EQD Bellows breadboard layout, Does this look correct?

Started by Fndr8875, January 28, 2017, 10:20:51 PM

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Fndr8875

So i am away from home and decided to play with diy layout creator, I have a schematic and the layout i created. I cant test it for couple days until i get home.

Can anyone take a look and see if it looks correct?

its only a few components so its not really organized for compactness or neatness,





Fndr8875


garcho

You've got the gain wired as a variable resistor, when you want it wired as a potentiometer, according to the schematic. If you look at the input on the schematic you'll see three numbers near the pot symbol, referring to the three terminals. The input is connected to terminal 3, C1 is connected to terminal 2, R1 is connected to terminal 1. Right now, you have the pot wired as a variable resistor in series with R1.
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"...and weird on top!"

Plexi

I'm looking for some PF5102 with no results.
Any equivalent advise? 2N5457?
To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

garcho

from Mouser

Product Category:   JFET   
Manufacturer:   Fairchild Semiconductor   
RoHS:   RoHS Compliant Details   
Mounting Style:   Through Hole   
Package / Case:   TO-92   
Transistor Polarity:   N-Channel   
Configuration:   Single   
Vgs - Gate-Source Breakdown Voltage:   - 40 V   
Drain-Source Current at Vgs=0:   5 mA to 15 mA   
Pd - Power Dissipation:   625 mW   
Series:   PF5102   
Packaging:   Bulk   
Brand:   Fairchild Semiconductor   
Forward Transconductance - Min:   0.0035 S   
Gate-Source Cutoff Voltage:   - 1.6 V   
Operating Temperature Range:   - 55 C to + 150 C   
Factory Pack Quantity:   10000   
Unit Weight:   0.007090 oz
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"...and weird on top!"

Fndr8875

j201 is what is being used in circuit, they are top choices for replacaements of each other from my readin if i remember, kinda like pn2907a is same as 2n2907a or close enought, i think thats a correct comparison.

I corrected the variable gain pot directly underneath the first pic. I ge thrown off by fet pin outs its like hey are 312 instead of 123 or 321. Assuming the fet is a J201 does this look accurate? thanks for any replies

Fndr8875


Plexi

Great info!

I share here this article that I readed time ago when I was looking for J201's replacement:
http://stompville.co.uk/?p=763

Me too, Fndr8875: the best layout website if you ask me.

I'll try with 2N5457 and see how it goes.
BTW: is true that the 2n5457 is discontinued?  :-\
To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

Fndr8875

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=101568.0

well this post was from 2013 saying they are/were...there are still GE trannys around that were discontiuned idk 50 years ago, there extremely expensive compared to newer components, but 20 bucks is really nothing say if fuzz factory is your go to main pedal. But its rediculously expensive if you just wanna tinker around and enjoy the whole building process. for me $1 components im all anal with if im breadboarding or whatever, haha, sounds dumb but things can start adding up fast on certain builds. Well let me know if it works, i really hope it does , i wanna start doing more breadboarding to help me understand things better and tweak things, im jst impatient and its really tedious on large circuits

Plexi

Yes, you're right!

I'm waiting the circuit board (on acid). Its a small one, so maybe in a few hours I can tell.
I'll solder the 2N5457's on the board... no socket: just the hardcore way (¿)  ;D

I haven't any 5817 diode: 1n4007 would work too?
It's what effectslayout recomends.
To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

PRR

> kinda like pn2907a is same as 2n2907a or close enough

"2N2907A" is a JEDEC-registered part specification, and shows a metal case.

The same chip in a plastic case is some better and gobs cheaper. Some suppliers call these "PN2907A" to make it clear you will get plastic (if you care). Others just sell plastic '2907 as 2N parts.

Metal case was better than the earliest plastics. Modern plastic is better than metal in almost all ways. Metal may still be preferred in some military or space applications, or where you must heat-sink a '2907 and do not wish to discard the existing for-metal sink and buy the 7-cent sink for a plastic device. In Stomp World you just do not care, except Metal is prettier and that makes you play better.
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Plexi

Ok.... I'm back with good news  ;D

Used 2N5457 as I said, and man... this thing is damn loud!
Love it!

Gain and volume are quite interactive.
I used Log pots instead of Lin one's; that was what I had on hand...I'll change them asap.

