breaded up a son of screamer..however..

[deadastronaut]

only another 28 to go...

[Ben Lyman]

Ya, the 5k1, as I said before this is the part missing from the Electrosmash diagram. They forgot that you can turn the pot fully either way but there is still going to be a 20k pot between the pins no matter what. Lowering this resistance yields different results, in our case 5k (your pot, my fixed) and I like the results, I think maybe we have boosted the mids by doing this but I'm not yet certain of that.

I left out the extra cap and diodes (D4, D5) for my build, it just goes beyond necessity for me but it is fun to experiment with, I tried a couple 1n914 and got a nice compressed fuzzy tone, my weird HP/Motorola diodes were very cool too, and  LEDs didn't do anything iirc.

If
we
write
like
this,
we
can
get
there
faster!

[deadastronaut]

ok
i
will
try
that
5k
across
6/5
then..

c
h
e
e
r
s

[Cozybuilder]

Just don't type right to left please 

esaelp tfel ot thgir epyt t'nod tsuJ

[Ben Lyman]

?
p
o
t

o
t

m
o
t
t
o
b

t
u
o
b
a

t
a
h
w

[deadastronaut]

[vigilante397]

I'm sure we will hit 30+ pages either way, may as well just let it happen

[deadastronaut]

yeah, theres no rush......

[Kipper4]

Update schematic please...

[Ben Lyman]

My build is like this, I went with Rob's assy diodes&LED permanently, I liked it the best.
The 470K/10k switch allows for a nice range of light OD to heavy distortion.
C4 and C7 are socketed, on the BB I needed 470p and 4n7 to tame the squeal but on my build I have been getting those values much lower and bringing back the bite without the squeal.


Rob, have you tried the SWTC II from AMZ? It looks like it might be cool: http://www.muzique.com/lab/swtc.htm

Gus has a cool value change for the BMP, might be worth a shot:
B100K pot with 2x 47K and 2x 10n. Here's my poorly drawn scheme:

[deadastronaut]

cool, i'll give it a whirl man....

[Kipper4]

Does it not oscillate with R15?

[Ben Lyman]

Does it not oscillate with R15?

No, R15 is the same as having Rob's 5K tone pot right there. R15 could also be a 20K just like the original TS9 value. I got it down as low as 820 ohms! A jumper kills the pedal but different values of resistance just yield different tones. I like the 5k1 there, I think it gives a little sparkle and mid boost without sacrificing the bass.

[Ben Lyman]

All boxed up, C4 is 47pF and C7 is down to 2n2, otherwise just as my last schematic.
Metallic green seemed like the obvious choice for this one 

[deadastronaut]

cool, love the colour, goes well with the cream knobs...excellent. 

shielded input?.

[duck_arse]

Just don't type right to left please 

esaelp tfel ot thgir epyt t'nod tsuJ

cozy - are your teeth really that symmetric?

Ben - too late now, but - R10 will take a much smaller value cap to stop squeel. find that value and solder it in as C7. then switch the 10k into circuit, find the (now larger) value to squuel stop, and solder that across R1, so you are switching squealer caps w/ the boast switch. [note: I haven't yet BB'd a screamer, so I don't know this is correct. I'll maybe start a thread - "breaded up a screamer", or something.]

Rob - pp - that's my contribution to your page appeal.

[Ben Lyman]

Thanks Rob, no special shielding, just 24g solid wire from jack to switch and switch to board, etc.

Thanks Duck, good idea, luckily it sounds good either way so I won't be modding this one.

One issue though, it's output level is quite high. Would there be an easy fix for that? Would lowering the Volume pot from 100k down to something between 10k and 50k make a difference?

Right now the operational range of the volume knob is about 1-3 on a scale of 1-10

[duck_arse]

use a 50k pot w/ 47k, 56k or 68k resistor in series with the cw lug.

[Ben Lyman]

Ok, so I'm thinking of simply tacking a 51k across 1-3 on the 100k vol pot to make it about 50k.

How about I then run the 47k resistor in series with the wiper to the output (3PDT)? Would that achieve the same goal but in a different way?

[anotherjim]

I think I can see a way to add some kind of burst function. All it would take is an inch of waxed cloth over vulcanised rubber 7/16 cable taken from a Russian 1950's surgical vibrator. If the idea hasn't been patented, I'll post the schematic, naturally. Actually, where the Mojo wire should go is pretty obvious, so I'll let you work it out for yourselves.