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Easy vibe

Started by Fede9526, October 04, 2018, 07:17:53 PM

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ElectricDruid

No, you could go straight to 100K. The gain at the moment is 1 + 47/100 = x1.5. If you change that 47K for 100K, you'll get 1+ 100/100 = x2. So it won't make a huge difference yet.

I would say that if you've got a big gain drop you might have another problem, and simply increasing gain somewhere else to cover up the symptoms isn't the best solution. But the output of this circuit isn't buffered and has a pretty big output impedance due to that 10K/10K passive mixer, so you might find you drop some level depending what you plug it into.

Fede9526

OK thanks.
For the moment I will try to replace the 47k, then I will let you know how it goes.
My DIY Factory: Colorsound Powerboost-Analogman Sunface BC108-Diamond Compressor-Triangle Muff-Civil War Muff-Green Russian Muff-RAT-Easy Vibe

Fede9526

I replaced the 47k with a 100k, and the pedal returns to not work, in fact the LEDs remain fixed, have no oscillation.
My DIY Factory: Colorsound Powerboost-Analogman Sunface BC108-Diamond Compressor-Triangle Muff-Civil War Muff-Green Russian Muff-RAT-Easy Vibe

ElectricDruid

Quote from: Fede9526 on October 20, 2018, 12:06:24 PM
I replaced the 47k with a 100k, and the pedal returns to not work, in fact the LEDs remain fixed, have no oscillation.

That's unlikely to be anything to do with changing the gain resistor. I think you've got another intermittent problem somewhere.

If the LEDs aren't doing anything, it sounds like the LFO is faulty.


Fede9526

I also changed the resistance from 10M (R2) with a 1M, to eliminate a problem of pop footswitch, do you think that could be the problem?
My DIY Factory: Colorsound Powerboost-Analogman Sunface BC108-Diamond Compressor-Triangle Muff-Civil War Muff-Green Russian Muff-RAT-Easy Vibe

ElectricDruid

Quote from: Fede9526 on October 21, 2018, 05:18:06 AM
I also changed the resistance from 10M (R2) with a 1M, to eliminate a problem of pop footswitch, do you think that could be the problem?

No. Not unless you damaged something else while you were doing it. Otherwise there's no way that resistor would stop the LFO.

Check the components and joints around IC1. That's the chip that deals with the LFO, so there's probably a bad joint or a short somewhere around there.

Kipper4

I'm pretty sure Hollis drawing input cap is 1uf whereas the vero layout says 1nf.
Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/

ElectricDruid

I see why you might read that as "1u", but I think it's a "1n". Either is going to be fine with that 10M input resistor anyway.

We're no closer to finding out why the LFO isn't running though.

Kipper4

Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/