Rant: I really don't like these power jacks (but I've ordered more anyway)

[EBK]

These things....


They're often intermittent when they work.

Sometimes the pin snaps off.

The plastic melts way too easily.

Even the ones from my favorite, highly reputable supplier are hit or miss, it seems.

But, I have a pedal that "needs" one, and I've broken the one that was in it.  I've ordered five more, hoping to succeed with at least two.

[thermionix]

I used that type in my little power distribution box, and they do have an odd fit.  Some are a bit tight, some pretty loose.  In pedals I use the switched type because I include a battery, the sprung switch contact seems to be beneficial.

[Max999]

Those are Lumberg 1614 09 power jacks. I always liked how they grip the plug. I have an older datasheet that rates them for 12v. The new one rates them for 24. Very odd

[BetterOffShred]

Yeah I like them I guess.  I like that they are tiny and you can really cram them into stuff that's pretty packed.  The fit can be annoying though. 

[Marcos - Munky]

I'm using those jacks now. They're tiny and have a good grip to the plug. I've got to break about 3 of them out of a pack with 20.

[duck_arse]

I like them but don't like them. they are good size, but then they go into "a space", and it's a bugger to try and tighten what is usually a really crappy nut. and what EBK said.

[deadastronaut]

i use them always, never had an issue..

[vigilante397]

i use them always, never had an issue..

Same here, I use them on everything and have never broken one in regular use.

[italianguy63]

I break an occasional one too... and the nut strips too easy...

One I get them in snug, I put some JB Weld on them just for insurance.

I have had the pins break off too.  I wish they were a bit better made too...

I like the metal ones, but you can't use them on a metal enclosure/negative center pin config.

MC

[EBK]

I like the metal ones, but you can't use them on a metal enclosure/negative center pin config.

I may eventually look into using metal jacks with insulating shoulder washers.

[italianguy63]

I like the metal ones, but you can't use them on a metal enclosure/negative center pin config.

I may eventually look into using metal jacks with insulating shoulder washers.

I would like to too... let me know if you figure it out.

[blackcorvo]

I solder stuff everyday at my job, and I've noticed that adding soldering flux to the pins, and wetting them with fresh solder before adding the wires (also wetted with solder), really helps to reduce melting plastic issues, as it makes soldering much quicker.

Also, keeping a small cup of rubbing alcohol and cotton balls handy nearby, you can wet the cotton on the alcohol and use that to cool down the joint you soldered more quickly. Some people use this cooling down technique to solder 18650 Lithium batteries together, as they don't react kindly to overheating.

BE CAREFUL THO! ALCOHOL IS INFLAMMABLE! KEEP YOUR IRON AND THE ALCOHOL FAR FROM EACH OTHER!

Doesn't mean I'm saying you're doing a bad job, far from it. There's many connectors being distributed that are made in very poor quality, to the point I'd be afraid to even use them at all! it's just a way to adapt to the currently available plugs, until some new/better option becomes available.

[davent]

I like the metal ones, but you can't use them on a metal enclosure/negative center pin config.

I may eventually look into using metal jacks with insulating shoulder washers.

I wonder it the jack flange is long enough to accommodate the thickness of two shoulder washers.

Small Bear used to have a tutorial on using the metal ones. essentially bore an oversized hole in the enclosure, fill the hole with Bondo then when set, smooth out and bore the hole for the metal jack.
dave

[Mark Hammer]

Sometimes I wonder if "the problem" of intermittent contact isn't an issue of the jack, but rather an issue of the plug, and variation in the actual diameter of 2.1mm tip-holes in different makes/batches of plugs.  I'm not trying to start an internet rumour; just suggesting that it takes two components to make for a nice snug fit and electrical continuity, and any blame may need to be spread around.

[EBK]

Sometimes I wonder if "the problem" of intermittent contact isn't an issue of the jack, but rather an issue of the plug, and variation in the actual diameter of 2.1mm tip-holes in different makes/batches of plugs.  I'm not trying to start an internet rumour; just suggesting that it takes two components to make for a nice snug fit and electrical continuity, and any blame may need to be spread around.

Well, my most recent intermittent jack failed a continuity test unless I applied moderate sideways pressure against the pin with my probe, so maybe I'll spread the blame later, once I have a non-faulty jack.   

[Mark Hammer]

I've had that same problem repeatedly.  Of course, measuring the diameter of the pin and the hole it fits into, to see which one is more off-spec is a little more than tricky.

Is the solution to buy both jacks and plugs from the same manufacturer?

[EBK]

Is the solution to buy both jacks and plugs from the same manufacturer?

Hmm....  Maybe.   Or buy only from manufacturers who supply a technical drawing of their parts (preferably with tolerances) so you can compare?  Should be possible through Mouser, in theory.

[bartimaeus]

I like a lot of stuff from Tayda, but their versions of these are even worse than the ones you can get from Smallbear. I've had Tayda ones just split in half out of the blue... the main problem I get with the Smallbear ones is the intermittent connection on some of them, which as others note seems to be a result of some plugs being not quite the right size for it. They almost always work perfectly with a one-spot, but not so often with other power supplies.

I really wish someone made a higher quality version.

[iainpunk]

Im a sucker for the old school "headphone jack" power connector, like the old ehx stuff. They are indestructible!
I supply all my customers with 2 '5-2.1mm power jack' to 'headphone jack' cables, which are cheap and replaceable if they break

I use heat shrink to isolate the metal bits from the box, but its quite a fumble to get the tube just right.
Protip: tighten the nut before you heat the tube

[Mark Hammer]

Eleven years ago, I tried to persuade Bill "Mr. Klon" Finnegan to use a 2.1mm plug/jack instead of a mini phone-jack, so that people could use their existing power bricks and wallwarts with the Klon Centaur.  Bill's resistance to that change was based on his belief that the connection of such jacks/plugs was less solid and secure than a phone-jack.  While I have no basis for knowing, it's not impossible or implausible that may have been predicated on his experiences similar to what is prompting complaints here.  In other words, he may have heard too many stories of DC power-plugs needing to be nudged a bit to make contact.

Long story short, in an effort to potentially "convert" him, I asked Steve Daniels if he knew of any brands or models that provided a more secure connection in the 2.1mm format.  Steve generously did some detective work and stumbled upon a locking 2.1mm plug and jack, made by Kobiconn.  The plug has two little "tongues" that stick out a wee bit from the base of the outside shaft.  The jack has two complementary dips that the little tongues align with and go into.  Insert the plug, give it a half turn to lock it in place, and that sucker won't come out for love, money, or a team of muscle-bound roadies pulling.  VERY secure.  The nice thing is that, as long as the jack is not of the wrong shaft-length format, the plugs and jacks are compatible with non-locking types.  That is, a "regular" 2.1mm plug will work fine into a locking jack, and a locking plug will work fine into a non-locking jack.

I've been looking for a Kobiconn, or similar, part number, but perhaps the best strategy is to simply look for whomever sells "locking DC power jacks".  These might be the ones:  https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/253/KC-300898-1177558.pdf  But they look like this.