Rotary switch shaft threaded bushing too short.

[Eddododo]

I know its not a stompbox problem, but you guys are so handy.
As far as I can tell, the available rotary switch for my needs (Thru guitar 3 pole 4 position ) is an alpha model-
here are two links
Mouser
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SR2511F-0304-19R0B-E9-S-W-159/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNbjZ2WlReYnXCw5Ewy7NZRxCcM7hk7ds%3d
Tayda
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/rotary-switch-3-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2511-2684.html

They seem different but are very close in spec- (the shaft length is different but the threaded bushing is not)

The problem is that the threaded bushing of the shaft is just too short

SO
I see three choices
1) Some sort of threaded sleeve bushing thing
2) Get the TINY amount of threading that catches and loctite it
3) route the bass- not gonna happen

so for option one, something like pictured, can anyone point me in the right direction?


I'm not sure what to call them to begin searching or anything

[anotherjim]

I feel your frustration. Alpha usually make each type switch with a range of bush and shaft lengths, but each supplier only seems to stock one of those options.

I'm sure I've owned instruments where the toggle selector had just that kind of top bush nut you're after. In the hope that threads might match, I looked to see if there are any of those available. I found a Switchcraft toggle on Stewmac that has that nut, but can't see them sold separately, nor do I know the thread type.
http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Switches/Switchcraft_Right-angle_Toggle_Switch.html

Maybe Steve at Smallbear can help, he has a 6way that looks like long thread.
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/open-frame-2p6t/
If you ask, He may be able to point your in the right direction.

Is it an EB3 type control you want?

[Eddododo]

Admittedly I'm not familiar with the EB3, but I'm doing series-parallel-single-single. That switch at small bear is the same line as what I got- in this confusing frustrating task I've become pretty adept at reading the model coding- the rub is that, as far as I can tell from all the spec sheets, the 'E' bushing length at 9mm is the longest for the alphas. I should probably check with him, as cross eyed as I went finding the switch I needed I'd love the input from someone with the insight

[Eddododo]

Oh I'm sleepy, I didn't quite process the link you posted. that's certainly something I'm going to look at, I don't even mind buying a switch if I can make the threads line up, thanks for that

[anotherjim]

EB3 had a series inductor from the neck pup on the 4th position. I think the modern Epiphone EB3 only has 3way? Control routing in SG style bodies is prety deep, so those switches threads may still be short for you.

For pickup selection, I think you may need "shorting" AKA Make-before-break switch, else you'll get clicks if the output is momentarily lost between switch positions.

[smallbearelec]

Maybe Steve at Smallbear can help

I regret: I am not big on guitar parts; it is really a market of its own. I would suggest looking at one of the other specialty shops, like guitarelectronics.com, Seymour Duncan, Stew-Mac, etc.

[anotherjim]

Thanks for chipping in Steve. One of your links finds these...
http://guitarelectronics.com/parts-hardware/small-guitar-bass-parts/
At the bottom. 2 sizes. One that fits Switchcraft (non-metric?) and one that don't (metric?). Cheap enough to try either?

Stewmac only has the Switchcraft nuts, and says they are 15/32-32 thread for a 1/2" hole.
Their metric toggle switches are M12 x 1.0 threads for 1/2" hole.

Bad news, I see the Alpha rotary has M9 x 0.75 thread. Unlikely to mate with those nuts.

[davent]

Total stab in the dark for something like your photo. Female threaded shoulder, shoulder bushing...

http://www.accuratescrew.com/bushings-3-8-screw-size.html

dave

[davent]

Would it be possible to fill the hole, redrill and tap the new hole for the bushing thread. (I'm not sure what you're dealing with as far as where you need to mount the switch.)
dave

[amptramp]

You could glue a thin piece of sheet metal to the inside of the case and drill a clearance hole for the nut in the aluminum enclosure.  Then you only need thickness for the sheet metal and enough clearance for a nutdriver in the enclosure.

[anotherjim]

Actually it looks like the switch is going in the wood of the guitar control cavity, not on a plate. May be replacing a 3way toggle selector. But that gives me an alternative idea.

Cut a thin sheet of metal the shape of the cavity. Make clearance holes for all of the controls. Fit the switch to the plate with it's existing fixing top nut (and do use the anti-turn tab if it has one). Fit the existing controls into their holes but don't fit their nuts (or just fit them loosely for now) . Complete the switch wiring as far as possible. Drop the plate into the cavity and fit the existing control nuts as normal. Complete the wiring. Fit knobs.
Should be a completely reversible procedure. Plate clamped by the other controls should give the rotary switch a firm mounting.

[Eddododo]

I love it. His post sent me in a similar but less well thought through direction. Hmmmmmmm