[SOLVED] MT-2 Diezel Mod problems

[Markus]

So this is my first time trying a mod on a pedal. I had an MT-2 lying around and the Diezel mod (relying on this blog post: http://www.lonephantom.com/2010/03/modding-the-boss-mt-2/) seemed pretty straight forward. I finally got all my parts and completed it today, but I am getting no sound (with the pedal activated or deactivated) at all, just some slight hiss. Wondering if anyone can offer some advice? The only thing I did differently was use a yellow LED instead of a second red one when replacing the diodes.

[robthequiet]

Does it pass sound if the footswitch turns the effect off?

[Markus]

Does it pass sound if the footswitch turns the effect off?

Nope, no sound at all. (checked cables/volume knobs etc.)

[Quackzed]

Diezel mod:

C35: remove
C34: 0.047uF MKT Capacitor
C25: remove
These three mods remove the harshness somewhat.

C42: 1uf MKT Capacitor
D3: Red LED
D4: 1n4001 diode
This makes the sound more dynamic and full.

C36: 0.1uf MKT Capacitor
This makes the EQ more useful.

[robthequiet]

Do you have an extra capacitor handy, say a .001uF or thereabouts, that you could use to jumper across the caps you swapped in? The idea being that some of the caps may not have fully connected.

[Markus]

Do you have an extra capacitor handy, say a .001uF or thereabouts, that you could use to jumper across the caps you swapped in? The idea being that some of the caps may not have fully connected.

I'll try that tomorrow,thanks for the idea!

[Elijah-Baley]

I have an MT-2, and I did just this mod, for the moment:
C35: remove
C34: 0.047uF MKT Capacitor
C25: remove
C42: 1uf MKT Capacitor
(Changed R10, the CLR, and the status led)
Every time I changed something I tested the pedal.

Try to look around the soldering you did if there's something contacts between the tracks.

I guess you are sure about the right position of the new components, or about the components removed. And the orientation of the new diodes. Right?

[Markus]

Do you have an extra capacitor handy, say a .001uF or thereabouts, that you could use to jumper across the caps you swapped in? The idea being that some of the caps may not have fully connected.

Thanks to everyone, especially Rob! Tested all the replaced parts' connections today as he advised and found the bad one. Now I know to test every step of the way. Thanks again

[robthequiet]

Rock on, sweet victory!