Sans Amp switch not working

Started by guidoilieff, December 11, 2017, 03:12:06 AM

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guidoilieff

Hi, I made Tonepad's Sans Amp http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=112 and everything is ok exept the sw3 that is supposed to be the AMP selector. The california setting is ok, but the british and tweed won't work. There is audio coming through but very VERY little when those 2 modes are selected.


S3A0 - 4.5v        S3B0 - 4.5v
S3A3 - 0v           S3B3 - 4.5v
S3A2 - 0v           S3B2 - 4.5v
S3A1 - 0v           S3B1 - Nc


Audio seems to get to all pins in S3A when british and tweed are selected but don't make it to the S3B side (If that's how it works). I understand the switch selects in pairs from each side but I don't understand the signal path.

Could it be the 0.022 caps?

Thanks

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zzeh47m54frvrlj/IMG_3678.MOV?dl=0 Video












Slowpoke101

The slide switches that you used, are they DP3T types? If you are not sure have a look for any identification marking on the switch and see if the switch's specifications can be found.

The recommended switches can be sourced from Small Bear http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/dp3t-on-on-on/

The switches or the associated wiring is the most likely problem.
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duck_arse

as Slowpoke says - the switch. it is highly unlikely that the switch shorts in pairs-across as you think, more likely that the second lug from one end is common for that side, and the one lower and two upper [that side] are the three throws. your meter will out all. this is a common trip-up for slide switch users [ask how I know].
" I will say no more "

potul

Quote from: duck_arse on December 11, 2017, 08:16:34 AM
as Slowpoke says - the switch. it is highly unlikely that the switch shorts in pairs-across as you think, more likely that the second lug from one end is common for that side, and the one lower and two upper [that side] are the three throws. your meter will out all. this is a common trip-up for slide switch users [ask how I know].

I agree.... I have a switch like this one (or it looks like...), and it's not a regular DP3T... you need a meter and verify the switching. Probably you have the same issue with the rest of switches, but the effect is less dramatic.

guidoilieff

Quote from: Slowpoke101 on December 11, 2017, 04:09:27 AM
The slide switches that you used, are they DP3T types? If you are not sure have a look for any identification marking on the switch and see if the switch's specifications can be found.

The recommended switches can be sourced from Small Bear http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/dp3t-on-on-on/

The switches or the associated wiring is the most likely problem.

I bought them as a 2p3t "2 poles 3 positions, connection 1-2 / 2-3 / 3 - 4" I cant buy from smallbear or other sites because Argentina

guidoilieff

#5
Quote from: duck_arse on December 11, 2017, 08:16:34 AM
as Slowpoke says - the switch. it is highly unlikely that the switch shorts in pairs-across as you think, more likely that the second lug from one end is common for that side, and the one lower and two upper [that side] are the three throws. your meter will out all. this is a common trip-up for slide switch users [ask how I know].


So... How do you know? haha.


What would be the correct manner to test if this ones are the ok type?


I found the switches on the web but I don't know where my dealer got it from. http://www.calonsw.com/en/pshow2.asp?id=1210&KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=570&width=882


If they are ok what should I do?

guidoilieff

Quote from: potul on December 11, 2017, 08:19:09 AM
Quote from: duck_arse on December 11, 2017, 08:16:34 AM
as Slowpoke says - the switch. it is highly unlikely that the switch shorts in pairs-across as you think, more likely that the second lug from one end is common for that side, and the one lower and two upper [that side] are the three throws. your meter will out all. this is a common trip-up for slide switch users [ask how I know].

I agree.... I have a switch like this one (or it looks like...), and it's not a regular DP3T... you need a meter and verify the switching. Probably you have the same issue with the rest of switches, but the effect is less dramatic.

Should it go in pairs from each side?

anotherjim

Without those particular 3 way slide switches, you're left with rotary switches. 4P3W should be easy to get - but - panel area needed is much, much greater. But you could use the extra poles for indicator LED's  ;)

The intended switch has, on each half, a common pin (moving contact), then a gap followed by the 3 position contacts. Exactly like a 2pole 3way rotary switch would be except in straight line arrangement instead of circular.

