Drilling aluminium sheet

Started by BluffChill, February 16, 2020, 02:58:36 PM

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duck_arse

my tapered reamer leaves a burr which stops it further reaming, hence the need for a decent de-burrrr toool.
Katy who? what footie?

antonis

#21
Why not just use a larger twist drill bit for burrs removal..??
(I always used to deburr holes for mounting TO-3 or similar package transistors on custom made aluminium coolribs just by finger twisting..)
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amptramp

Quote from: antonis on February 20, 2020, 06:08:03 AM
Why not just use a larger twist drill bit for burrs removal..??
(I always used to deburr holes for mounting TO-3 or similar package transistors on custom made aluminium coolribs just by finger twisting..)

This is what I do most of the time.  Larger diameter twist drills are always there when you have the drill kit out anyway.

vigilante397

I use a CNC machine with a flat end mill to mill all of my holes so I never have any burrs :P
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duck_arse

often the deburrerrr drill is too long to fit inside one of my bendies to do inside jack holes. and I'm sick of the cut fingers and the messed-up holes/panels, esp when the drill skids. [also, mostly steel.]
Katy who? what footie?

italianguy63

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Kipper4

D.A. Have you seen those tap (faucets for those over the pond) readers.

Tap reseating tool. Apparently .......


https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-tap-reseating-tool/79688?tc=VA3&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0aXY6_Xi5wIVS7TtCh0WgAmxEAQYAyABEgIXR_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Been using these in plumbing jobs forever and never got the right name. Ya live 'n' learn.

Might whittle down the thick of the burr and finish off with a file?

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Rich
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duck_arse

I have a tap reseater, actually. never thought to abuse it in this way, but it would still leave the jack hole insides untouched.
Katy who? what footie?

PRR

#28
> it would still leave the jack hole insides untouched.

I thought the point was that you could assemble it with the cutter INSIDE and pull to shave.


But I'd have to dig for mine and that would be work.

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duck_arse

#29
both those thoughts occured to me today, I can't remember where I need to dig, tho.

later that same night .... found! two minor problems - the 11.5/16mm dia shaft won't pass thru the 9mm jack hole - and - the cutter won't reverse because the cutting faces extend into and block the thread.

Katy who? what footie?

PRR

Looks like a 20-buck tool. Maybe the 2-buck tool is more our size and slop?
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Rob Strand

#31
Quoteoften the deburrerrr drill is too long to fit inside one of my bendies to do inside jack holes. and I'm sick of the cut fingers and the messed-up holes/panels, esp when the drill skids. [also, mostly steel.]
I've used an old countersink bit in the past.  They are short and fit into small spaces.
More often than not I just use a large drill bit with a light touch.   It doesn't do a professional job though and drill bits can catch.   

Professional stuff is often done with a punch.   An example where this is required over drilling is the old D9 and D25  connector cut-outs.
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According to the water analogy of electricity, transistor leakage is caused by holes.

BluffChill

Thanks all for your suggestions - I bought one of those twizzly deburring tools and it works great.
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duck_arse

mine has arrived, but I haven't drilled any holes since. funny thing - that which arrived looks as though it is the very unit shown in catalogues I was reading back near 40 years ago.
Katy who? what footie?

davent

Quote from: duck_arse on March 14, 2020, 09:06:40 AM
mine has arrived, but I haven't drilled any holes since. funny thing - that which arrived looks as though it is the very unit shown in catalogues I was reading back near 40 years ago.

If it works don't fix it.
dave
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