Fuzz Face Kit trouble

[rocknmysleep]

I'm trying my best to follow the schematic. Is the emitter on the AC128 the pin closest to the flanged edge?

[pinkjimiphoton]

could be, depending on who made it. but usually, yes

[rocknmysleep]

Does it look like EC1 is backwards?

https://ibb.co/isPnga

[pinkjimiphoton]

nope, ya want the + toward the highest voltage potential. in this case, the guitar would likely be a lower voltage than the base connection, so you turn the + towards the transistor.  with a reversed polarity you'd do the opposite.

in this case its being used as an input cap, as well as a blocking cap. a cap is an open door to ac, and a closed one to dc. so it lets the a/c thru (your guitar signal) but blocks the dc from the powered part of the circuit

[thermionix]

AC128s?  Positive ground?

[pinkjimiphoton]

or maybe i need more coffee lol

honestly, i avoid pnp circuits like the plague. i hate having to deal with batteries and special power supplies, or having to add a charge pump to power 'em. i'm an npn guy thru and thru so i may well have f'd this up lol...mah bad. look at a pnp fuzzface schematic, that should tell ya what's right.

[rocknmysleep]

 I'm really struggling with what each hole is on SW1 on the board.

[rocknmysleep]

Any idea what the board input and output is?

[pinkjimiphoton]

the board is laid out for a low pro "small" dpdt stompswitch, and has been adapted to use a modern 3pdt. the guys selling it probably
don't even know that. the switch should mount from the opposite side of the board from the components and be soldered in. add in the two leds the same way, and when off you can have one led lit, and on the other one lit. but that ain't what you need to know to get this working at this point.
first, browse back in this thread and print a copy of the fuzzface schematic posted.

the switch is marked for "pin 1" by the cut corner indicated on the board. but since you're gonna use a modern 3pdt bypass, you don't even have to worry about it.
all you need to do is lay your switch on its side and wire it 123456 just like in this picture exactly: http://imgur.com/a/os1qE

you will need to just wire up 6 of the 9 pins. if ya lay the switch on its side, and ignore the third row, the exact way the pins line up needs to be wired to the corresponding hole. in this case, there is no polarity to worry about with the switch other than wiring it right.

the holes indicate rows. if looking at it from the bottom, you'll see three rows of three poles. if all the holes are pointing up or down, the three in a line on the outside edge can be 123, and on the middle 456. just look at it. take a break first if you need to. it will become obvious when ya stop trying so hard i think lol

anyways, you can wire it that way and then add an led with the unused third of the switch. or, just put an led in where it says "on"... the long leg of the led goes to +, the flat side goes to - . positive side is the anode, the - side the cathode. with regular diodes the band is always to the cathode.... its easier to just put the led(s) on the board,  but on the switch isn't bad, either.

here's a pic of where what hooks up where i made for ya. its confusing cuz the tip and sleeve connections between the two jacks look like they are opposite.
honestly, its pretty hard to see these pics



i can't tell for sure which output jack hole is which from the pics. it may be opposite of what i did in the graphic



http://imgur.com/a/os1qE

[rocknmysleep]

Still not working. But I totally had EC1 in backwards. 

[pinkjimiphoton]

do a search for "audio probe" and start at the input to the circuit and worl uyour way back to the output

[rocknmysleep]

Ok so I gave up on that PCB board and connected everything on some proto board as shown in the previous schematic. The only the i don't understand when looking at the schematic is what represents what is ground ,tip, and sleeve for the input. To be more specific, the symbol has three things that could possibly mean something. Is it the length of line, the direction the arrow is pointing, or is it on top or bottom? Hope that makes sense.

[Cozybuilder]

I was curious why your PCB was not working, so traced it based on the connections drawn in your earlier posting

https://ibb.co/c3Z4SF

Then looking at the connections drawn later

http://imgur.com/a/os1qE

The top holes marked "-" and "+" actually should go to the jack sleeves, both are at +9V potential. The battery connections are on the "In" and "Out" solder points.

The DPDT stomp switch is readily available, no need to substitute a 3PDT. This is a single sided board, mount the switch on the same side as the components.

Here is my tracing:

[pinkjimiphoton]

listen to russ, he knows his stuff!!

thanks russ. i just kinda looked at the thing real quick. seemed "off" but i didn't take the time to trace the footswitch pads.

they sent him the kit with a 3pdt instead of a dpdt, and intend  it to be wired off board. <smh>

i mean, why clone a board that you're not gonna use the functions built in on it? i won't get started.

my bad. rock on

[rocknmysleep]

I decided not to use the PCB since I couldn't follow it with the schematic. Like I said this really is my first time doing anything with electronics so it makes my head hurt.

[thermionix]

it makes my head hurt.

That's learning, and it's a good thing.  "No pain, no gain" and "feel the burn" are phrases that come to mind.  The fact that you ditched the PCB means that you will learn more/better.  You'll get there, and be happier in the end when it's working.  Fuzz Face is a good circuit to learn with.  There's plenty to understand, but no so complicated that it seems impossible.

[MaxPower]

Hang in there. Switches are a pain imo. When I got started  I tried to minimize the complexity. My on\off switch was connecting\disconnecting the battery or a simple on\off switch. Get the circuit working then worry about more complex wiring.

[rocknmysleep]

That's exactly what I'm doing. I didn't bother wiring the switch once I moved it to the protoboard.

[rocknmysleep]

Still looking for a answer to this question...The only the i don't understand when looking at the schematic is what represents what is ground ,tip, and sleeve for the input. To be more specific, the symbol has three things that could possibly mean something. Is it the length of line, the direction the arrow is pointing, or is it on top or bottom? Hope that makes sense.

[thermionix]

This schematic?



The tip is the part that connects to the 2.2uF input cap.  The ring is the part that connects to the + terminal of the battery.  The sleeve is the part that goes to ground.

The output jack is mono and only has tip and sleeve, even though it's drawn here to look more like ring and sleeve.  I guess it's understood that you can't have a ring without a tip.