transistor socketing suggestion for the newbies (and maybe even you)

[pinkjimiphoton]

everyone uses them SIL package strips for sockets. they're everywhere. cut 'em to length, plug stuff in, right?

nope. they SUCK. the sockets don't clamp most connestions firmlly enough to begin with, but after a few component swaps they can be so loose you're debugging needlessly.

my suggestion is to buy 6 pin machined sockets for 6 pin dips.

they are CHEAP. and each one, when cut in half gives you two sockets that will stand up and are way superior to that SIL crap.
when ya plug into them, you feel a good solid connection... even many times later.

i just cut 'em in half with a pair of end cutter style wire clippers. they do require a little trimming, but the fact that they don't fail anywhere near as often or as easily has really endeared them to me.

no more build something, have it not work, and freak the @#$% out til i wiggle a q or something.

check it out, i hope this helps someone out.

[thermionix]

I think the fit might vary from one manufacturer to another.  I got a strip of the SIL stuff from Tayda and the pin sockets are way too loose for most component leads.  But I also got some machined pin DIP-8 sockets from them and they also seem looser than most.  Usable for ICs, but just barely.  I've seen this mentioned in other threads.  I'm gonna try some of the SIL strips that Small Bear carries, maybe it's a bit tighter.  I think "machined pin" might be good and bad.  Great if it's the right fit for what you're stuffing in it, but maybe something with a springy contact is better for a variety of component lead diameters.  And jeez these 1/4W resistors do have some skinny leads.

[pinkjimiphoton]

all the SIL strips i've seen are identical... small bear, tayda, ebay, mouser, my local jobber (cables and connectors).
the stuff is terrible. stick something in once, and it's wasted.

these things don't have the little clip springs, they're just like the machined sockets, the good ones. the cheap ones have them little spring things inside.

so far, these things work well for everything i've thrown at 'em. just right for caps, q's, hell, even resistors won't just fall out like the stuff i used to get.

good luck bro!! i can send ya a couple to check out if ya wanna

[thermionix]

My experience with this stuff is admittedly very limited.  I have an older BYOC tube screamer clone with that came with one of the spring contact DIP sockets that everybody hates.  Well after MANY opamp swaps, maybe a few soldering iron burns (doh!) and 7 or 8 years of use, it still holds the chip firmly.  The machined pin DIP sockets I got from Tayda aren't nearly as tight, brand new.  I'll take your word for it on the SIL strips, because I've only tried the Tayda stuff, and it won't hold an LED for shiite.  I've had good luck with the round transistor sockets, the ones with the offset pins, but they are quite large and obviously won't line up with any PCBs that aren't specifaically drilled for them.  They do work fine with perfboard though.  My "any NPN" one-knob fuzz face:

[pinkjimiphoton]

i've had them spring  clips ones fail on me. they're ok for chips. i tried using them for q's and they were abysmal.
i've also had 'em fall apart on me, that's when i went to the machined socket ones. they seem to work better.

yeah, the old school transistor sockets were cool looking and reliable.

but i've found not to trust ANY of them for anything that goes out in the wild. they fail too too easily.

[davent]

You could always add a dab of solder to the center leg of a socketed transistor before setting it free into the wild. It's swapping days are probably done at that point.

dave

[thermionix]

Idea I had, though I haven't tried it yet, was to add a coating of solder to each component leg to effectively increase the diameter, and thus fit tighter in a loose socket.  I plan to try that with the LED I mentioned above.

[anotherjim]

Solder with lead in it, is useless for friction fit. Lead deforms under pressure. Maybe not right away, but s l o w  l y , like molasses in winter.
I can get SIL turned pin sockets - look the same as as the DIL IC ones to me.
Like these...
https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=225_230&products_id=1648&zenid=2haulchovpvv4himeheob8f304

[pinkjimiphoton]

Idea I had, though I haven't tried it yet, was to add a coating of solder to each component leg to effectively increase the diameter, and thus fit tighter in a loose socket.  I plan to try that with the LED I mentioned above.

dude, don't bother solder is kinda slippery and it's wicked hard to get the right amount on 'em to fit.
i've tried it. it works, kinda. but not a good solution for any length of time in my opinion.

[pinkjimiphoton]

jim, yah man those are identical to all the ones i've seen. none of them seem to hold up well at all.
i think the cavities they machine in them are just too big for most component leads. transistors will fall out, as will caps and resistors etc.
1n400X types will fit and stay tho.
i don't know if the ones i suggest are a smaller bore, or if perhaps they are tapered inside or something,
but you gotta actually WORK to get stuff out of them.

i buy mine in bags of 100 clearance at cablesandconnectors(.com if ya wanna search there, but i think they discontinued them)

mouser has them tho, i get the 6 pin ones. each one is good for two solid sockets that stand up in my experience better than any of the sip strips i've encountered from all the sources i tried.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/273/090-259652.pdf

at mouser they're kind of expensive. not a lot of 6 pin devices in use anymore so maybe surplus electronics places are a better fit.

but this place has 'em for .17 cents a piece

http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=phoenixent&product_name=HWS9025&gclid=CLPHqKbJi9ICFciNswodGYsBdQ

btw i HAVE added the dab of solder as dave suggested and still had problems unless i soldered all the connections.

i really don't like them cheap sil strips. but these other ones seem to work fantastic

[thermionix]

Maybe the REAL answer...is to do all component swapping on the breadboard, and solder everything in the finished product.



Or maybe I'm just back in here for the likes. 

[EBK]

Maybe the REAL answer...is to do all component swapping on the breadboard, and solder everything in the finished product.

My breadboard is not available.  It's inside a box.  With a lid.   

Honestly though, I think you are onto something.  I think I've only once ever swapped a socketed part after final testing.

[digi2t]

I have to admit that I use the SIL type sockets. For sure, they're not the best for just leaving the component in there, especially if I've run a few different components through them. When I do settle on what will stay in there, I just solder the component legs into the sockets.

[amptramp]

Heathkit used an interesting type of socket in the AJ-1510A FM tuner (the first digitally-tuned FM tuner they made and one of the first on the market):  there were high-quality machined pins on a piece of tape.  You soldered the pins and took the tape off and you had freestanding pins that had the minimum of capacitance between them.  They worked but were somewhat susceptible to bending of individual pins.

[pinkjimiphoton]

sometimes i just put the end of my iron on 'em and push 'em right outta the plastic.

but to me, yeah, once i have changed things a couple times all the sips seem to kinda fail. them ic sockets tho are tenacious.

[garcho]

a small dab of hot glue holds things in sockets well, and if you have to replace the component later, it's not hard to deal with.

[stringsthings]

I've also noticed that transistor leads tend not to stay in the SIP sockets. 
But I've found a work-around.  I just flatten the ends of the leads with my needle-nose
and then insert them into the SIP.  Very good results. 

The flattened leads then resemble IC pins.