Where do i start?

[GibsonGM]

I recommend you start with a basic transistor booster, Aron's beginner project here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?board=6.0

You can do it on breadboard, and if you want to, move it to perf to make it permanent.

I suggest this simple one to start up so you can get going, get some satisfaction without too much frustration, which might knock down your enthusiasm.  Just a few parts that you can get from Smallbear (make sure to get extras, like 10 transistors, 5 of each capacitor, etc!  You'll use 'em!).

You'll want to learn about the 1/4" jacks used with guitar circuits, and wire up a couple to use with the breadboard.  And make some "jumpers" with alligator clips and wire to connect batteries and things.   The small project will allow you to make these things as you go.

THEN I'd do a silicon fuzz!   

[EBK]

Thank you. Will start with this first ! What can you suggest me to start first? I dont have fuzz pedal on my board What you think?

Why not start with this? Since you need a small breadboard anyway:
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/breadboarding-the-fuzz-face/

[Sinister]

Thank you. Will start with this first ! What can you suggest me to start first? I dont have fuzz pedal on my board What you think?

Why not start with this? Since you need a small breadboard anyway:
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/breadboarding-the-fuzz-face/

What you can suggest for me to order more like GibsonGM told me ( capasitors diodes etc ) dont know anything about it and dont want to make mistakes.something that i fan use in the future to upgrade stuffs. Im in France so would Love to save for shipping....thnx !

[EBK]

Thank you. Will start with this first ! What can you suggest me to start first? I dont have fuzz pedal on my board What you think?

Why not start with this? Since you need a small breadboard anyway:
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/breadboarding-the-fuzz-face/

What you can suggest for me to order more like GibsonGM told me ( capasitors diodes etc ) dont know anything about it and dont want to make mistakes.something that i fan use in the future to upgrade stuffs. Im in France so would Love to save for shipping....thnx !

That can be tricky....
Since you've never built anything like this before, I'd still suggest a kit to start with, just to make sure it is something you would enjoy doing again and again.  Once you are talking about stocking up on components so that you can build just about anything, you are potentially talking about a bunch of money because, well, different circuits will need different parts. I'm very hesitant to give you expensive advice before you've even practiced soldering.....  Perhaps someone else here is also from France, and they can help you with more local suppliers.

I suppose you could order from mouser.fr, but you may become overwhelmed quickly by having to choose among thousands of options (as I suggested earlier).

Maybe someone else can walk you through the joys and risks of purchasing stuff through Tayda to save money another way....

Ok, I will offer one tiny bit of component advice: Buy an assortment of 1/4 watt, 1% tolerance, metal film resistors. 

[potul]

Just my 2 cents here...

A good candidate for a first effect would be a fuzz or booster. They are usually simle enough and they are useful... so building something that you can use afterwards is very rewarding (My first "serious" effect was a rangemaster, but it was a pain to find a suitable transistor)

If you are not experienced in components, how to select and buy them I would start with a kit. You will save a lot of headaches and missing components. Another suggestion is try to avoid "generic" electronics stores (like mouser, etc...)  until you are familiar with what you buy. The amount of options to choose can be really discouraging.
As  you are in Europe, I would recommend Banzaimusic or Musikding to buy componetns. Musikding has a nice selection of kits, some of them quite simple and suitable for a beginner:

Boosters:
https://www.musikding.de/Booster_1

Fuzz:
https://www.musikding.de/Fuzz_4

If you order from here, take into account that by default they don't include enclosure, you will need to add it when placing the order (as an option to the kit). You can even ask for already pre-drilled enclosures if you don't feel comfortable with drilling.

Don't be too ambitious... there are chances that the first build will be suboptimal,.. so better pick a simple (and cheap) one.

Regards,

Mat

[feddozz]

Hi I am in France too. Been here for 8 months. I order from tayda electronics. They are in thailand but they are cheap. you could order from www.bitsbox.co.uk Just check their postage. should not be too expensive.

I would suggest you build an LPB1. and I would also add some diodes to your order to get some distortion. All on breadboard. I'll give you more info later, I am on my phone right now.

Where are you based in France?

[Sinister]

Hi I am in France too. Been here for 8 months. I order from tayda electronics. They are in thailand but they are cheap. you could order from www.bitsbox.co.uk Just check their postage. should not be too expensive.

I would suggest you build an LPB1. and I would also add some diodes to your order to get some distortion. All on breadboard. I'll give you more info later, I am on my phone right now.

Where are you based in France?

