Ibanez TS808 footswitch repair

[thermionix]

Well, yesterday I only had time to solder the jumpers on the 3pdt switch (pins 1-6 and 3-9).
I hope I wont be interrupted tonight.

Thermionix, can I ask why you removed all of those parts?

I didn't want any unused components touching the signal, and I didn't want any unused components drawing current from the battery.  I may have removed one or two more things than I needed to, but that way I was sure.  It worked, customer is happy, I'm happy.

[Hemmel]

I didn't want any unused components touching the signal, and I didn't want any unused components drawing current from the battery.

That's actually a very good idea.
I'll try doing the same. Hopefully tonight.

[Hemmel]

Pedal is working.
Here's a quick recap:

Components removed:
- R126
- D107

Old momentary switch removed
- De-soldered both wires at the switch
- De-soldered live wire from pad 2 of PCB and re-soldered where cathode of D107 was. Other end of wire goes to pin 4 of 3PDT switch. This is to use the same current limiter resistor for the LED.
- Ground wire stayed on output jack sleeve, other end goes to pin 5 of 3PDT switch.

Adding 3PDT switch
- De-soldered wire from input jack tip and put it on pin 1 of 3PDT. Other end of wire stays on pad 11 of PCB.
- De-soldered wire from output jack tip and put it on pin 7 of 3PDT. Other end of wire stays on pad 1 of PCB.
- New wire from pin 2 of 3PDT to input jack tip.
- New wire from pin 8 of 3PDT to output jack tip.
- Jumpers between pins 1-6 and 3-9.
- Hole for momentary switch is a bit bigger than hole needed for 3PDT switch. Had to manage with 2 plastic washers to prevent 3PDT switch from moving.

Battery
- Old styrofoam used to protect switch from battery is now too big. Battery can fit snug between 3PDT switch and bottom of enclosure, but I need to find a way to isolate battery from switch with something very small.
- Battery door closes, but much tighter than before. The 3PDT switch takes up more space inside enclosure than the momentary switch.

Thanks to all who helped with this, especially thermionix.
I forgot to put back the plastic sheet that prevents the PCB from shorting on the metal bottom of the enclosure, so I have to open the pedal again. I'll try removing the additional components you mentioned.

[thermionix]

No problem!  It's not often that I can be of any help to people here, so I guess I kinda leapt at the chance.

I used one of the smaller-body switches...

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/low-profile-3pdt-switch/

...left a little more room for the battery.  But I think it still works out with the more "standard"-size 3PDTs.  I insulated the switch lugs with a cut out piece of the original foam, but I think the customer uses a power supply anyway.  I thought about gooping it with hot glue, but I wanted to make it so future switch replacement was relatively easy.  It might be ME that has to do it after all!

I desoldered D107 and Q102 because I had to solder in a wire and a jumper, but all the other components I removed were just snipped out.  Figured that was safest, because desoldering always includes some risk of damage to the PCB (lifting traces).  R121 was difficult to get to even with my small side cutters, other components in the way, so I probably would desolder that too if I had it to do again.

Porbably more detail than you need, but somebody might use this thread as a guide in the future, so just laying it all out there.

[Hemmel]

Porbably more detail than you need, but somebody might use this thread as a guide in the future, so just laying it all out there.

Same reason why I put everything I did.
For now I think I'll just leave everything as is since it's working. I'll just re-open the pedal to put back the plastic to prevent shorting the PCB.