BYOC Triboost Problems

[befey]

Well, I wish I had read these responses first.

I tried to touch up the joints on the wiring.

I swapped the caps. It was an enormous pain. Even with a solder sucker I still wasn't able to completely release the components. I had to have someone hold the PCB while I pulled with needlenose pliers and tried to melt the rest of the solder. But I did finally get them out.

Unfortunately, the holes were still too small to get the leads through again. I had to stick them in as far as I could and then I tried to get some solder on.

So they are held in now, but I'm not at all sure I didn't damage them getting them out and back in. And I'm not sure the joints are good.

Anyway, now it works even less than before.
I have low volume on both germanium modes and no sound at all from the other two modes. Still no LED.

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190312_192446.jpg
https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190312_192453.jpg.html

[aelling]

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190310_140112.jpg
https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190310_140333.jpg
https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190310_140415.jpg

Well, I wish I had read these responses first.

I tried to touch up the joints on the wiring.

I swapped the caps. It was an enormous pain. Even with a solder sucker I still wasn't able to completely release the components. I had to have someone hold the PCB while I pulled with needlenose pliers and tried to melt the rest of the solder. But I did finally get them out.

Unfortunately, the holes were still too small to get the leads through again. I had to stick them in as far as I could and then I tried to get some solder on.

So they are held in now, but I'm not at all sure I didn't damage them getting them out and back in. And I'm not sure the joints are good.

Anyway, now it works even less than before.
I have low volume on both germanium modes and no sound at all from the other two modes. Still no LED.

https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190312_192446.jpg
https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/20190312_192453.jpg.html

My guess would be cold solder joints, looking again at the first pics you posted, and every solder joints on the switches & LED look like cold solder joints. Also, don't de-solder components like that as you can rip the trace off the PCB. Learn how to use the solder pump properly.

There is a discussion forum at BYOC where there is a guide to a successful build where there is a lot of good information if you're new to this, like making sure your iron contacts both the component lead AND PCB trace before adding solder, tinning wire, de-soldering components etc..
http://www.byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6401

[bluebunny]

Unfortunately, the holes were still too small to get the leads through again.

Tip: push a cocktail stick through while the solder is molten.  (It won't burn and the solder won't stick to it.)

[befey]

I feel like I'm following all the advice about soldering and desoldering and the joints still aren't coming out right.

I had a friend who is an electronics tech go over my PCB joints and he said they looked good. He didn't check the wiring joints and hasn't seen the capacitor swap.

And desoldering is just brutal. I can't get the components out cleanly and some solder is left plugging the holes that just won't come out. I feel like I'm leaving the soldering iron on way too long as it is. All the guides say it should only take a couple seconds tops. It's taking me 15 seconds or more.

Desoldering the wires is even worse. Stands of wire and clumps of solder stay stuck in the holes and I can't get them loose no matter what I try.

I have braid and the sucker. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

[bluebunny]

I can't get the components out cleanly and some solder is left plugging the holes that just won't come out.

Ahem.

Tip: push a cocktail stick through while the solder is molten.  (It won't burn and the solder won't stick to it.)

I feel like I'm leaving the soldering iron on way too long as it is. All the guides say it should only take a couple seconds tops. It's taking me 15 seconds or more.

Your iron needs to be hotter, or your tip is shot.  Is the temperature adjustable?

[befey]

It's a brand new iron I got to replace the old crappy RadioShack one I had when I tried to build this the first time. It's the $40 Weller one. I've been using it around the middle of the adjustment knob, turned it up higher to desolder some stuff.

Is a %^&*tail stick the same as a toothpick? I think the ones I have seem too thick to go through, but I'll try it.

[PRR]

> a %^&*tail stick

I don't know where the bunny drinks his cocktails.

I say "sewing needle". Solder won't stick to cold steel.

[bluebunny]

Is a cocktail stick the same as a toothpick? I think the ones I have seem too thick to go through, but I'll try it.

This:



We call these cocktail sticks this side of the pond (although you're unlikely these days to find them in a cocktail - it's more likely to be some ocean-clogging piece of garish plastic).  Paul's right: a steel sewing needle works too.  So take your pick (pun intended), depending on whether you're into fancy booze or needlecraft.  My transient soldering workstation is in the kitchen, so the former is closer for me.

[befey]

Ok, thanks for your help. I'm waiting on some new parts. I'm going to take a break from this thing for a week or so and give it a fresh look then.

[duck_arse]

Is a cocktail stick the same as a toothpick? I think the ones I have seem too thick to go through, but I'll try it.

This:



We call these cocktail sticks this side of the pond (although you're unlikely these days to find them in a cocktail - it's more likely to be some ocean-clogging piece of garish plastic).  Paul's right: a steel sewing needle works too.  So take your pick (pun intended), depending on whether you're into fancy booze or needlecraft.  My transient soldering workstation is in the kitchen, so the former is closer for me.

can't get bluebunny's pic to light up my screen, but I know what a toothpick looks like. and if it is too big to poke in a hole, there is nothing stopping you from sanding it down some, maybe p400. careful whittling might do it too. [I sand my toothpicks so's I don't get splinters.]

[befey]

Ok! So I finally got all my tools and replacement components. Swapped those 2 caps and now all 3 boost modes are working.

The only thing that's still not working is the LED. Now it's just always on. I checked continuity on the footswitch, and indeed it seems the pole that the LED is connected to always has continuity with the center no matter which position the switch is on.

So I guess next is to replace the switch.

[befey]

Switch replaced and it's all boxed up and working great! Thanks for your help!

Next up I'm going to breadboard a wooly mammoth.

[idy]

Yeah team.