1590a space saving

[Mgt280y]

I have some spare 1590a laying around and want to try some tight fit projects, I'm trying a tone mender atm so 4 pots, board, toggle, jacks, and DC I cAn find a way to to all but the 1/4 jack sockets.
Has anyone tried hardwiring the in/out giving it in/out tails therefore removing the need for in out sockets just trying to figure out wiring only thing I can think is in and out holes with grommet to suit hard wire to board and mono jack on each end bit I can't sort is a way of gripping the cable on the inside of the box to to stop the cable bring pulled out of the box, guess idea some thing like the cable grip on uk 230v plugs? But small

[Mark Hammer]

I simply hate working with 1590A boxes, even though plenty of folks use 'em with a big smile.

That said, a few space-saving tips:

1) There are two kinds of DC jacks - innies and outies.  Innies are nicely flush against the outside of the box but the threaded part is on the inside and hogs space.  The outies have minimal real estate inside the chassis  but stick out the threaded part.  I mount outies on the rear skirt..  If you get the height of the hole center just right, it will provide more room for pots.

2) The little black plastic shaft pots that one often sees as auxiliary/secondary adjustments on pedals like the Supa Puss below can be mounted on their own board.  a few plastic spacers between the pots will alow you to epoxy the assembly to the inside of the top chassis-face.  The pots are low-profile enough that you can actually install a second board behind it with the remainder of the components.  I won't say it doesn't require thoughtful planning, but it can be done.


3) Smallbear carries the smaller footprint 3PDT stompswitches: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/low-profile-3pdt-switch/  These can help conserve space and provide some flexibility in jack installation.  That smaller footprint can allow you to bend some jack solder tabs over to the space between the switch and chassis wall.

[PRR]

Grommet. Loop. Put a plastic wire-tie on the loop to hold it.

Not zero-size. Won't survive a good yank. Compact, cheap.

This is better than just tying a knot, because a knot will tighten until the cable pinches and shorts itself. In my experience a TyRap-ed loop is harder to abuse.

For advanced ideas: get a lot of small hardwired dinguses from yard sales, GoodWill, your bottom kitchen drawer. Bust them open. Some clamp the cord with screws. Some zig-zag through an S-cut groove. Many don't make sense unless you are making a mold to make a million copies, but you may find an idea, or some bits that can be cut-out and repurposed.

[Mgt280y]

Thanks for the tips, I don't like 1590a but wanted a challenge and I have 4 laying around.