Tiny giant pcb to speaker

[Mgt280y]

Just wondering is there a "best practice" in terms of connections and wire type, for getting from the spkr pads on my tga pcb to the speaker
Thanks all

[PRR]

> "best practice" ... tga pcb to the speaker

Tiny Giant, neither side of the speaker is at-ground, so 1/4" plugs are not-right.

"Best Practice" would be speakON, professional connectors made for speakers.

Home-brew not being kicked around, I might favor "5 way binding posts" as found on most older pro power amplifiers.

I don't see how wire-type from PCB to connector matters a bit. Smaller than #30 is at some risk of melting, but that's mechanically dubious anyway. Fat #10 wire would tend to rip off the PCB pads. Lamp-cord may be a fine size, or cheap speaker wire.

Wire from amp to speaker, all the usual constraints. Will it be stepped on? Is it very long (>20 feet)? For amp next to speaker, lamp-cord is slightly over-kill but cheap.

[Mgt280y]

Right I have used the biggest wire that fits into the pads on pcb I am running a very short length to the speaker max 12 inch
In terms of speakers I think I'm going to use 2x

http://celestion.com/product/161/bl10100x/


So they are 8ohm does any one know what will work best wiring wise wire for 4 ohms or 8ohms meantioned in another post tga running at 15v so 20watts at 4 0hms or 12 watts at 8 ohms, it is a practice cab so I am looking for quality over quantity

[anotherjim]

Any multi strand 2core flex will do. Consider what 20w (ish) stereo units come supplied with  - bell wire! Choose a size that's a good fit to the pcb holes. I prefer a twisted pair, because chip amps can pick up RF from phones via the speaker wires and the twisting cancels it out some. Round sheathed 2 core lamp flex is twisted while figure 8, obviously not.
Although I see commercial stuff with spade crimps on speaker terminals, they are often a loose and poor fit - usually the male spade part of the speaker terminals is just too thin - even on name brands like Celestion. I would wrap & solder.

Are you building a combo? Even if it is, I find it far more convenient to have a speaker jack at the amp chassis rear and a floating jack plug to the internal speakers. Solid-state amps do not mind being run without speaker load, so a permanent hard-wired speaker connection only makes any future repair work harder. I've seen horrors in name brand combo's where the speaker connection is all internal and -  to make matters worse -  is hot glued where it leaves the amp chassis into the speaker compartment.

[PRR]

I don't think it is critical. Really-- I would find an old lamp and cut the cord off. I realize US lampcord may be smaller than in the UK, but at few-foot distance there is NO difference. 4 feet of our #16 is 0.016 Ohms, which is so much-much less than 4 Ohms that the electrons won't notice the trip.

EDIT -- OK, the smallest UK lamp "flex", 0.5 mm^2, good for 3 Amp loading (which would be almost any domestic lamp) is 0.05 Ohms per meter. That's still insignificant.


If you have to run across a large stage, I would reach for 1 mm^2 10-Amp stuff, my #18.

Note particularly that in a Guitar (or Bass) amp you do NOT want too good a connection from amplifier to speaker. We want the speaker cone to have "tone", not do exactly what the amplifier says.