Weller WES51 Issue- Please Help

[Kevaus]

Hi guys,

First of all, I'm new to this forum and I'm excited to be a part of the DIY Stompbox community 

I'm new to pedal building and just bought a new soldering machine. I had issues on day one with the solder not sticking to the tip. The tip also turned black and would melt the wire whenever I touchd the wire on the bottom part of the tip. I have only ever set the temp to the middle so I'm not sure why it would overheat.
I went back to the store to explain what happened and the guy at the store said not to use lead solder instead of lead free and if that didn't work to try a new tip. The lead solder didn't make a different but the new tip definitely did.
The solder would stick to the tip but the the pencil still overheats and turns brown. The tip is silver since I made sure to tin it before powering it down but the rest if it is brown. I attached a pic so you can see what I mean. I also make sure to clean the tip often with a brass sponge.

Could the soldering machine be faulty or is this common? I'd prefer just swapping it out if this uncommon rather than troubleshooting since it's brand new. I would really appreciate any help.

Thanks!

[duck_arse]

welcome to the forum.

from what I can see, your iron looks perfectly normal. stick with the tin/lead solder until you've mastered the process - many of us still don't use lead free. the only part of the tip you use for soldering is the end, where it's shiny and tinned. the colour of the rest of the iron is of no concern - unless the tip starts blacking and won't heat/melt the solder properly. maybe post some solder side photos of one of your boards.

[mth5044]

Looks find to me too, but your comment about it melting wire?? Are you talking about the insulation, or the actual wire?

[anotherjim]

Yes, you can expect the barrel of the iron to oxidise.
What can go wrong is the flux used. Non-corrosive fluxes only for electrical work. Usually, the solder wire itself has an appropriate flux loaded inside and it's possible to never need to apply a flux separately, although it can ease tinning of many wire ends.
I think it's fair to say that Rosin cored leaded solder is what most of us use.

[Kevaus]

welcome to the forum.

from what I can see, your iron looks perfectly normal. stick with the tin/lead solder until you've mastered the process - many of us still don't use lead free. the only part of the tip you use for soldering is the end, where it's shiny and tinned. the colour of the rest of the iron is of no concern - unless the tip starts blacking and won't heat/melt the solder properly. maybe post some solder side photos of one of your boards.

Quote
Yes, you can expect the barrel of the iron to oxidise.
What can go wrong is the flux used. Non-corrosive fluxes only for electrical work. Usually, the solder wire itself has an appropriate flux loaded inside and it's possible to never need to apply a flux separately, although it can ease tinning of many wire ends.
I think it's fair to say that Rosin cored leaded solder is what most of us use.


Thanks for the comments guys  That's good to know, I just thought the discolouring was a little strange since I only used it a couple of times for a max of 20mins. I haven't soldered any boards yet, just guitar cables but I'll be starting my first pedal starter pack tonight.

[Kevaus]

Looks find to me too, but your comment about it melting wire?? Are you talking about the insulation, or the actual wire?

Ok cool. Sorry if I wasn't clear, I meant the soldering wire would melt off when I'll place it on the bottom part of the tip.

[Kevaus]

Looks find to me too, but your comment about it melting wire?? Are you talking about the insulation, or the actual wire?

Ok cool. Sorry if I wasn't clear, I meant that the soldering wire would melt off.

[mth5044]

Looks find to me too, but your comment about it melting wire?? Are you talking about the insulation, or the actual wire?

Ok cool. Sorry if I wasn't clear, I meant the soldering wire would melt off when I'll place it on the bottom part of the tip.

You should be able to slice through the solder wire like budduh.

[patrick398]

You should be able to slice through the solder wire like budduh.

Like Buddha? He likes effects with all the mods and features...he asked me to make him one with everything.

Taxi! 

[PRR]

> the soldering wire would melt off when I'll place it on the bottom part of the tip.

The heater is in the larger body. This surface tends to be the hottest part of the iron. It oxidizes fast, and we don't care because we don't solder there.

Yes, until the body oxide gets thick it will melt *solder* instantly. (Should not melt copper!)

All my old irons, the last 3/16" or so are fresh "tin" and the rest gets to look like the backside of a snowplow in Maine, heavy "rust".

This iron has a bigger "tin" zone and more rust than my snowplow.

[amptramp]

> the soldering wire would melt off when I'll place it on the bottom part of the tip.

The heater is in the larger body. This surface tends to be the hottest part of the iron. It oxidizes fast, and we don't care because we don't solder there.

Yes, until the body oxide gets thick it will melt *solder* instantly. (Should not melt copper!)

All my old irons, the last 3/16" or so are fresh "tin" and the rest gets to look like the backside of a snowplow in Maine, heavy "rust".

This iron has a bigger "tin" zone and more rust than my snowplow.

Love that iron!  What wattage is it?  The only iron I have like it is an Esico Jumior 100 watt unit.  Ideal for soldering braid to steel chassis.

[bluebunny]

Love that iron!  What wattage is it?  The only iron I have like it is an Esico Jumior 100 watt unit.  Ideal for soldering braid to steel chassis.

I think that's the one Paul uses to solder tractors to railway bridges...

Or SMD.   

My dad had a huge iron - at least a foot long, wooden handle.  I never saw him use it.  Had a chisel tip bigger than any screwdriver I'd ever seen.      But Paul's looks cooler.      Makes my almost-forty year-old Antex look kinda puny... 

[EBK]

Love that iron!  What wattage is it?  The only iron I have like it is an Esico Jumior 100 watt unit.  Ideal for soldering braid to steel chassis.

I think that's the one Paul uses to solder tractors to railway bridges...

Or SMD.   

I think it's a waffle iron.  You can tell by the type of cord.  Must be from the time before they figured out how to make more than one indentation at a time.   

[duck_arse]

.... tractors .... railway bridges...

....      But Paul's looks cooler.      .....

ahem. I think it looks cool, cause it's not plugged in.

[EBK]

Just don't mess with Paul while he is soldering.

[PRR]

https://www.vulcanelectric.com/
https://stevenjohnson.com/soldering/data/vulcan-brochure.pdf