Hello there! Glad found someone in France in this group. I'm from Paris what about you? Can you pls tell me what to get coz I have no idea what diodes or capacitors are good? I'm new to this and would like to save shipping if I order all at once. Too bad there's no French stores for all of this stuffs. Thanks bro!

[feddozz]

Hi



I am in the LYON area. I am not saying there are no French shops, I just do not know them. After all, I came to France only in September 2016. If you find a French online shop which is cheap let me know!!



I would buy the parts for both the LPB1 and the Bass Fuzz. Together (the boards) they will probably cost you less than the postage anyway. I'll give you some info on the bazz fuss.



The Bazz Fuss is a simple fuzz that need ONLY 5 components!! There are tons of info on the web on the bazz fuss. For example here: http://tonereport.com/blogs/do-it-yourself/your-first-diy-pedal-project-were-building-a-bazz-fuss





I suggest you buy a breadboard and try everything on breadboard first. The breadboard allows you to connect the components easily and non permanently. That means you can insert and remove a component quicker than I wrote it.



Plenty of choices: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=solder-less



I would suggest this one because it has the power and ground rail, very useful. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/400-point-solder-less-plug-in-breadboard-clear.html





Do not go ahead and try any foot switches! Although is what you finally want, do not try to go for an enclosure until your circuit works correctly. Breadboard first, Make your board after; Prove it works and only then move onto more complicated stuff.



Below a few info from the site above with added info. I know it may look difficult but TAYDA has a good search tool (top right) and on the left, the menus components are well organized.

For the circuit board, you're going to need the following parts:

-          Resistor: 1/4 watt, metal film 10k Ohm. Look in the menus on the left. Resistors, ¼ W metal films resistors and pick the 10K ohm. Beware the difference between 10Ohm and 10K Ohm. You want 10K Ohm. This: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-metal-film-resistors/10-x-resistor-10k-ohm-1-4w-1-metal-film-pkg-of-10.html
-          Capacitors: 63-volt film capacitors, 470nF (also called 0.47uF) and 100nF (0.1uF). Capacitors (or caps) are a bit trickier, but don't get scared. Below are valuable options.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-47uf-100v-5-mylar-film-capacitors.html

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-47uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

Look for the 100nF as well.



-          Transistors: MPSA13 (a black silicon type known for very high gain). Put the "MPSA13" in the search box. This is a high gain. You can also try 2N5088, 2N3904. Look at the prices, they are very low. You may as well buy them all and see what you like best.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/mpsa13-darlington-transistor-npn.html

-          Diode:
BAT41 (for the curious, this is a "Shottkey" type, renowned for its low clipping threshold). Use the search box. You can also try the 1N4148

-          Potentiometer: 100kA (The "A" is shorthand for logarithmic taper)
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/logarithmic/100k-ohm-logarithmic-taper-potentiometer-with-solder-lugs.html

-          Miscellaneous:
-          1x stripboard (sometimes sold under the brand name "Veroboard") cut and prepared according to the diagram http://www.taydaelectronics.com/small-stripboard-94x53mm-copper.html
-          2x 3x1 sockets, optional (these are sold in strips as SIP sockets, and you cut them to fit. These make for easy interchangeability between parts if you don't like the configuration I've specified. Because the circuit has so few parts, even the slightest parts changes yield big results.) This is used when you will solder your circuit board, it is like breadboard bits on your board.
-          2 x stereo sockets: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-stereo-chassis-socket-jack-4-terminals.html You will need to look on google how to connect these to your board


-          9V 9-Volt Battery Clip / Connector Snap if you want to power your board with a battery http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/battery-connectors-holders/9v-9-volt-battery-clip-connector.html or http://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch-external.html if you have a 9V power supply unit.


All the rest is optional, at least for the moment. Enclosure, knobs http://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/knobs-8688.html ,



Here are the schematic and layout, first two images. On the layout you can see where the two caps go.



http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html



You should also google for the way a breadoboard works.



There are loads of info in this post but is not all. I hope I did not make any mistakes. I'd be glad if other members could verify some of the info or suggestions.



Hope this helps

[duck_arse]

that's some nice work there, feddozz.

[bloxstompboxes]

that's some nice work there, feddozz.

Agreed, lots of good info for a noobie to look at and try out.

[Kipper4]

Mps13 is a Darlington

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[Kipper4]

Mpsa13 is a Darlington

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[thermionix]

Doubletapatalk?