The slide switches you have are the wrong kind, since they don't have a common contact pin. I'd like to think that there is a wiring hack that could make them work for this, but my brain isn't up to it today.

guidoilieff

#8
Quote from: anotherjim on December 11, 2017, 01:53:26 PM
Without those particular 3 way slide switches, you're left with rotary switches. 4P3W should be easy to get - but - panel area needed is much, much greater. But you could use the extra poles for indicator LED's  ;)

The intended switch has, on each half, a common pin (moving contact), then a gap followed by the 3 position contacts. Exactly like a 2pole 3way rotary switch would be except in straight line arrangement instead of circular.

The slide switches you have are the wrong kind, since they don't have a common contact pin. I'd like to think that there is a wiring hack that could make them work for this, but my brain isn't up to it today.

There are no results in the whole web for doing that. That would mean that 2 contacts on the sliding part would always be connected to 2 of the pins?

(I found this image after writing that) https://cdn.instructables.com/FMK/3QNQ/GVLRXV04/FMK3QNQGVLRXV04.MEDIUM.gif

anotherjim


Ah, that's it.
So the common is the first of the 3 pins by the gap. And that gap is due to the common contact having to be double width.
I still can't think of a way to directly use the switches you have.


duck_arse

^ that diagram exactly. except - your photo'd switches don't show the double space. can you confirm that they are, in fakt, three position switches, please? if you test them as per A.J.'s dia, do they come out right?

anotherjim - I think the switches shown are the correct type, if they are 3 position.
" I will say no more "

guidoilieff

Quote from: duck_arse on December 12, 2017, 08:30:50 AM
^ that diagram exactly. except - your photo'd switches don't show the double space. can you confirm that they are, in fakt, three position switches, please? if you test them as per A.J.'s dia, do they come out right?

anotherjim - I think the switches shown are the correct type, if they are 3 position.

I bought switches for fender mustangs, but in the webpage I bought it from where related to sans amps IC for some reason. That's why the confusion.

Now I need 6 fender mustangs to use those switches or throw em in the trash, idk.


Thanks everyone!

Slowpoke101

There are ways of wiring your switches so they will work in the Tonepad Sans Amp circuit but you will need a total of five switches.
S1 can be wired as a single switch but S2 and S3 will need two switches each. Total of five switches.
Do you have the space for five switches in your enclosure?

The easiest thing to do is to try to get suitable switches or small rotary switches as previously suggested.

If you are interested in the five switch method I will draw up a diagram for you to try out.
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guidoilieff

Quote from: Slowpoke101 on December 12, 2017, 04:15:40 PM
There are ways of wiring your switches so they will work in the Tonepad Sans Amp circuit but you will need a total of five switches.
S1 can be wired as a single switch but S2 and S3 will need two switches each. Total of five switches.
Do you have the space for five switches in your enclosure?

The easiest thing to do is to try to get suitable switches or small rotary switches as previously suggested.

If you are interested in the five switch method I will draw up a diagram for you to try out.

Yes, I'm very interested, i'll try it out. Thanks

Slowpoke101

#14
Hopefully this diagram will make sense. I could not get switch1 to work properly as a single switch so you are going to need all six of the switches that you have.
Good luck.




Just noticed a minor error. Updated the image. I really should proof read things before posting....

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guidoilieff

Quote from: Slowpoke101 on December 12, 2017, 08:09:28 PM
Hopefully this diagram will make sense. I could not get switch1 to work properly as a single switch so you are going to need all six of the switches that you have.
Good luck.




Just noticed a minor error. Updated the image. I really should proof read things before posting....

Makes perfect sense. Ill try it out. Thanks!

guidoilieff

Quote from: Slowpoke101 on December 12, 2017, 08:09:28 PM
Hopefully this diagram will make sense. I could not get switch1 to work properly as a single switch so you are going to need all six of the switches that you have.
Good luck.




Just noticed a minor error. Updated the image. I really should proof read things before posting....


I present you, for the first time, the most elaborate switching in a sans amp everrrr:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/nathanwind/5e7vC9

Sorry, I should have played something but my iphone 4 was at 3% battery...


Thanks again