I've designed a Filter Pedal for Bass

[FUZZZZzzzz]

I've build a few last week with ne567 and ka567. All from the layout above and they all work. Which 567 type did you use? Maybe yours is indeed broken. Let me know if theres something unclear and I will do my best to assist.

[rutabaga bob]

I've got LMC567CM's...which I think are CMOS.  Perhaps it got zapped.  I'm preparing to order some plain 567's to try out.  Thanks!

[snk]

I'm sure that serial BLUE LED instead of the 7806 will do the same work perfectly, giving a bright indicator light as a bonus.

How would you wire it, given that the led has 2 lugs, and the regulator 3 ?

[rankot]

In series from V+ to Vcc pin of the IC. It must have 3.0V voltage drop to work that way.

[snk]

Thank you, Rankot 

[snk]

Hello,
I've been suggested to put a booster in front of that effect (which I haven't built yet), so i made this little layout, trying to merge the original circuit with a JHS minibomb.
The good thing is that now you can dial in both the right input & output levels.

I think the "merging" is quite ok, but i am unsure about the fact that now some component are not mandatory (since it is "two in one")...
Does anyone think the layout is ok ?

[duck_arse]

most people here hate reading veroboard, so if you show your circuit for that board, it will help us all much to say correct or not.

[snk]

most people here hate reading veroboard, so if you show your circuit for that board, it will help us all much to say correct or not.

Sorry, Im' not sure i understand what you mean (The original layout is also a veroboard, not a schematic) ?
I just took the original layout, and tried to merge it with a booster layout, so i do not have a schematic.

[rankot]

You don't need 1M or 100k resistor, they are just put in parallel.

This shall be the correct schematic (using blue LED instead of LM78L06):

[snk]

Thank you, Rankot.

So, if i read your schematic correctly, I should remove the 1M resistor, and keep the 100K ?
Also, I see only 4 caps on your schematic, while the "dual" layout (gathering a booster + the filter) should have 7 : 3x100nF, 1x4.7nF and 3 electro : 1µF, 22µF, 100µF.
Should I then remove the 100nF cap (going to 567's pin#3), as well as the 22µF and 100µF electrolytics ?

[rankot]

If I have read this vero correctly, 100uF and 22uF are in parallel and used for power filtering, so you don't need 22uF cause 100uF will do the job.

You also don't need two of 100n coupling caps, one is quite sufficient, so yes, you can remove 100n and 1M in top part of a vero and set the green line to connect points I2 and E4.

[duck_arse]

most people here hate reading veroboard, so if you show your circuit for that board, it will help us all much to say correct or not.

Sorry, Im' not sure i understand what you mean (The original layout is also a veroboard, not a schematic) ?
I just took the original layout, and tried to merge it with a booster layout, so i do not have a schematic.

what you showed is a veroboard layout. and you've added something to the original circuit, so what I wanted was a new circuit diagram, containing what you've added and what it's been added to. the fet gate was bothering me, is all. [I'd say you should take that now spare cap and put it in the hot/CW lug of the gain pot, with the now spare 1M as a pulldown.]

[snk]

what I wanted was a new circuit diagram, containing what you've added and what it's been added to.

Ok. I took this (the original was a veroboard) :

And this (left circuit) :


And tried to merge them.

the fet gate was bothering me, is all. [I'd say you should take that now spare cap and put it in the hot/CW lug of the gain pot, with the now spare 1M as a pulldown.]

Thank you for the tip.
Is this to avoid crackles when turning the gain knob ?

If I have read this vero correctly, 100uF and 22uF are in parallel and used for power filtering, so you don't need 22uF cause 100uF will do the job.
You also don't need two of 100n coupling caps, one is quite sufficient, so yes, you can remove 100n and 1M in top part of a vero and set the green line to connect points I2 and E4.

Thank you, Rankot. I updated my layout (i moved a couple parts, in order to make it more compact), i hope it is correct.

[rankot]

Yes, I guess it's fine. I will try to breadboard this tomorrow.

[snk]

Thank you for your tips.
I will do, too, but i haven't received my 567 yet, so i won't be able to try it until a while.

By the way, i made an even more compact layout, with a 2PDT to switch between 3capacitor values for the filter (instead of 2 on the original design).
If you breadboard it, I would be curious to know your thoughts about different diodes and cap values...

[rankot]

I suggest you to switch places of diode and blue jumper, if you put diode like this, it will not be possible to mount trim pot.

Also, with this kind of DPDT and capacitor arangement, you will have two different capacitances: 1n1 and 1n5. Is that what you want?

[snk]

Also, with this kind of DPDT and capacitor arangement, you will have two different capacitances: 1n1 and 1n5. Is that what you want?

Doh ! You're right : i wired them in series, just as if it was resistors 
No, this is not what i want : i will come back to my initial setup (with a 1PDT, and without the 2.2nF cap).

[FUZZZZzzzz]

you could also try a rotary switch if you want to experiment. one for the diodes and leds and one for the different caps.

https://www.musikding.de/Rotary-switch-1P12T-sealed

gives you 12 options.. could be pretty crazy

[snk]

Hi, Fuzzzz.
I had thought about that (i have a couple rotatory switches like that). But i think i would rather experiment with various values on the veroboard, and keep the two i like the most

[snk]

I will not have time this week-end for building it, but I should try next week.
@Rankot, did you manage to breadboard it ?