Fuzz pedal takes a moment to 'warm up' when i turn the bypass switch off?

Started by Se7en_Costanza, November 27, 2016, 06:09:28 PM

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Se7en_Costanza

I built a bazz fuss clone with a few ad ones and component changes, and everything works fine, except when i turn off the bypass so i can hear the standard effect, the effect takes a second to warm up a bit, i feel like its the capacitors but i dont know how to fix this?

GibsonGM

Welcome to the forum.  What 'changes' and stuff did you make?   Is the diode the right way around in the circuit?

Not that uncommon a problem....you can hear Hendrix' fuzz do that is Axis:Bold as Love, as he runs triplets up into the solo.   It fades in.

I believe that diode in the Bazz is a charge path for the cap.   Does your bypass switch ground the input when it is off?
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Se7en_Costanza

I am running a in4148 diode as i didnt have any 1n914's at the time, and i changed the input cap to a 10uf. No ive done the more standard footswitch wiring, like in this diagram http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/faq/switchwiringpnp.gif

Would changing the diode to a 1n914 and the switch wiring fix the problem? as i have those diodes now.

and the reason i changed the input cap was because i swear it sounds better with a 10uf, more hazy and gloomy or something to my ears anyway, for guitar especially.

bluebunny

1N4148 vs. 1N914 won't make any difference.  The 4148 is a slightly better 914.
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antonis

With a 10μF input cap and that switch wiring (without IN grounding when OFF) you should also have popping issues...
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GibsonGM

Changing the input cap is fine, that is "tuning the circuit" here, for the sound you want.  It probably IS contributing to the 'delay' (for sure).   And as the other guys said, the 914 is a fine replacement for 4148.     I would try to re-wire the switch to ground the input when in bypass.
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Mark Hammer

Um, you didn't happen to wire the switch so that power is only applied to the circuit and LED when you engage the effect, did you?  That would generally produce what you describe.

duck_arse



the dia above shows an input attenuater pot, is this how you wired yours? with that 10uF cap, it needs to be both wired the right way round, and a pull-down resistor. the 50k Log pot performs the pulldown in the dia, but can be replaced with a 1M if you have a volume pot instead.
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