Big Box Deluxe Memory Man not powering on

Started by savoir_faire, February 15, 2018, 06:55:24 PM

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savoir_faire

Excuse me if this isnt the proper place to post this. Ive been doing minor repairs to synths for a few months now (replacing tact switches, volume pots etc..) so im very new to all this. I purchased a 90's DMM (wall wart version) for cheap knowing that it powered on but didnt produce any sound. I opened it up to check if there was any unsoldered wires or fried parts etc. I noticed the 3005 chips were a little loose so i pushed them back into their sockets and powered it back on to do a quick check without closing it back up (Pretty stupid i know). In doing so i accidentaly touched the top left pin on the power switch and i heard a very faint kind of sparking noise and now the red Power LED doesnt light up anymore. No smoke or burnt smell. What are the odds that i fried the IC's?




thermionix

Does it have a fuse?

Forgive my DMM ignorance, you say "wall wart version" but it looks like a regular 2-conductor AC wire going in at that strain relief.

Plexi

I agree with thermionix question.

After all, I would try to jump/omit all the transformer, and feed the pedal directly (24v?) from another wall wart.

Idk why... buy I've always be afraid of that EHX's pedals with included transformer and not ground connection  :icon_rolleyes:
To you, buffered bypass sucks tone.
To me, it sucks my balls.

savoir_faire

Here's a picture of the 2 prong wall plug and the schematics i found online.






Scruffie

#4
By the looks of that PCB, it's a 70's model, not a reissue.

So first things first will be to see if you fried the transformer, there should be two wires going in to it from the power switch which carry the mains power (so be careful when playing around in there!) and then 3 wires coming out which feed to the circuit board which have the secondary voltage which will be somewhere in the 12-18V region per side. You need to test them with the AC setting of your meter.

The power LED is supplied by the transformers centre tap so it's quite possible it's the cause of your issue.

If that checks out fine set the meter to DC and check the readings on the 2N6111.

There's no earth connection on that plug so you should be damn sure the mains wires are in no way touching the enclosure before you touch anything.

thermionix

Nothing says "maybe" like a hand-drawn schematic.  There's no fuse depicted, so I would highly recommend adding one on the primary side.  500mA?  Better than nothing.  You can get inline fuse holders, or ones that mount to the chassis.

savoir_faire

Thanks for all the replies guys. So like scruffie suggested i tested the Transformer and was getting a ready of 14.5V which seems to be good. I also tested the resistor where the LED goes and it was reading its correct resistance. Would that mean that the LED is at fault here? Also you suggested checking the readings on the 2N6111. Is that still necessary and if so which pins would i be using to check? Thanks a lot guys im learning as i go here and realize i may be asking dumb questions but you have all been very helpful.

savoir_faire

Quote from: thermionix on February 16, 2018, 08:01:08 PM
Nothing says "maybe" like a hand-drawn schematic.  There's no fuse depicted, so I would highly recommend adding one on the primary side.  500mA?  Better than nothing.  You can get inline fuse holders, or ones that mount to the chassis.

Ill look into adding a fuse but first ill make sure i can get sound out of this thing..  :icon_cry:

Scruffie

Sure sounds like you just burnt out the LED then, that's good, relatively speaking :)

Now you need to take DC readings of all the chips in the circuit.