First build... Bazz Fuss not working

[oinsane]

Hi, I'm trying to build  my first pedal: the Bazz Fuss.
I followed this schematics with no changes.







And this Is the result














But unfortunately the pedal doesn't work in the right way:
When the pedal is off I can hear the clean guitar sound. When the pedal is on I still hear the clean sound instead of the fuzz, and the knob works as a volume one. It seems to be a circuit problem but i can't figure it out.
I hope someone could help me.

Thanks

(Sorry for my english, it's not my first language)

[patrick398]

Welcome to the forum!

First of all your english is fantastic!
It looks like there's a few potential problems with your build so best to work through them one at a time.
It is always a good idea to test the circuit board before you put it in a box and wire the switch and jacks. By doing this you can confirm the actual circuit is working and then when it comes to boxing it you know if it doesn't work the problem is most likely in the switch/jacks wiring.

The soldering doesn't look the best to be honest. A few burnt wires and possible cold solder joints. There are also a few potential solder bridges on the copper side of your board (a small piece of solder which connects two rows of vero board that shouldn't be connected)

Also it looks like you are using a metal DC jack. We usually use plastic ones when building in aluminium enclosures as they are electrically insulated from the aluminium box which is 'ground'.

It's worth addressing these problems before looking at what might be wrong with the circuit itself.

Hope that helps

[patrick398]

Also just noticed that the vero board itself looks quite cracked meaning the rows which are supposed to have continuity across their length may not

[duck_arse]

also welcome.

I'd say your vero board is toast, from all those cracks visible in the phenolic, there can/will be hairline cracks in the copper traces where you don't want them, can't find them. it is best to clamp the board flat and use a hacksaw [in my opinion] to cut boards, then sand the edges smooth.

but! under your C1 and your R1 should be a cut in the track, not as visible as it should be in the layout diagram. and what patrick said, of course.

what part number is your transistor, please? and, that large grey/blue capacitor, what is the marking on that, "474 J 100"? that would be a 470nF, not a 4u7 cap.

[bettsaj]

After looking at those photos (please don't take this the wrong way), but I would take everything out of the box. desolder all the wiring and throw it away, change the DC socket to a plastic one, clean up all the jack terminals with a solder sucker or similar, and test the circuit out of the box with fresh wiring.

It might be a good idea to take a scrap piece of vero board and practice soldering a few bits and pieces to it, before committing yourself to soldering the circuit board.

[bettsaj]

that large grey/blue capacitor, what is the marking on that, "474 J 100"? that would be a 470nF, not a 4u7 cap.

I just noticed that as well as I started to go through the BoM... Wrong cap. The resistor should be Brown Black Black Red Red

[duck_arse]

that large grey/blue capacitor, what is the marking on that, "474 J 100"? that would be a 470nF, not a 4u7 cap.

I just noticed that as well as I started to go through the BoM... Wrong cap. The resistor should be Brown Black Black Red Red

brown-black-black-red-brown, maybe, for a 10,000 1%?

[bettsaj]

brown-black-black-red-brown, maybe, for a 10,000 1%?

Either, or..... Looks like a large 1/2w resistor too

[oinsane]

First of all, thank you all for answering!
Yes, the veroboard is cracked, I didn't cut it well 
The transistor is Q1, MPSA13... and you're also right about the capacitor, the marking is 474J100, so it's a 0.47uF 
The resistor is 10k Omh 1/4W 1%

I'll follow your advice and start all over again, with a plastic DC socket, right capacitor, a well cut veroboard and better soldering!
Now i'm even more motivated than before 

Thank you again!

[bettsaj]

No problem.... let us know how you get on

[antonis]

I'll start all over again a well cut veroboard..

With also clear cuts under R1 & C1..

P.S. Welcome, of course..

[patrick398]

it is best to clamp the board flat and use a hacksaw [in my opinion] to cut boards, then sand the edges smooth.

I've never really had any problem with using a scalpel (exacto knife) and a ruler to score the board, a good number of times, and then snapping it over the edge of the desk/bench. Each to their own of course.

Worth mentioning to the OP also that a good method of 'cutting' the tracks is to use a 3 or 4mm drill bit between your fingers. Get's the job done in no time.

[smallbearelec]

You have gotten some good advice from other people. Here's mine: Before you commit to solder again, learn to use a breadboard.

http://diy.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/Breadboarding/BreadboardIntro.htm

You will need to do this in any case if you continue building, so I suggest backing up now. I don't have a breadboard tutorial for the Bazz Fuzz. However, the Ursa Minor is similar and sounds way better:

http://diy.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BreadboardUrsaMinor/BreadboardUrsaMinor.htm

This article:

http://diy.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

is my own take on things that other members have also mentioned, like testing without a stomp switch to start.

Happy Noise-Making!