fOXX Tone Machine - Wow!

[duck_arse]

tell him about Tycho's nose, Mark .....

That's one for the "jokes" thread...

    My 16th century Danish astronomer's Hyperflange build isn't finished yet!

    How does he solder, then?

    XXXX is awful!

(Fill in the blanks please, Mr H.)

I don't get it.

[Mark Hammer]

tell him about Tycho's nose, Mark .....

That's one for the "jokes" thread...

    My 16th century Danish astronomer's xxx xx xxxx!

    How does he xxxxx, then?

    Xxxxing awful!

(Fill in the blanks please, Mr H.)

Much too dangerous. I have a pre-existing health condition.

[bluebunny]

I don't get it.

Took me a while, but I (eventually) saw what you did there.   

[duck_arse]

I don't get it.

Took me a while, but I (eventually) saw what you did there.   

I, also, took a while to see what I'd done. turns out I'd confused your Mr H. as being aimed at me. didn't cotten that you wouldn't have known my surname was also initialled with H.

[bluebunny]

I, also, took a while to see what I'd done. turns out I'd confused your Mr H. as being aimed at me. didn't cotten that you wouldn't have known my surname was also initialled with H.

Wot?  Duck Harse??   

[willienillie]

He's a famous doctor!

[Ginsly]

While cancelling one of the complementary signals from Q2 cancels the octaving effect, it also  cancels a half-wave of the signal.  So what I like to do is use a SPDT switch - toggle or stomp -  to select between having normal octaving, and simultaneously lifting the D1 connection and bridging/shunting D2, such that the entire signal passes, rather than chopping off half of it.

This is almost EXACTLY what I'm trying to do in a stripboard build of the FTM. I'm using this layout, and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to alter it: https://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2019/06/foxx-tone-machine.html

What I'd really love is to do what Aion Effects does - use an on/off/on toggle to go between Octave/Standard No-Octave/"Hammer" No-Octave: https://aionfx.com/project/vulcan-octave-fuzz/

I also plan on adding a transistor bias control and an overall voltage cut switch, so I'm really just trying to complicate my life and destroy this thing, looks like! Ha... I think I have those two controls sorted, but I'm really, really hoping to figure out how to integrate a 3-mode Octave switch.

I'd be HUGELY appreciative of any advice. I'm about 6 months into building and although I'm learning quickly I still need a helping hand.

[Mark Hammer]

Here's a quick diagram of what to do (thanks to Bean for the original drawing, that I've retouched).  One normally sees a switch that connects pins 2 and 3 to produce octaving, or disconnects them to cancel the complementary half-wave that would lead to two humps instead of one.

A 3-way on-off-on SPDT switch would be wired such that the common and one side lug (i.e., "2" and "3") are connected as usual.  In the middle toggle position, nothing is connected to lug 2 - the "common" - so octaving is cancelled.  In the other side position of the toggle, though, the common is connected to "1", effectively bridging that diode,thuds permitting the entire wave form to pass through, instead of having half chopped off by D2.

Depending on the settings, and the diodes used, the effect of bridging/unbridging that diode will vary.  The difference between normal no-octave and bridged D2 will be greatest when using silicon diodes, lesser with germanium, and negligible if using Schottky type.  Your choice.

[Ginsly]

A 3-way on-off-on SPDT switch would be wired such that the common and one side lug (i.e., "2" and "3") are connected as usual.  In the middle toggle position, nothing is connected to lug 2 - the "common" - so octaving is cancelled.  In the other side position of the toggle, though, the common is connected to "1", effectively bridging that diode,thuds permitting the entire wave form to pass through, instead of having half chopped off by D2.

Mark, THANK you so much!! I really, truly appreciate your help, it makes a big difference. I had the feeling it wasn't terribly difficult, but I also wasn't quite sure what needed modifying. I'm using this layout (below) for the time being, and I'm not sure if/how the actual layout needs to be changed.
EDIT: I mistakenly mentioned the added Tone switch in this reply- sorry to be confusing! The Octave switch in the below layout only uses two lugs, as usual- I'm still not sure quite where to put that third lug connection...

[duck_arse]

the two green tracks are the switch normally opens. the blue track is the switch common.

[Ginsly]

the two green tracks are the switch normally opens. the blue track is the switch common.

Gotcha, thanks much!! I can see it now, and that makes sense.

In this situation, it looks like I'd connect the wire from Octave switch lug 3 directly to the same pad as D1's negative lead? There are also a couple open pads in that area (under resistors), not sure if it matters where I place the 3rd switch lug on that little green strip...