BTW; I used 1N4007 instead the 5817 that recomend's effectslayout.
To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

Fndr8875

its just for reverse polarity protection so u cant burn effect up if you used a positive ground power, adapter think the 4007 is 1000v and 4001 is 50v so youll have more volume w 1n4007, ive never measured it w multi meter to see how much voltage drop there is between those two diodes, the 5817 seems to be the main one used, so im sure its got even less voltage drop and better protection for circuit but havent googled why.  but circuit will work with out diode and other 100uf which is for power filtering ie less noise n all that good stuff. so did u breadboard it before u etched it, i built one on vero while back and it was pretty freaking loud but sounded good, i didnt box it up and not sure what happened to little thing. I use a solid state amp and when i heard the guy who started EQD and designed this effect, i watched some demos and was like hell yea, perfect amount of grit and handful of components. Cant wait to get back home and get another one of these going, congrats on your build! love to see some pics if you wanna post them.

Fndr8875

im not sure where i came up with that PRR about the 2907, think i had one to many that night lol, think i was thinking fet used was pf201 , but its 102. if my drunken logic was somehow correct then the mpf102 would be the choice, but as i said think i just thought i knew what i was talking about lol. i do know the pn2907 sounds better than 2n2907a in the Soda Meiser, but obviously looks way less metal haha

bluebunny

Quote from: PRR on January 30, 2017, 05:09:28 PM
. . . except Metal is prettier and that makes you play better.

I wish it were that simple, Paul.  <sigh>   :icon_neutral:
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

Plexi

Thanks Fndr8875!

Sure! I asked to the master of effectslayouts blog about the diodes, and he recomended 4007 instead of 1N60 (I though it was the perfect replacement).
Isn't noisy at all, even when it's outside any metal chassis.

I love that its f*cking loud ..! The gain character depends a lot on the volume level, very interactive in any position, even though I used log pots.
It'll get better when I replace them with Lineal ones.



Sorry the poor quality pic
I'll post a short video later  :)
To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

garcho

#16
Quotethe 4007 is 1000v and 4001 is 50v so youll have more volume w 1n4007

Not trying to poke fun at you, but just so you know, you're way off. The reverse polarity protection diodes you find in stompboxes are there for only one reason - to protect the rest of the circuit downstream from the power supply, in the event that you touch the wrong battery leads to the clip (easy to do) or wire the DC jack incorrectly (easy to do) or events of that nature. Some components can fry if the polarity is reversed, the protection diode prevents that from happening and has NO IMPACT ON VOLUME IN ANY WAY. Since you're obviously excited about building guitar effects, do yourself a big favor and read up on electricity and electronics basics. There is a ton of great info in books and online. A decent enough and free place to start is here:

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/
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"...and weird on top!"

Fndr8875

#17
lol, i understand why a diiode is there for RP protection as i said so it would protect the circuit against getting fried, in terms of subbing the 1n60 diodes for 1n4007s they will most def be a change in volume as thats the clipping portion of circuit , i dont pretend to be any expert or claim to even understand alot of the factors of why things work as i stated about the 1n5817 diodes use over the 1n4xx for RP protection and why the 5817 seems to be the most pop choice in the pcbs ive bought from madbeans and rullywow. anyhow i do appreciate any contrustive feedback , i started this thread just trying to see if  the simple breadboard layout i created looked correct, not to argue about datasheets or nitpick


ive been messing w the bellows and the speaker cranker, the bellows doesnt even have clipping diodes, was thinking of the speaker cranker

Plexi

I builded the Speaker Cranker a few weeks ago.
The best Electra dist version, IMHO.

I used 1N4148 instead 1N60: I'll try soon with some MPSA13 instead 2N3904.

"More" knob, it's worth repeating that is 'more' a od control than volume.
You can add master volume at the end if you want, but kills the magic.

To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

midwayfair

You definitely want the MPSA13 in this effect. It has a huge, huge effect on how smoothly the transistor operates.

If you didn't already know: You have to squint to see it, but this is a variation on the bazz fuss, though there is some extra sauce going on with the JFET, so reading up on that circuit will give you some insights.
My band, Midway Fair: www.midwayfair.org. Myself's music and things I make: www.jonpattonmusic.com. DIY pedal demos: www.youtube.com/jonspatton. PCBs of my Bearhug Compressor and Cardinal Harmonic Tremolo are available from http://www.1776effects.com!