Need help with converting my Tonebender MKII breadboard to veroboard

[Guava]

Hoping somebody can help me answer my question about how to add a 100R resistor to the Q3 emitter for a MKII on veroboard.

I breadboarded this circuit and it sounds great.  I included the 100R resistor as shown in the schematic I used.  I ran the resistor from the emitter to the lug of the attack knob as shown in the schematic.

I just populated the board using the attached vero layout.  It unfortunately doesn't include the 100R resistor.

I'm a little puzzled about how to add the resistor to the board.  I've done a couple of really basic drawings of the two approaches I'm thinking of (pardon the crude brown resistors with blue leads 😃):

A. Realizing now I don't think this will work because I have the 100R resistor running to the same track as the 10nF, 470R, and 8.2K.  Should it run to ground instead?

B. Here the 100R resistor just runs between the emitter and attack pot without going anywhere else.

I'm a little lost here and obviously bad at converting schematics to vero.  Would somebody knowledgeable in this area be willing to help me out?  Thank you!

[MaxPower]

Option B is correct. You just need to make a cut between the legs/pins of the 100 ohm resistor. Then solder one leg of the resistor on each side of the cut. Probably best not to overlap any components, and stay to the right of the 100k resistor (the one that goes back to the base of q2).

[Guava]

Ok great! Thank you!

[Electric Warrior]

Here is how it was done:



They would only put the 100Ω into circuit when there were problems with oscillation. Simply increasing the power filter cap to 50µF (as they did later on) is a better solution for the problem.

[Guava]

So if I have a board cut to size for the layout I posted (shorter than the one you have here), as long as it doesn't oscillate I should be able to get away without using the 100R?  Will it affect the tone I had on my breadboard?  It sounded DAMN good so I don't want to rock the boat 😃. Worst case, if I need it, could I run it under the board like in my B drawing with a trace cut between the leads?

[Electric Warrior]

So if I have a board cut to size for the layout I posted (shorter than the one you have here), as long as it doesn't oscillate I should be able to get away without using the 100R?  Will it affect the tone I had on my breadboard?  It sounded DAMN good so I don't want to rock the boat 😃. Worst case, if I need it, could I run it under the board like in my B drawing with a trace cut between the leads?

Sure, many of the vintage units that have the 100Ω never had it connected. It limits the range of the attack knob and they didn't put it into circuit unless it was necessary. Eventually the 100Ω was dropped and they started piggybacking a second 25µF onto the one that was already installed on the board when there was a problem.

I don't think dropping the 100Ω will make much of a difference tone wise..

[Guava]

So if I have a board cut to size for the layout I posted (shorter than the one you have here), as long as it doesn't oscillate I should be able to get away without using the 100R?  Will it affect the tone I had on my breadboard?  It sounded DAMN good so I don't want to rock the boat 😃. Worst case, if I need it, could I run it under the board like in my B drawing with a trace cut between the leads?

Sure, many of the vintage units that have the 100Ω never had it connected. It limits the range of the attack knob and they didn't put it into circuit unless it was necessary. Eventually the 100Ω was dropped and they started piggybacking a second 25µF onto the one that was already installed on the board when there was a problem.

I don't think dropping the 100Ω will make much of a difference tone wise..

Sounds good, thanks for the help!  BTW I've been able to put this pedal together because of your encyclopedic Tonebender knowledge and extensive forum contributions—very grateful for what you've shared man!