Bypass Q on the Ibanez EM5.

[digi2t]

Original schematic...



Looking at the simplified version...



I noticed that the bypass on the simplified version is located after the volume pot, whereas the original uses jfet switching before the volume pot.

Wouldn't it be more advantageous to switch before the pot, since then (it looks to me) you would retain volume control of the buffered signal when bypassed?

[duck_arse]

"simplified" is leaving that cap [C20?] flapping in the breeze when bypassed, original has it firmly tied to ground. the buffered signal goes thru that 47k to the output buffer, doesn't get any volume controlling anywhere/anytime.

[digi2t]

You know... that's a great point. I decided to throw in Mill 2 bypass, and I'll use the second set of poles on the switch to send the flapping cap to ground in bypass. What do you think?

[pinkjimiphoton]

dino, expect problems with this circuit, i'm not convinced its right. been debugging one for like two weeks. the actual circuit works great, the 3pdt project thats out there is simplified too and actually works. first time.
this is one of the nicer sounding ddl's i've ever tried.
the encoder is weird. if ya get the one suggested, there's 6 pins. going around it counterclockwise like a dual opamp, the 1,2,3,4 and common connections go like this

pin 1 is connection 1
pin 2 is common with pin 5
pin 3 is connection 3
pin 4 is connection 2
pin 6 is connection 4

imho, if you're gonna go for this, go for the full gospel business. works great, sounds killer and has way more options for control.

rock on, my brother!!

[digi2t]

Have no intentions of going for the super encoder jig bro. Going Full Monty minus the flip flop bypass. Don't see why I should go for the encoder get up when all the parts for the original setup are available no problemo.

[pinkjimiphoton]

righteous, bro. IF ya need ANY of the actually specc'd parts, let me know, i bought bags of everything when i was gonna build this, just to find none of it was necessary go figure. so i have all the various fets n q's and chips n stuff, if you need 'em say the word and i'm off to the post office!

the kit i ended up going with had everything in it, minus the flip flop switching. so i didn't need all the other crap.

[digi2t]

Well then.... the $64 question. On yours, in bypass, does the delay line part of the buffer input get cut loose, or does it get tied to ground?

I decided to send it to ground in bypass. That would simulate the level pot going to zero.

[pinkjimiphoton]

unknown, as its winging its way to steve hunter over in spain. the build doc didn't include a schematic. i wired it to short the board to ground on bypass too. works great imho. the other one i built on vero, and still can't get it to fire, but that was the "simplified" one.

[duck_arse]

You know... that's a great point. I decided to throw in Mill 2 bypass, and I'll use the second set of poles on the switch to send the flapping cap to ground in bypass. What do you think?

well, it's an odd idea. why wouldn't you just use one pole to switch the cap between the pot and ground, and the other pole to switch a led and clr between supply and ground? I'd reckon you hard wire the C20 to the pot wiper [now it's always ground referenced] and break/make the pot hot connection. if the pot hot cap is flapping, don't matter nuthin to nobody. and the other half of the switch for the led, sans mill.

what you say?

[edit :] C5 won't flap because it'll still be grounded thru VR2 - the my switch would go hard-to cw of VR1.