Rat Ruetz mod on a footswitch

[UnholyRiffs]

I can promise you that is the correct resistor for the ruetz mod. You keep going back and forth on that haha. It worked with the spst switch but not this footswitch.

Nothing to rule out there.

[duck_arse]

me too, I want information. who/what/where did you get the circuit board from/at? just so we can look-up some build docs at our leisure .....

[UnholyRiffs]

Here's a side note:

So pedal build works and sound like intended with the 47r engaged (as in stock to the schematic) wouldn't it be a switch problem, as the switch is the only different factor in the build.

[UnholyRiffs]

me too, I want information. who/what/where did you get the circuit board from/at? just so we can look-up some build docs at our leisure .....

It's just the standard one I already posted. Just a Rat pedal.

[UnholyRiffs]

Similar to this

(ignore the red and green dots and info, not my picture)

[UnholyRiffs]

Am I wrong using this switch??

https://www.mammothelectronics.com/collections/switches/products/4sfs2pdt-lsi

[UnholyRiffs]

When I get to the pedal I'm going to try it this way on the footswitch instead of using both sides of it, hopefully that will fix it.

[duck_arse]

me too, I want information. who/what/where did you get the circuit board from/at? just so we can look-up some build docs at our leisure .....

It's just the standard one I already posted. Just a Rat pedal.

I looked thru my local copies of "just a rat" pedals, and couldn't see a board like yours posted in the photo. I'm interested to know what/where that 390k resistor is in the standard rat circuit.

as none of us except you have the information on your build that you built and is causing you the reutz mod switching problem, the rest of us need to fill in the information we need to build the picture at our ends. to this end, many of us have roundabout ways of getting the complete picture [especially when we can't see any picture].

[UnholyRiffs]

me too, I want information. who/what/where did you get the circuit board from/at? just so we can look-up some build docs at our leisure .....

It's just the standard one I already posted. Just a Rat pedal.

I looked thru my local copies of "just a rat" pedals, and couldn't see a board like yours posted in the photo. I'm interested to know what/where that 390k resistor is in the standard rat circuit.

as none of us except you have the information on your build that you built and is causing you the reutz mod switching problem, the rest of us need to fill in the information we need to build the picture at our ends. to this end, many of us have roundabout ways of getting the complete picture [especially when we can't see any picture].

I completely apologize on that, I ment the schematic on the previous page and just posted a picture of pretty much the layout in a few posts above.

That was the 560r I replaced with the 390k. *edit* (like an idiot as it should have been a 330ohm)

[robthequiet]

Diagnostic suggestion:

1) Cut leads from switch. Leave open and test pedal.

2) Then twist or clip together leads so they are hardwired, then test pedal.

Will help to isolate switch as problem.



Cheers!

[UnholyRiffs]

Diagnostic suggestion:

1) Cut leads from switch. Leave open and test pedal.

2) Then twist or clip together leads so they are hardwired, then test pedal.

Will help to isolate switch as problem.



Cheers!

Thank you for this helpful tip, will definitely try this.

[GGBB]

That was the 560k I replaced with the 390k.

I thought you knew the RAT circuit so well (now I am playing with you ).

That should be a 560R not 560k. So if it is now 390k you would have almost no gain when the 47R is clipped. Could explain what's going on. But doesn't explain how the SPDT worked - unless you left out that you had the original 560R in when you tried the SPDT.

Shame on me for not spotting that earlier! Or is it a 390R and the picture colors are misleading?

Side note - changing the 560R to 390R is probably not a good thing to do if more bass is your goal (the usual reason for the Ruetz mod). It raises gain for lower frequencies, yes, but also raises high pass cutoff frequency, so you don't end up with more deep bass. Change the 590R to 270R and the 4.7uF to 10uF, then get rid of the Ruetz mod, and you'll have a nice bass boost at lower gains without losing the RAT character. Or on a switch: https://marcuseffects.wordpress.com/2016/06/20/proco-rat-bass-mod/.

More:



(I know a little about the RAT circuit too )

[UnholyRiffs]

Haha yes 560r not k, it's been an extremely long week with no sleep.

So with 2 resistors the switch works great, the reason for the Ruetz mod was not mainly for more bass but more of an OD type distortion, our bassist wanted it it on a footswitch instead of a toggle.

Here's the build. (sorry for the spaghetti, this is the 3rd pedal I've put together from scratch and tried the winding thing...which didn't turn out well, going to redo it and run more wire under the board.)

[ig]https://image.ibb.co/n2iF6Q/image1_2.jpg[/img]

So like I said, the footswitch works with 2 resistors, but when you remove one it kills the signal. Without it attached it's just like a normal Rat with the 47r cut.

[UnholyRiffs]

multiple post, delete

[UnholyRiffs]

Side note - changing the 560R to 390R is probably not a good thing to do if more bass is your goal (the usual reason for the Ruetz mod). It raises gain for lower frequencies, yes, but also raises high pass cutoff frequency, so you don't end up with more deep bass. Change the 590R to 270R and the 4.7uF to 10uF, then get rid of the Ruetz mod, and you'll have a nice bass boost at lower gains without losing the RAT character. Or on a switch: https://marcuseffects.wordpress.com/2016/06/20/proco-rat-bass-mod/.

More:



(I know a little about the RAT circuit too )

Oh I'm sure you do, I was just getting really frustrated with this footswitch. Honestly you probably know more than me, I'm just a hack.

Thanks for that tip, I'll try that as well for some fun.


*edit* Yup I'll be damned that's a 390k instead of the 330ohm I ment. Don't build pedals on codeine and antibiotics. Sonofabitch...

[thermionix]

Oh, so, solved then?  Sorry I didn't notice that 390K before.  So how did that work with the toggle switch?  Or did you change the resistor and switch at the same time?

[UnholyRiffs]

I had the 560 on a pot and the 47 on the switch, decided I liked it around the 300 mark and in my drugged daze I grabbed the 360k instead of the 330. I've been on a bunch of antibiotics, steroids and codeine for a massive sinus and ear infection. Time to correct it when I get home.

[GGBB]

I had the 560 on a pot and the 47 on the switch, decided I liked it around the 300 mark and in my drugged daze I grabbed the 360k instead of the 330. I've been on a bunch of antibiotics, steroids and codeine for a massive sinus and ear infection. Time to correct it when I get home.

I get sinus infections too. I can't think straight when they happen - even without drugs.

[UnholyRiffs]

I had the 560 on a pot and the 47 on the switch, decided I liked it around the 300 mark and in my drugged daze I grabbed the 360k instead of the 330. I've been on a bunch of antibiotics, steroids and codeine for a massive sinus and ear infection. Time to correct it when I get home.

I get sinus infections too. I can't think straight when they happen - even without drugs.

Thank you again for your help, once I swapped the 360k for a 330 ohm the footswitch worked as it should in the beginning. I'm out of 10uf caps so I'll order some 270ohm with a few of those.

[duck_arse]

excellent! well, not the drugs and the illness, but the solution-ing-ness.

and this -

......
That was the 560r I replaced with the 390k. *edit* (like an idiot as it should have been a 330ohm)

- was what I was driving towards. none of the circuits I have show a 390k, and without the exact circuit/board, I/we can't point and say "that resistor - black 4th band or orange?" like.