Ttone DIY delay pedal: bad sound

[baliantas]

Hello,

New here! I was hoping anyone could help me out with the following problem:

I've bought a "Ttone DIY delay kit" on Amazon, with a PT2399 chip, with rudimentary installation instructions (no schematic).
https://www.amazon.com/TTONE-Delay-Analog-Pedal-1590B/dp/B01J2V67ZY?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_8990678011

I've managed to assemble it, though it took me some time/effort to make the (hopefully correct) dc/io jack connections. Now, when I plug it in, it makes a harsh, distorted sound only when you strum hard on the strings at full volume. (Yes, I copied that from the sticky, as it is the exact problem I'm having.)

I'm a beginner, and this is only my second pedal, so maybe I overlooked something really basic?
(My first pedal was a boost pedal kit, bought from Musikding.de)

Some details:
- parts have the correct values, polarities should be fine
- my soldering skills are not great, but the backside of the board looks pretty clean to me
- when not activated, the clean sound comes through nice and clean (with and without power connection)
- I'm not an expert on electronics, but I do know how to follow instructions closely   :-)

[GibsonGM]

Welcome to the forum!  Know what would help more?  A pic of the BACK of the board, showing your solder joints!!

It could be a missed joint, or a 'cold solder joint' (poor contact), or something entirely different.  But a pic might help narrow it down.

Til then, go back over every single part, its value, and orientation - usually (always? ha ha) it is OUR error that causes the problem!   

[baliantas]

Back of the PCB.



I indicated the part where there's an unintended connection, but I don't think it matters because the connection is there anyway...
I checked the orientations and they should be fine, there's only seven capacitators (plus two ICs, and one led).
I did not check the orientation of the IC mounts. (This should not matter, unless I'm severely mistaken...)

As for the cold solder joints: that's always possible, but it seems unlikely... Is there any way to check, without desoldering everything?

[PRR]

> cold solder joints...any way to check, without desoldering everything?

Solder joints are inspected BY EYE.

If it LOOKS good, 99.44% it IS good.

To my eye: some of your joints seem to be solder-stuck on the pad but not on the lead. Many others are too blobby to tell. If you come to my house I'll show you good joints. I'm sure you can find webpages or youtoobe videos on good soldering.

[ElectricDruid]

+1 agree with PRR. Your soldering doesn't yet look totally reliable. I'd suggest reheating any joints that look suspicious or need tidying up (maybe a third of them?) and once you've got the joints looking good, you could trim the leads a bit shorter too.

[bluebunny]

If you can, turn up the temperature of your iron.  It may seem counter-intuitive when you're starting out, since you might think you'll toast everything you touch.  But it means the solder will flow more reliably, and (importantly) more quickly - with practice, you'll be in and out before you have a chance to cook anything, and your joints will be gorgeous. 

[baliantas]

Thanks for all the replies!

I tidied up (about 90% of the joints). Now I get pink noise when the pedal is plugged in... 
The temperature of the soldering iron cannot be changed. Its power is fixed at 60W.

I will consider this project to have been a learning experience, and I'll try again with a similar delay kit soon: the Bluelay (https://www.musikding.de/delay_3)

I'll keep checking this thread, so if anyone has further suggestions, I'll gladly accept them!

Cheers

[PRR]

60 watt dumb iron is quite big for pedals. I used 45W generally including large lugs in tube gear. A too-hot iron can heat half the joint and melt a lot of solder without heating the other half of the joint properly. I'd be thinking 25W-30W size.

Also a dumb 60W would probably have a large conical tip? DON'T use conical! You can't get great thermal contact on a curved surface. You want screwdriver or wedge, flat sides. (I think conical tips are just cheapest, not useful except wood-burning your name on boards.)

If you buy from Musikding: their 30W "loetkolb" is an OK power, has the conical tip I hate, but is only 5 clams so not a big investment. Young boys like "soldering stations" and while Musikding's "loestatMLS48" is clearly bottom of the field, it may be worth 12 clams more than the 5-clam tool. There's probably better products in your shopping area.

[PRR]

EVblog discussion on soldering stations in Germany; some clowns in that thread.

Wide selection from a German store but I don't like the looks of the 60EUR irons, and I hate to suggest paying more.

_I_ have always liked Weller, an old US brand. Yes, they may have gone downhill over the decades. But here is an Amazon.de listing for the budget Weller WLC100, 40 smackers.

[baliantas]

60 watt dumb iron is quite big for pedals. I used 45W generally including large lugs in tube gear. A too-hot iron can heat half the joint and melt a lot of solder without heating the other half of the joint properly. I'd be thinking 25W-30W size.

Thank you, very useful! I'm from Belgium, which means that amazon.fr is my cheapest option. I'd probably settle for the following:
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07GXM7LYK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AMFTWQ86LITJY&psc=1

When I started working on my first DIY project, I thought it would be a one-off, so any old soldering iron was fine.
But now, I know I'm addicted, so I need better gear...   

[vigilante397]

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07GXM7LYK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AMFTWQ86LITJY&psc=1

Looks great, I think it will work out just fine.

_I_ have always liked Weller, an old US brand

My first real iron was a Weller WESD-51. I loved it, and I still have it, but unfortunately I beat the hell out of it when I was in school and it needs a $30 replacement part I can't be bothered to order

[duck_arse]

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07GXM7LYK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AMFTWQ86LITJY&psc=1

Looks great, I think it will work out just fine.

_I_ have always liked Weller, an old US brand

My first real iron was a Weller WESD-51. I loved it, and I still have it, but unfortunately I beat the hell out of it when I was in school and it needs a $30 replacement part I can't be bothered to order

wtcpn, 50$ part, same-ish story here.

what is the going exchange rate clams >> smackers >> euros these days?

[ElectricDruid]

what is the going exchange rate clams >> smackers >> euros these days?

Oh, that's easy! It's worse >> worse >> worse!!

[duck_arse]

what is the going exchange rate clams >> smackers >> euros these days?

Oh, that's easy! It's worse >> worse >> worse!!

is that with or without the tariffs?