off an old power drill) - most fit a 3/8" UNF threaded drive shank.

Step drill "next size up" does clear the burr well in die-cast, but on plate ali, I find it just spreads out the burr I already have. I usually carefully scrape/cut the burr off with a Stanley knife.

Whatever happened to chassis punches? I once worked at a place that had a range of these - round, square, rectangular & specials for some connectors like D type.
http://www.frost.co.uk/set-of-6-hole-punches.html
Snag is the price, so unless you do a lot of holes in the day, stick with the step drill.
This for an IEC AC connector...
http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/973-0120/m10-rect-hole-cutter-27-2x22-15mm/dp/1894929?Ntt=27.2x22.15mm
Hmmm, for that price, I'll stick to drilling lots of small holes and filing it out!

[blackieNYC]

Whoa!  That hand drill. "Don't let the next blackout stop you.." I like it.

Greenlee hole punches - our work would certainly be at the very small end of their line, if at all. They are very expensive and a much larger surface area than the hole is needed. No corners, no rear mount. Pretty nice for XLR jacks. And d-sub connectors too.

Leave the burr there. Think of it as a functional lockwasher 

[Ben Lyman]

Nice hand drill Jim! It just reminded me (sorry, off topic here) that when I drilled some 1/16" holes in the side of a few mandolin necks to install the pickguards, I simply held the drill bit and turned it with my fingers  I guess you can't really do that with metal though, huh

[duck_arse]

the "hand drill" is called an egg-beater for a reason. they are also quite difficult to use manage without some sorta clampings.

[stallik]

Place elbow on enclosure, hold drill with hand of same arm. Other hand free to turn.
Very controllable, effective and quiet.
Technique best employed by persons built like racing snakes or anorexic whippets. Large forearms obscure the work

[duck_arse]

stallik - I thort I was the only one!

[anotherjim]

I have at times resorted to all manner of ways to make holes - although never with a firearm - oh wait, I have used Hilti guns to put threaded studs in concrete.

Start hole with vero cutter - finish to size ever larger flat blade screwdrivers ... & other such horrors. Then there's the fix drill in vice and rotate the workpiece gambit. I've actually completely drilled a stomp case with only the vero cutter and a taper reamer.

Only the other day I used a jewellers spiral drive (ARCHIMEDES) hand drill to put a hole between 2 holes on a piece of perfboard - I do that for PCB mount TRS jacks. Drill bit goes all over the place or breaks if I use a mini-drill.

[anotherjim]

Anorexic Gibbon myself.

[DDD]

I have the best result with thin metal sheet between two pieces of a hard wood (sandwich), drill press at higher RPM and step bit.
This "package" gives clean holes even in 0.3 mm steel sheet.
*** Please note that drilling a hard wood makes the bit much more hot than drilling a metal sheet.

[exztinct01]

what are the important specs i have to consider before buying a drill? First, my budget won't allow for a drill press, not even for a dremel. I would use the drill mostly in building aluminum chassis for amps and pedals, also for drilling holes in heatsinks for my diy amps, and we know those heatsinks measure about 10mm thick. Holes to be drilled there would be mostly for securing transistors and ICs. I know that drill press has an edge in precision and ease of use but I guess I can manage with a power drill.
So, I've read articles like difference between regular drill, impact drill, hammer drill. Which is ideal for my purpose? Also I've read specs like maximum diameter for metal drilling, no-load RPM, input wattage, output wattage, some have switches from impact to regular drill, some have hammer functions which increases no load rpm? which is important or lets say what specific values for those specs are suited for my purpose?

[exztinct01]

I have a short list, but if they are overkill or lacking, please suggest alternatives

Bosch GBM 350
Bosch GBM 10 RE
Bosch GSB 550
Bosch GSB 500

Those fit my budget 
I considered Makita but they're expensive for me so...

[chuckd666]

Dude I bought a drill from Aldi for $100 and it was one of the best purchases I've ever made.

[exztinct01]

$100 is a big amount here in the Philippines
it's almost a quarter of a public school teacher salary here 

[anotherjim]

Any power drill with a chuck that will take your biggest drill. Not SDS or anything fancy - you want a conventional 3/8" screw on chuck. Vari-speed is a bonus worth having. My old Bosch has a control in the trigger for speed and varies up to that according to the squeeze on the trigger. That drill is over 20 years old & still working well. You don't need a hammer function - that's for drilling masonry.
Don't expect to be doing pcb component holes with this drill!
Securing the work piece is just as important. What's really useful - even if you have a solid workbench and vice etc, is a folding work table.... example...

Those moveable top plates (those are either plywood or mdf) are perfect for clamping sheet to - there are usually some holes in the plates for your drill to pass into without damaging the top, or just aim for the gap between the plate jaws. They can grip diecast boxes between those jaws, or you can use the supplied plastic grips that fit in the holes in the plates. Those jaws can help you fold up amp chassis walls...
You will also need a set of G clamps. Don't forget to put some packing between the clamp and workpiece to stop it getting marked.
...and drill and bench are always going to be useful for jobs around the home.

[stallik]

Exzinct. If you want to make holes in alluminium enclosures cheaply, it can be done without a power drill. I used the following tools not because of cost but because of noise as I was working late at night when the family were asleep.



Punch followed by a tiny drill to make a very small hole (I used the same drill as for a  pcb) then a small drill bit held in a screwdriver handle to enlarge the hole and finally a tapered reamer to enlarge to the final size
Takes a couple of mins to do but is silent and very accurate. The above tools are far cheaper than a power drill