Crimpers, crimping, ribbon cables, headers...

[idy]

I've been using digital daughter boards with pins that connect to 16 pin ribbon cable. I've sampled a few molex header/pin things; I guess you would call them "connector systems." I am gathering from reading that:
*There are as many types of system as there are manufacturers. Male and Female parts that are designed for each other.
*The recommended crimping is different for each type, and that each manu has its very expensive official crimper.
*Using a generic crimper requires a bit of "process development." Seperate stripping tool, judging the amount of pressure, lining things up just right, etc.

What do you think? Are headers and sockets ever appropriate in a stomp box?

Further, I read that soldering a wire to a pin instead of crimping makes the stranded wire more vulnerable to damage from movement. The solder wicks up and the vulnerable part extends past the pin....?

[antiuser]

I don't see any issue with headers and sockets being used as long as the mountings are stable. A lot of the Ibanez "Tone Lok" pedals from the late 90s used it. The little Danelectro ones that came in plastic enclosures also.

Regarding crimping vs. soldering, I'm not sure the movement damage issue is much of a factor when talking about a pedal, since there shouldn't be that much movement anyway. I mean, I rebuilt a 1965 Volvo where all electrical connectors were crimped on and I'm sure that thing vibrated way more than any pedal ever will.

[Phoenix]

Further, I read that soldering a wire to a pin instead of crimping makes the stranded wire more vulnerable to damage from movement. The solder wicks up and the vulnerable part extends past the pin....?

Regarding crimping vs. soldering, I'm not sure the movement damage issue is much of a factor when talking about a pedal, since there shouldn't be that much movement anyway. I mean, I rebuilt a 1965 Volvo where all electrical connectors were crimped on and I'm sure that thing vibrated way more than any pedal ever will.

There seems to be a bit of a misconception here, properly applied crimped joints are actually much more robust than soldering, due to their inbuilt strain relief, and the absence of solder wicking which makes stranded wire prone to strain fracturing. Oh, and just a tip for anyone that doesn't know and something I often see done incorrectly, do NOT tin the stripped wire before crimping, as the solder is too soft for the cold welding that happens in a proper crimp, and solder also cold creeps over time, and the joint becomes loose. The crimp should be applied to bare copper or silver/tin plated wire. I'm not sure about pre-bonded wire (it's not something I use, so I've never looked into it), but I would think it should be avoided.

Anyway, I've found in my 10+ years of full time amp and effects repair that for most types of interconnects, a set of Engineer Inc PA-09, PA-20 and PA-21 will cover most everything you need, and is certainly the most economical option I've seen. You could buy several sets of the Engineer crimps for the price of a single "expensive official crimper", and other than needing to perform the bond crimp and strain relief crimp seperately (and compared to some specialty crimpers, also the stripping step), they function in exactly the same manner and just as well when properly applied.

[idy]

Thank you Phoenix.
And antiuser: your volvo experience verifies the rule: that for a vibration "proof" job, the crimped-not-soldered approach is time tested and true.