Joyo American Sound R24 Resistor Value

[wilsonsk]

Does anyone know what the R24 resistor values are for the American Sound and the AC Tone?  I modded my American Sound, lost R24, and soldered a two legged 2.7K in it's place, sounds good, so I either guessed right, or it doesn't have much impact on sound.

[caspercody]

Did you do the cab bypass mod?

[wilsonsk]

I did do the cab bypass mod, I actually was in a hurry (which helps explain R24 flying off into oblivion) so I didn't put in a switch for now, just desoldered R28 jumper and bypassed to R24. I will go back sometime and finish maybe, but I'm going to gig with it tomorrow and see how I like it, I have 4 or 5 gigs on it stock, it was useable that way, I'll use it all night tomorrow and see what I think.

I have the AC Tone too, I'm going to mod that as well, I'd really like to know what R24 is though so I can put the right two legger in there.

[caspercody]

My R24 says 333

Can you tell me what is down and to the right of R24? To thr right of R25. I think it was a capacitor.

I tried the mod and now it does not work. I lost that part.

Bought a new one for $33.00, so not to upset, and now have one I can maybe experiment with.

[wilsonsk]

I don't know how to post a pic, I don't have mine opened up, but I have some pics off of the net that probably show what you are looking for. I'm not sure what the policy is on putting a link to another forum, but there is pretty good instructions with pictures of this on another forum.

[bluebunny]

I don't know how to post a pic

Click on Mona: .  This gives you two [img][/img] tags.  Get the URL of your picture (it has to be a picture - JPG, GIF, etc. - and it has to live on the Internet somewhere) and paste this URL between the tags.

[wilsonsk]

[bluebunny]

...and the picture can't be hosted at "the other place".   

[wilsonsk]

I maybe of little help here then.

[bluebunny]

Copy the picture, post it to imgur.com, post a link from there.

[wilsonsk]

[PRR]

http://imgur.com/W3b5Jwk

That's the whole page with an image in it.

Right-click on the image, find "Copy Image Location".



http://i.imgur.com/W3b5Jwk.jpg

[caspercody]

Had to try myself, haven't had much luck pasting images in this forum.

Got my new American sound, will open up and look at cap value to try to fix my non-working one. Will try to do bypass again with non-working one. Not even going to try again with new one.

[Avm]

Hello, can somebody tell me how to the mod on a pcb board. i already destroyed two american sound with my soldering iron. Not a very hot one either. Is there a way to do this with conducive glue, or perhaps special type of tin? Best wishes, anne

[iainpunk]

hey Anne, welcome to the forum

there are no reliable, non-toxic, easily usable conductive glues to my knowledge if you exclude soldering tin. (its just fancy hot glue, so i count tin as a glue.)

important tool for soldering SMD is having ceramic or other non-metal non-plastic tweezers, so you can keep the tiny parts on their place, a lobster claw will work too, ofcourse


cheers, Iain

[ShadSunsCrash]

Hello, can somebody tell me how to the mod on a pcb board. i already destroyed two american sound with my soldering iron. Not a very hot one either. Is there a way to do this with conducive glue, or perhaps special type of tin? Best wishes, anne

Since this post is only a few months old I thought I'd help you out since you're likely still lost when it comes to soldering. I build my own pedals from my own schematics/layouts and do side jobs as a repair guy for friends and friends of friends of friends of friends lol. Anyways it sounds like your problem is that your iron isnt hot enough. You said your iron "isnt even a very hot one". That's actually worse for your pcb/joints/pads etc
With a quality iron at a decent temp you can quickly melt solder and wet the solder pad then move away. But with a non temp controlled low wattage iron there ist enough heat to quickly desolder parts or solder them so you end up burning up your components and the traces before your solder begins to flow. Plus without adding flux or fresh solder to old joints your just spinning your wheels (more on that later). So heres a few tips that will turn you into a pretty proficient solderer in no time.

1. Never use "Lead Free" solder. The only people who use "Lead Free" are using it because the government is making them since the EPA is cracking down on leaded solders in consumer electronics etc. Lead free flows poorly and takes much more heat to start flowing. So throw out the Walmart solder and get some leaded 63/37 "No clean" or 63/37 "RA" from Amazon (60/40 is also acceptable in either flux type but the 63/37 has more lead so it will melt/flow at a lower temp). The solder will come in little tubs made buy MG Chemicals for just a few dollars. You can also buy spools once you get to the point you'll need that much.

2. Ditch the dollar store/RadioShack single plug iron. It's doing more harm than good and even if you were a good solderer youd have trouble getting consistent results. Instead get a HAKKO clone from ebay or Amazon (937D+) is what I use and it's a great little temp controlled solder station for about $30-$40. And while your at it buy some extra tips that work for your model number (just not on ebay for the tips since you could end up with tips that break down after one use). Your replacement tips do not need to be expensive but they should have good reviews, just check Amazon. Type in your solder station number along with "replacement tips" in the search engine on amazon. I recommend you stick to the regular conical shaped tips for now. It's all I ever use except in very specific situations where I need quicker more efficient heat transfer. For mosfet heat sinks or anything with a lot of mass for example. For guitar and guitar pedal work the plain conical tips will be perfectly fine handling anything you throw at them.

3. Leaded solder has a rosin flux core but if you use extra flux (paste, liquid etc I use liquid but recommend you use paste as it's easier to control) then everything gets even easier.You dont have to use extra flux but once you do you'll see where its application can make quick work of more difficult parts. But if your working on SMD parts as opposed to bigger through hole parts extra flux is a must.

I know it seems like a lot but you'll quickly realize if you follow those guidelines that it wasnt your inexperience that was burning up boards an components as much as it was your poor tools. Learning to solder well and read schematics is an excellent way to get more out of your gear. And building your own pedals from scratch is incredibly rewarding. Good luck, let me know if you have questions along the way.