Quality of Tayda's 3PDT Switches?

[xorophone]

Hello! I just realised Tayda has really cheap shipping to Sweden ($1.03) and since that's really hard to find, I was just wondering if the quality of their 3PDT switches are good. Which one is the best? And what type of switching mechanism do they use? Are they the "clicky type" or the "soft" ones? (I've forgotten what the different types are called at the moment.) If they have both, I'd probably prefer the soft type, but I'll have to compare them.

Thanks!

[a2music]

I use a ton of their switches. The 3PDT with gold plating have a 0% failure rate in my experience (several dozen switches so far)

[xorophone]

I use a ton of their switches. The 3PDT with gold plating have a 0% failure rate in my experience (several dozen switches so far)

Thanks for the reply! How do they feel when you press them? Do they have a click or are they "smooth"?

[a2music]

Sturdy click!


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[ShOrEbReAk]

I have also used them and found no problems with them yet.

I agree with a2music on the click.

Troy

[alr300]

I've used Tayda 3PDT in about half the pedals I've built, maybe more.  One one occasion I received a defective switch which would not actually connect to one side/row.  One other switch was pretty stiff (harder to push, loud click), but still worked fine.  Overall, I still buy them, and I would say the defect rate is acceptably low--especially given the price. 

[xorophone]

Sturdy click!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have also used them and found no problems with them yet.

I agree with a2music on the click.

Troy

I've used Tayda 3PDT in about half the pedals I've built, maybe more.  One one occasion I received a defective switch which would not actually connect to one side/row.  One other switch was pretty stiff (harder to push, loud click), but still worked fine.  Overall, I still buy them, and I would say the defect rate is acceptably low--especially given the price. 

Thanks! I'll probably order some and try them out. I've only used the really cheap chinese switches so far, but I just hate how the click feels on those. Good to have lying around for smaller projects though.

[wavley]

I haven't had any problems with the 20 or so that I've bought there.  I tend to not order from any one place for any one thing, some places have what I need for a particular project so I'll pick whatever else I happen to need or can use while I'm there.  No complaints about Tayda.  Small Bear, pedal parts plus, mouser, mammoth... all have great service and stuff in my experience.  I've been lucky and not really gotten any bum stuff or bad service from any of the parts places.

[chumbox]

Order nearly all my parts and definitely all my switches from Tayda and never had a dud or a complaint. Probably built 30+ pedals from their stuff. For the price it's not boutique but it's good stuff. Sturdy click here also!

[Plexi]

I'm looking the soft click ones. I see someones are turquoise.
Any idea?

Does tayda have them?

[antonis]

I'm looking the soft click ones. I see someones are turquoise.
Any idea?

No idea about the way colour can affect hardness....

[caspercody]

Type this in their search:

SPST Momentary Soft Touch Push Button Stomp Foots / Pedal Switch

They have (2) different styles.

[nonoxxx]

I don't try their 3PDT but SPDT and DPDT are fines.

[Plexi]

I'm looking the soft click ones. I see someones are turquoise.
Any idea?

No idea about the way colour can affect hardness....

Only if they combine with a nice black unsolder mask 

[Mark Hammer]

Sometimes they arrive with shiny contacts that solder loves.  Sometimes they come a little tarnished/oxidized and solder is a little shy to fully tin the contacts.  Make sure to scrape any contacts that aren't nice and shiny with whatever you use for a utility knife blade.

make sure you tin the lugs before attempting to solder leads, and make sure you don't apply heat for too long; allowing a little cooling off between heat applications, if you feel it is needed.

[davepedals]

I have purchased at least 45 of them in the past and have never had a failure.

[amz-fx]

Sometimes they arrive with shiny contacts that solder loves.  Sometimes they come a little tarnished/oxidized and solder is a little shy to fully tin the contacts.  Make sure to scrape any contacts that aren't nice and shiny with whatever you use for a utility knife blade.

make sure you tin the lugs before attempting to solder leads, and make sure you don't apply heat for too long; allowing a little cooling off between heat applications, if you feel it is needed.

Flux is your friend     I have a flux pen that I use for contacts and lugs.

regards, Jack

[Mark Hammer]

+100

Buy yourself a small bottle of liquid flux, keep some Q-tips and toothpicks on hand, and your solder joints will generally go well.  Just don't tip over an open bottle of the stiff like I did. 

[EBK]

You could also go with flux paste, like I do.  Spill proof. 
(Get it in a metal tin, if possible, so you can dip your soldering iron into it.)

[Mark Hammer]

Personally - and this is not any sort of diss to other forms - I prefer the liquid stuff.  When I etch a board, I generally apply a thin coat over the traces, and immediately tin the entire board so that traces and pads remain amenable to "improvised" connections and additions down the line.  Flux pens, and other devices may be entirely suitable to various specific uses.  I like my liquid flux because I can do everything with it.  The only thing I can't do is get it out of the damn carpet below my desk!