[bluebunny]

BTW, there's a 15% discount coupon at Tayda (expires on the 5th) if you want to take advantage and stock up.  There's a sticky thread in the "Members Only" sub-forum, since they come up fairly frequently.  This month's code is "APPLE".

[feddozz]

BTW, there's a 15% discount coupon ....This month's code is "APPLE".

Of course!! I meant to mention it but finally I forgot. I understand that stocking up is going to be a bit difficult for the op which is still getting his head around things.
Anyway, sinister don't get too influenced by the discount they come up fairly regularly. in fact all my orders went through with a discount.  You just need a bit of patience.

[Sinister]

Hi



I am in the LYON area. I am not saying there are no French shops, I just do not know them. After all, I came to France only in September 2016. If you find a French online shop which is cheap let me know!!

Wow thank you so much for all this !



I would buy the parts for both the LPB1 and the Bass Fuzz. Together (the boards) they will probably cost you less than the postage anyway. I'll give you some info on the bazz fuss.



The Bazz Fuss is a simple fuzz that need ONLY 5 components!! There are tons of info on the web on the bazz fuss. For example here: http://tonereport.com/blogs/do-it-yourself/your-first-diy-pedal-project-were-building-a-bazz-fuss





I suggest you buy a breadboard and try everything on breadboard first. The breadboard allows you to connect the components easily and non permanently. That means you can insert and remove a component quicker than I wrote it.



Plenty of choices: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=solder-less



I would suggest this one because it has the power and ground rail, very useful. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/400-point-solder-less-plug-in-breadboard-clear.html





Do not go ahead and try any foot switches! Although is what you finally want, do not try to go for an enclosure until your circuit works correctly. Breadboard first, Make your board after; Prove it works and only then move onto more complicated stuff.



Below a few info from the site above with added info. I know it may look difficult but TAYDA has a good search tool (top right) and on the left, the menus components are well organized.

For the circuit board, you're going to need the following parts:

-          Resistor: 1/4 watt, metal film 10k Ohm. Look in the menus on the left. Resistors, ¼ W metal films resistors and pick the 10K ohm. Beware the difference between 10Ohm and 10K Ohm. You want 10K Ohm. This: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-metal-film-resistors/10-x-resistor-10k-ohm-1-4w-1-metal-film-pkg-of-10.html
-          Capacitors: 63-volt film capacitors, 470nF (also called 0.47uF) and 100nF (0.1uF). Capacitors (or caps) are a bit trickier, but don't get scared. Below are valuable options.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-47uf-100v-5-mylar-film-capacitors.html

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-47uf-100v-5-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

Look for the 100nF as well.



-          Transistors: MPSA13 (a black silicon type known for very high gain). Put the "MPSA13" in the search box. This is a high gain. You can also try 2N5088, 2N3904. Look at the prices, they are very low. You may as well buy them all and see what you like best.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/mpsa13-darlington-transistor-npn.html

-          Diode:
BAT41 (for the curious, this is a "Shottkey" type, renowned for its low clipping threshold). Use the search box. You can also try the 1N4148

-          Potentiometer: 100kA (The "A" is shorthand for logarithmic taper)
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/rotary-potentiometer/logarithmic/100k-ohm-logarithmic-taper-potentiometer-with-solder-lugs.html

-          Miscellaneous:
-          1x stripboard (sometimes sold under the brand name "Veroboard") cut and prepared according to the diagram http://www.taydaelectronics.com/small-stripboard-94x53mm-copper.html
-          2x 3x1 sockets, optional (these are sold in strips as SIP sockets, and you cut them to fit. These make for easy interchangeability between parts if you don't like the configuration I've specified. Because the circuit has so few parts, even the slightest parts changes yield big results.) This is used when you will solder your circuit board, it is like breadboard bits on your board.
-          2 x stereo sockets: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-stereo-chassis-socket-jack-4-terminals.html You will need to look on google how to connect these to your board


-          9V 9-Volt Battery Clip / Connector Snap if you want to power your board with a battery http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/battery-connectors-holders/9v-9-volt-battery-clip-connector.html or http://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch-external.html if you have a 9V power supply unit.


All the rest is optional, at least for the moment. Enclosure, knobs http://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/knobs-8688.html ,



Here are the schematic and layout, first two images. On the layout you can see where the two caps go.



http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html



You should also google for the way a breadoboard works.



There are loads of info in this post but is not all. I hope I did not make any mistakes. I'd be glad if other members could verify some of the info or suggestions.



Hope this helps

[Sinister]

Don't know what to say or how to thank you guys.
so glad there are guys like you who's there willingly helping rookies like me.