3 foot switchs on a 1590xx enclosure

[ElectricDruid]

I was expecting that the minimum distance needs to be 2.5" (63-65mm).
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=84939.0

Fair enough. I guess at that you've got 5 inches between the outside switches, and that's enough to stamp the middle one wearing welly boots. (Welly boots are handy for those gigs in a swamp, or festivals in the UK)

Do you think you'll whack your LED through the enclosure in time, though? I know they're not so visible behind the switch rather than in front of it, but maybe they don't get so much abuse back there? Just a thought.

T.

[navin]

I was expecting that the minimum distance needs to be 2.5" (63-65mm).
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=84939.0

Fair enough. I guess at that you've got 5 inches between the outside switches, and that's enough to stamp the middle one wearing welly boots. (Welly boots are handy for those gigs in a swamp, or festivals in the UK)

Do you think you'll whack your LED through the enclosure in time, though? I know they're not so visible behind the switch rather than in front of it, but maybe they don't get so much abuse back there? Just a thought.

The LEDs will be inside the box and only the light will be seen from the hole so they should be safe.

Which of the graphics did you like best?

[ElectricDruid]

Which of the graphics did you like best?

Personally, the first or the last.

T.

[Cozybuilder]

Which of the graphics did you like best?

The artwork itself is fine. However, place the knobs you intend to use on the pedal, and I think you'll find a lot of what makes the graphics so special on the 1st, 2nd, and 4th are obscured, and it'll lose the point, unless you use clear knobs, in which case someone will kind of get it. The third one is the only one which will keep its integrity. The other problem is the washer and nut will obscure the lettering.

[duck_arse]

I like the purple, but I'd suggest shoving/shifting/scaling it a little so's more of the joker's face appears in the larger space between vol/sust/fat//bright/tone. also, why the lettering is so serious, austere and white? why not make the legends in the same font as the why so (and purple/magenta)?

[navin]

Personally, the first or the last.

Thanks Electric Druid, duck_arse, Cozy Builder, et. al,

I don't have the knobs yet, they are on order. I also think that the knobs may obscure the face in the images but this pedal is for my son (who is a big Joker fan) so I am debating if I can use one of the ones with the face.

I can change the lettering to red and/or yellow as well but initially I wanted to make the letters visible so made them white. I will try and re-position and scale it to see if I can fit the Joker's face so it is bordered by the Vol/Sustain and Tone/Fat-Bright knobs. But I think that if I do that the "Why so Serious" will get obscured by the lower knobs (Scoop, Voice, Clip).


I also like this one as I think with the larger face for the Joker it may be less obscured when the knobs are fitted.


Just made some mods to the Purple version. Is this better?


BTW I found that the link to my scale drawing was broken so I am reposting it here in case anyone needs it.


Thanks everyone.

[ElectricDruid]

Just made some mods to the Purple version. Is this better?

Yes! Cool!

T.

[deadastronaut]

if you download the pedal vector pack,

you'll  have all your pots/knobs/ switches all to scale...handy for planning.

looking cool as is tough...just my 2p.

[navin]

if you download the pedal vector pack,

you'll  have all your pots/knobs/ switches all to scale...handy for planning.

looking cool as is tough...just my 2p.

I did download the Pedal Vector Pack. It came as a PDF file so I was unable to extract the knobs and jacks I needed. Is there another option.

I made the initial sketch in Google Layout (I got a 30 day trial). Now I use GIMP to add the graphics. When I tried to import the EPS version of the Pedal Vector Pack file into GIMP it says it cannot "interpret" the file.

Edit: Using Ghost Script I was able to open the EPS file in GIMP but how does one take the images from the EPS file and used them in the original graphics?

[GGBB]

Use Inkscape.

[deadastronaut]

as gord said, use inkscape its free..and very good.


you have to ''ungroup'' the images in the vector pack to use them in your project.

ungroup, then regroup that object, copy, paste into new project...

[navin]

as gord said, use inkscape its free..and very good.

Thanks. Let me download it and see. I am travelling Thursday and Friday. So maybe Saturday.

I guess I will have to start all over again in Inkscape. Right?

[deadastronaut]

you can use your art, if your box/art is to scale etc...

but you'll be able to move pots/knobs/switches about...

to get a real idea of how it will look/fit.

[GGBB]

I guess I will have to start all over again in Inkscape. Right?

You can import just about any kind of image file into Inkscape - no need to start from scratch unless you want everything vector based so it is scalable.

[MrStab]

FWIw: the X-wing DPDTs without the bottom nut can be made tall enough to comfortably dwarf switches that are mounted lower. there are a few manufacturers but IME they've all been a tad taller. Smallbear also stocks a 3PDT with an intentionally-longer bushing, if you don't fancy making a Millennium Bypass to compensate for the lack of poles.

not using the bottom nut may not be ideal, but i haven't had any complaints yet in the couple of jobs where i've been asked to do or have recommended this. i didn't read the whole thread because i'm lazy, hopefully this fits the context a tiny bit!

[navin]

you can use your art, if your box/art is to scale etc...
but you'll be able to move pots/knobs/switches about...
to get a real idea of how it will look/fit.

I made my original sketch in Google Layout/Sketchup then exported the same to JPG and imported the sketch (with the knobs and foot switches) into GIMP. In GIMP I added the Image as a layer mask. My Google Layout/Sketchup trial period has expired so I cannot edit the sketches I have made anymore.

Anyway I will download Inkscape and try and import the GIMP .xcf files. Lets hope that works.

Mr.Stab. Yes! exactly. My center foot switch will be a good 3-4mm higher than the 2 foot switches on the side. That should make it easier to hit without hitting the side switches.

[Cozybuilder]

Have you tried printing this on paper and do a trial fit with knobs and switch washers? Everything here so far is suggestions (good ones) for working on the screen. Your real pallet area for the artwork is between the knob banks and bottom of the switches.

[navin]

Have you tried printing this on paper and do a trial fit with knobs and switch washers?

Yes, that's the first thing I did even before I did the artwork in GIMP. I wanted to be sure that the holes all lined up right.

I have not done a trial fit but I printed the Google Sketch up drawing and later the GIMP artwork to see if all the holes lined up.

[navin]

You can import just about any kind of image file into Inkscape - no need to start from scratch unless you want everything vector based so it is scalable.

I am on Windows 64.

How can I import a GIMP (.xcf) file into Inkscape so that the layers are available to edit?

Is there a format I need to export to from GIMP so Inkscape can import with all the layers?

I can import a jpg or png file into inkscape but I cant edit each layer.

I can't even open an EPS file in Inkscape.

I can import an EPS file into GIMP but cannot "Ungroup" all the parts. So basically I am stuck.

Why do we need Inkscape if it can't ungroup and EPS file? This is frustrating.

I might as well just print the graphics as I have time and let the pots and switches fall where they may.

[deadastronaut]

hi navin, ive never used GIMP.

but it seems you can export to SVG from gimp to inkscape. and have layers too.

https://askubuntu.com/questions/301540/export-image-as-svg-in-gimp