EXCELLENT NON POP 3PDT.

[deadastronaut]

By a happy accident i ripped out a few wires from my true bypass

breadboard 3pdt toggle switch..when it fell off my bench..

so i swore a little, then took the advantage of stripping all wires off and trying the

input and output grounding 3pdt wiring...
plus the AMZ led anti pop..and its great, totally silent now.

i use a lot of delays and reverbs, so switching can be a pain in the butt when playing..

anyway, i put a basic buffer and booster on the breadboard just to test it out..

i had lots of delay and long reverb kicking back at me...and voila' switching is great..
not a tick or click at all with mass reverb/delay...i am a convert...

here it is....enjoy.

[YouAre]

Grounding the input AND output of the PCB! Gonna give this a shot!

[deadastronaut]

well worth it imo....

[anotherjim]

I like it very much.
There does seem to be strong enough capacitive coupling between contacts in those switches. Anybody with a cap meter measured it? Grounding the circuit instead of letting it float should be useful. I know it isn't totally floating if we have anti-pop resistors on-board, but they have to be high resistance so full grounding ought to be better. And there's a grounded switch contact between in and out of the circuit too, screening the in and out apart - might cure squealing high gain problems.

I've seen some wiring diagrams using conventional changeover wiring that put the signal wires on the outer contacts and switch the LED with the middle contacts - same idea but not grounding?

[Ben Lyman]

That's the same switch wiring I've been using for a while but I didn't know about the little anti-LED-pop rigging.

What if I want to do that with a clear blue LED and a 47k resistor?
Same thing?
Just ad the 10uF and 330r?

[deadastronaut]

ben, yep..

ive only tried this with a red diffused, but im guessing you'll be ok.

alter top resistor for brightness..

[rutabaga bob]

Mr. Rob,
  Is this supposed to be used just for the 'pop'?  It looks like what we all use for LED indicators, with the extra parts thrown in.

[LightSoundGeometry]

that is exactly how I been doing it since my plexi crunch incident, I am still using pulldown resistors along with the LED bleeder to help even more.

there is still a slight pop of the actual mechanical switch itself, sort of an echo if you will bouncing off the AL walls..i think someone called it the piezoelectric affect but its very minimal.

my plexi popping thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=114799.msg1066206#msg1066206

[LightSoundGeometry]

I like it very much.
There does seem to be strong enough capacitive coupling between contacts in those switches. Anybody with a cap meter measured it? Grounding the circuit instead of letting it float should be useful. I know it isn't totally floating if we have anti-pop resistors on-board, but they have to be high resistance so full grounding ought to be better. And there's a grounded switch contact between in and out of the circuit too, screening the in and out apart - might cure squealing high gain problems.

I've seen some wiring diagrams using conventional changeover wiring that put the signal wires on the outer contacts and switch the LED with the middle contacts - same idea but not grounding?

every pedal I had that squealed needed spread apart as far as possible and closed up in a case.

[deadastronaut]

heres the original AMZ article...sorry should have linked that earlier.

http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm

[YouAre]

So this got me thinking, can we somehow utilize the principles from the thread below?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=81550.0

It's a thread on avoiding pops when switching tone caps in a wah pedal. The solution was to bridge the caps with a high resistance. We kind of do that with our 1MEG+ pull down resistors in our modern effects wiring techniques.


I'm probably going to experiment with this myself, but what if we were to bridge some of these lugs with a high value resistor? I was thinking bridging the in-jack to the PCB-in via a large value resistor, and the out-jack and PCB-out by 1MEG+ resistors.

Sure, it may have an effect on bypass tone, but wouldn't this bridge the voltage gap to help mitigate pop even more?

Also, is there a capacitance build up between switch terminals? Would the bridging resistor I described above serve to bleed off the residual voltage buildup in this instance?

Thank you!

[aishabag23]

By a happy accident i ripped out a few wires from my true bypass

breadboard 3pdt toggle switch..when it fell off my bench..

so i swore a little, then took the advantage of stripping all wires off and trying the

input and output grounding 3pdt wiring...
plus the AMZ led anti pop..and its great, totally silent now.

i use a lot of delays and reverbs, so switching can be a pain in the butt when playing..

anyway, i put a basic buffer and booster on the breadboard just to test it out..

i had lots of delay and long reverb kicking back at me...and voila' switching is great..
not a tick or click at all with mass reverb/delay...i am a convert...

here it is....enjoy.

It seems I'm getting a 404 - not found error from Dropbox. Is this image hosted elsewhere, perhaps? Thanks!

[YouAre]

By a happy accident i ripped out a few wires from my true bypass

breadboard 3pdt toggle switch..when it fell off my bench..

so i swore a little, then took the advantage of stripping all wires off and trying the

input and output grounding 3pdt wiring...
plus the AMZ led anti pop..and its great, totally silent now.

i use a lot of delays and reverbs, so switching can be a pain in the butt when playing..

anyway, i put a basic buffer and booster on the breadboard just to test it out..

i had lots of delay and long reverb kicking back at me...and voila' switching is great..
not a tick or click at all with mass reverb/delay...i am a convert...

here it is....enjoy.

It seems I'm getting a 404 - not found error from Dropbox. Is this image hosted elsewhere, perhaps? Thanks!

I believe I have it saved on my desktop. If there's an issue, I can always upload.

[aishabag23]

Yes, please! Thank you.

[GGBB]

Not sure if this is the same as the OP, but here's my version:

[Plexi]

I'll try!
Rob, what about your method? (lost image link  )

[deadastronaut]

Hi man, as gordo posted, but with the amz led pop too.



resistor x2
cap to ground
led...

edit, i just had the in tied to ground...but the gordo diagram should be even better...

[Ben Lyman]

Do you think it matters if you put the cap & resistors between the LED and DC jack or between LED and switch? I recently modded my Dynacomp clone and it was just easier to slip it all in between LED and footswitch so I did it like that. It reduced the pop by a lot, not all the way but acceptable. Now my LED surges very bright for a fraction of a second when I switch it on. BTW, I have been using the switch diagram posted above by Gord, it's my favorite

[GGBB]

Do you think it matters if you put the cap & resistors between the LED and DC jack or between LED and switch? I recently modded my Dynacomp clone and it was just easier to slip it all in between LED and footswitch so I did it like that. It reduced the pop by a lot, not all the way but acceptable. Now my LED surges very bright for a fraction of a second when I switch it on. BTW, I have been using the switch diagram posted above by Gord, it's my favorite

Cap needs to be "upstream" from the LED anode and always connected to supply - that's all that matters. The Cap acts as an extra power reserve for when the LED is turned on so that the sudden draw of current doesn't have to come from the main supply which affects the circuit. So the cap needs to be able to stay charged up when the LED is off. If it's disconnected from the supply with the path to ground through the LED intact, it will discharge through the LED (the LED would have a fade out effect).

Whether the whole shebang is between supply and switch, or the cap is between supply and switch with the LED between switch and ground - doesn't matter IMO.

[JustinFun]

I like the idea of this so i knocked up a simple PCB - I'm having 10 fabbed.

Once (if!) it's verified I'll stick the gerber up here in case anyone else wants to make some.